Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Has anyone made images on D, E or F speed dental film?
I know it is only 30x40mm, but I wondered what the effective speed was.
I am aware of the differences between the speed ratings: F being 50% faster than D and 25% faster than E.

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Originally Posted by SergeiR

Foma / Arista are extemely prone to it. Apparently its something about chemistry/water used.

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Not really. The emulsion is very soft when it's wet but doesn't produce pinholes that I've ever seen. Just handle with due care until it dries. Once dry it's just like any other film. I do use the normal amount of hardener in my rapid fix, however. I know many people use non-hardening fix for both film and paper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and 100% recycled electrons - because I care.

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Originally Posted by barnacle

I've just ordered a box of 12.7x30.5 Typon DV-G from Bema, for delivery in Berlin. I'll pick it up in a month or so, the next time I get over there.

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I have in use the Typon Tyco 30x40 and 13x18 cm. It works fine.
It is of course an Agfa belgium production.
Typon cuts and configs the film in Sitzerland, I was told.

Speaking with Typon, they told me that they will quit the production of their blue sensitive film this or next year.
But they continue with green sensitive film..

Ritchie

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Originally Posted by koraks

...not at all with IR.

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Why would this be?

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Originally Posted by senderoaburrido

Why would this be?

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It's only sensitive to blue or blue and green light, it is virtually insensitive to red, and IR has an even longer wavelength. Hence, IR sensitivity will be at best equal to sensitivity to red light (i.e. nearly not at all) and likely even less.

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Originally Posted by Roger Cole

Not really. The emulsion is very soft when it's wet but doesn't produce pinholes that I've ever seen. Just handle with due care until it dries. Once dry it's just like any other film. I do use the normal amount of hardener in my rapid fix, however. I know many people use non-hardening fix for both film and paper..

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eh?

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Originally Posted by plaubel

I have in use the Typon Tyco 30x40 and 13x18 cm. It works fine.
It is of course an Agfa belgium production.
Typon cuts and configs the film in Sitzerland, I was told.

Speaking with Typon, they told me that they will quit the production of their blue sensitive film this or next year.
But they continue with green sensitive film..

Ritchie

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Thanks Ritchie. It was not only cheapest in the list but it came in a handy size, and having no previous experience... seemed like a good bet.

One thing - is it double sided, and if so, what do you do about it? I have read of stripping one side, but have no great idea about what this entails.

Neil

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Originally Posted by barnacle

Thanks Ritchie. It was not only cheapest in the list but it came in a handy size, and having no previous experience... seemed like a good bet.

One thing - is it double sided, and if so, what do you do about it? I have read of stripping one side, but have no great idea about what this entails.

Neil

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See this post in the current thread.

Barnacle: I wouldn't worry about stripping until we have developing technique worked out and have negatives that have a normal contrast you would see in a conventional camera film. I am going to see how the scanned X-ray film looks up against some conventional film and proceed from there.

Does anyone have personal experience with long term storage of (unexposed) x-ray film in the freezer?


Also, that's a good summation Sergei:

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Originally Posted by SergeiR

So here is short summary on Xray choice/shooting/development from me. Just because.

http://sergeirodionov.com/x-ray-film-photography

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