Say what?? I've never heard of anyone shooting it at 400. I shoot it at anywhere from 50 to 100, depending on developer and dilution. By the way, Ektascan is lovely in pyrocat-hd, and OA. EI 80 for me.Quote:
400 for "green" labeled x-ray films,
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Say what?? I've never heard of anyone shooting it at 400. I shoot it at anywhere from 50 to 100, depending on developer and dilution. By the way, Ektascan is lovely in pyrocat-hd, and OA. EI 80 for me.Quote:
400 for "green" labeled x-ray films,
It's possible this is its sensitivity to X-ray radiation and he was assuming the translation was the same for natural light, but I'll have to ask him to confirm that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Don't take this the wrong way but perhaps you can try only advising people with information you personally are familiar with. What an x-ray technician (read: not a photographer) has to say about the technical details of this film for x-ray usage is obviously of little use to folks shooting this film in their cameras. Your choice of film, personal EI, and developer dilutions/time is great, and a valuable resource. Others can fill in with their experience. Or mention that reading the thread from the start is a good way to begin. That's what I did.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
You are doing a disservice to new members giving them faulty advice taken second hand from someone about a non-photographic (normal photographic that is) usage of the materials.
I am going to defend Stone here. I shoot my Fuji Green Xray film at iso 400 in sunlight. I also use a no 8 filter with it. Others may differ but I like my results.
Don't misconstrue, there is no need to "defend" anyone. The issue is not what you do or like, but instead what you know and actually practice, rather than spouting second- or third-hand advice from a dubious source.
Details like developer/dilutions/temperatures would be helpful, as well as the specific films in question. I always try to include that I have shot nothing but Fuji HR-T specifically, so I have no comment on any other brand or make. Of course samples of images would be another great resource, which is why this is a great thread for learning.
There are plenty of variables that could indeed account for such a varied range of EI's - such as filters, contrast ranges, meter inconsistencies, etc. - so there are of course no hard and fast rules!
Didn't we go through all of this, exactly, a couple of pages ago, and it turned out that 400 was a speed based on some x-ray only system, similar to how paper has a "speed" that's not related to film? I thought this was all decided already......
Film - Fuji Super HRt Green film 8x10
Lens - Fuji 360 mm f10 @ f22
Camera - Shen Hao FCL 810A
Developer - Rodinal 1:100
Developed in Jobo at 68 deg F
Meter - Pentax Digital Spotmeter
Scanned on Epson v700. No post-processing
Shot at iso 100
http://nanadadzie.com/darkroom/XrayT...16-iso100a.jpg
Shot at iso 200
http://nanadadzie.com/darkroom/XrayT...17-iso200a.jpg
Shot at iso 400
http://nanadadzie.com/darkroom/XrayT...18-iso400a.jpg
I then tried orange and yellow filters to bring out the clouds. Finally settled on the no 8 yellow filter at iso 400.
For my 14x20 work, this is the workflow that works for me.
As stated by Corran above, each person needs to do their homework and find the iso or Ei that works for them.
"Don't take this the wrong way" but half the things I've seen you give advice on, you don't actually have any experience with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran
Asking someone who knows about the film (like a technician) gives you a lot more information than asking someone who just reads and regurgitates information.
Furthermore I qualified the whole thing by saying its best to do your own tests.
And finally...Get off my back man, every time I post anything you come along and have something negative to say about it, back off, it's rude and unnecessary. If you don't like what I say, don't read it, put me on ignore, whatever you're angry about in your own life, stop using me as a target.
Nope. Untrue. I never do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
No I don't. Let me remind you that you have 1500 more posts than I in less membership time, so clearly I don't do that at all. If you happen to be spouting something that I think is wrong, I will respond. That has nothing to do with you per se, but the advice given or whatever. Get over it man, I have no ill will or animosity here. I am merely pointing out that you should probably stop posting irrelevant and generally unhelpful advice when you have no actual experience or knowledge to back it up with.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
I'm not angry at all. Perhaps you are reading all too much into my posts. Also, I think you need to grow up a bit and stop taking everything personally. Unfortunately you've garnered yourself a fair bit of negativity here because you seem to think you know everything about everything. It doesn't matter if you put a disclaimer at the bottom of your posts that basically negates everything you just said.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
Look, let me be clear:
1) I don't dislike you
2) I'm not angry
3) You should probably post less and shoot more
4) You should probably not post irrelevant second-hand information
That's it. If you have anything else to say to me that is further off-topic, PM me, though I won't guarantee I have time to spar with you there, if you insist on continuing your tirade.
not bad :) How is grain?Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy