I've used D-76 with green sensitive xray film, it works just fine. Xray film is easily scratched, though, so handle with kid gloves, or perhaps baggies.
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I've used D-76 with green sensitive xray film, it works just fine. Xray film is easily scratched, though, so handle with kid gloves, or perhaps baggies.
Do you have a link?Quote:
i just found a chinese site that has 8x10 for .17 a sheet...
Do anybody know any place to make orders about x-ray films here in Europe?
Two quick 8x10 self portraits I did with Fuji 100NIF Xray last night.
http://img.kpraslowicz.com/share/self-port-diafine.jpg
Exposed at 100ISO, developed in Diafine
http://img.kpraslowicz.com/share/self-port-hc110.jpg
Exposed at 100ISO, developed in HC-110
These look pretty good. There seems to be a number of types of 100 NIF emulsions.
Are any of these designations on the film? (No, I don't know what they mean, I just found them with Google.)
AX(Q-AX)
MG-SR(G-S)
C Type (Q-CT)
He-Ne Laser Image Film
LP-670T (QHN-670T)
Mammography Film
CM-H (Q-CMH)
http://www.zzmedical.com/zencart/8x1...ilm-p-384.html T2 Blue RX is what I'm using.
I have used the Fuji blue x ray film the higher speed stuff (Fuji RX Full Speed Blue Film)and shot it at 800 then developed it in Diafine with Saran wrap in the bottom of the trays to prevent scratches, with excellent results. I tried shooting it at 200 its supposed speed and developing with HC110 mixture B and it came out like crap. Too too dark. Has anyone tried this with Hc110 and got good results?
I always found that B was too "hot" for [forTriX]
Dilute it more if you can't cut development time.
"its supposed speed"- is a starting point, not a standard
Strip or don't strip, but if it's not boiler plate [assuming "too dark" means a dense neg, not a print from a very thin neg] try a print to see what you really have