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Sure would be nice if one of the moderators would create a sticky post with an x-ray film FAQ. I see the same questions & answers over & over again in this thread: Don't process double-sided in a Jobo or BTZS tubes, Do/do not remove back emulsion, how do I remove back emulsion, where can I buy x-ray film, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by mario errico
Any way we can make that happen?
I know it's been over a year since you posted this, but did you take notes? What was your dilution? Temperature? How long to develop? I tray-developed my 1st test shots of Ektascan yesterday in 1:1:100 Pyrocat-HD at 71.5ºF and was shocked at how short the develpment time was (~3 minutes)!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
FWIW and I'm still testing... So far, I think I'm pretty close with Pyrocat-HD 1:1:150 at 75F for about 10 - 10 1/2 mins. I develop single-sheet at a time in trays with a n/s/e/w agitation for the first minute, followed by one single n/s/e/w rotation each minute thereafter. The reason I refer to the time as "about" is because I develop by inspection using a red LED light. Therefore, total time is more an approximation.Quote:
Originally Posted by seezee
Hope this helps.
Old post, I know. But: I was under the impression the Ektascan was a blue sensitive film, so I must have misread the description at ZZ Medical. Can anyone confirm Premortho's above statement? If I wanted to get a more 'blue x-ray/wet plate' look, what color filter would I need to use? Blue, presumably?Quote:
Originally Posted by premortho
I haven't used any of the variations--blue or green sensitive, green latitude--of film as sold by CXS Online, for example, but having shot several sheets of Ektascan (zzmedical.com) during testing, I believe premortho's statement to be true; it must be the most orthochromatic of any x-ray film as it looks darn close to normal panchromatic film.
I'm sure it will; thank you.Quote:
Hope this helps.
I have just completed and started to test my film holder.
The 18x24 film shet stays not completely flat, but shows an arch which in the center comes at about 5 mm from the plastic, and the situation does not change even after many trials to keep the film flat and in tension.
Probably a device including some elasticity in the clamps could solve the problem, but for the moment I decided to live with it, unless the film will touch the plastic plate when immersed in water in the following tests.
So I put my device in the 20x30 cm pyrex tray and started to add water to see the behaviour of the film.
The film starts to be covered by the solution when tilted at 600 ml, but a good immersion is obtained with a total volume of 1 liter.
I withdrew the device and checked that the film was not touching the plastc, and this is for me a positive test and the device is now ready to be tested under operating condition, with the developer.
About this, I have read somewhere that for this film size about 6 ml of HC110 syrup is necesary.
I have also read that some b/w films were developed in HC110 syrup dilution of 1:250 and 45 minutes of development.
I would like to try a 1:100 dilution (10ml to 1 liter) and 20 minutes of development, or a 1:200 for one hour.
What do you think?
In my former tests I got reasonable results with 1:50 dilution and 10 minutes developement.
At work so going from memory... for tray development (flat-bottomed), I use 5ml of both A and B solutions, in one litre of water at 21C. EI was 80. I believe the development time was 8 minutes... I always give constant agitation for the first 30 seconds, then about 5 sec every minute (lifting tray north/south, east/west). This time worked well for carbon transfer printing. For non-alt processes, the time would probably be around 6-6:30, but that's only a guess.Quote:
I know it's been over a year since you posted this, but did you take notes? What was your dilution? Temperature? How long to develop? I tray-developed my 1st test shots of Ektascan yesterday in 1:1:100 Pyrocat-HD at 71.5ºF and was shocked at how short the develpment time was (~3 minutes)!
I love the sharpness of this film, but I prefer green latitude's look.
Please find here some quick and bad photo of my frame, which however give a clear idea of the device.
In the first of themAttachment 141898 you see a prospectic view of it, while in the second Attachment 141899 you see a detail of the clamp, and you can notice the arcuate surface of the fim.
The third image shows a view from top.Attachment 141900
I hope it could interest someone.
Thanks for the attention.
Is anybody using Xray film for gum printing?