Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

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Originally Posted by Randy Moe

With pinhole, no need for expensive ND filters.

Nice water!

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at f288 the only thing you really have to have is good batteries in your stop watch :)

Many (I think the majority) of these x-ray film shots look quite dark. Is it possible to do a high-key shot on x-ray film? Is the general darkness a function of the material, or a conscious choice by the photographer?

This shot was with my Kodak 8x10, a 5x7 back, the lens a Gundlach Radar lens using Green x-ray film, process in HC110.

[IMG]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/...db23c595_z.jpg18091-Vase with Leaves-5x7 on 2D-Fuji Xray-Hc110-Radar Lens copy by jackharrisphotography, on Flickr[/IMG]

Pretty Space Age stuff, Radar lenz on X-Ray.

Great image response! :)

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Originally Posted by Peter Lewin

Many (I think the majority) of these x-ray film shots look quite dark. Is it possible to do a high-key shot on x-ray film? Is the general darkness a function of the material, or a conscious choice by the photographer?

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Certainly a high key image can be made. It has to do with shadows and colors. Reds will be black, oranges dark gray, etc. A rim lit nude against a white background would be a great subject for a high key image. I have everything I need to make this image, except the subject.

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Originally Posted by Peter Lewin

Many (I think the majority) of these x-ray film shots look quite dark. Is it possible to do a high-key shot on x-ray film? Is the general darkness a function of the material, or a conscious choice by the photographer?

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Here is a portion of a recent high key test with CSG. I hope since I don't usually put images in here.
Attachment 124585

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Lewin

Many (I think the majority) of these x-ray film shots look quite dark. Is it possible to do a high-key shot on x-ray film? Is the general darkness a function of the material, or a conscious choice by the photographer?

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In my case, my work is in general getting lower and lower keyed, however, the material isn't dictating that. My negatives are looking really nice, by my usual standards. One of the things I have noticed about the stuff is that high toned things are rendered really nicely, and shadows can be very open, too, which leaves a lot of room for interpretation. The only real difference, in my case, is that I'm developing to quite a higher contrast than I would use for silver printing, but that's my intention, for the type of scanning I do, and the carbon printing I intend to try in the future.

Michael, can you explain your method of development?

D23, 1:6.
10 minutes, room temp, agitation every two minutes, in hangers in tanks.

I save and reuse the developer for maybe five or six weeks.

Shot today. 8x10, Fuji Green in D23, 1:6, 12 min.
Just trying to be a 1965-vintage studio portrait photographer . . . .

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/...8a2411f4_b.jpg

Roger Chase by michael.darnton, on Flickr