I forgot to mention that the film was Green Latitude type and was exposed under my enlarger with a 31 Stouffer step tablet. ND filters were used rather than stopping the lens down. Developed in Rodinol 1+50. Tray.
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I forgot to mention that the film was Green Latitude type and was exposed under my enlarger with a 31 Stouffer step tablet. ND filters were used rather than stopping the lens down. Developed in Rodinol 1+50. Tray.
FWIW, I made some ~10s exposures on CXS green latitude, tungsten light, side-by-side with some Fomapan 100, and found the Green latitude substantially faster than the Fomapan 100 at those conditions. The fomapan shots were unusable; the xray film shots were thin but usable. Of course Fomapan 100 has really poor reciprocity characteristics as many have found, but CXS green latitude was better.
Fomapan 100 must be pretty bad then. Out of all the films that I have used, the x-ray film has the worst reciprocity characteristics.
I would be very grateful if any x-ray green latitude film users the next time you're out shooting, if you could apply my reciprocity effect data to your exposure. Works for me, but curious to know if it would work for you. Thankyou. :)
Here is a rough tonal/colour sensitivity comparison between X-ray and TMY-2.
Green does appear slightly lighter and yellow and beyond, darker.
I do not have a film scanner, so please excuse the poor quality.
You guys got me!. I received a 100 sheet box of 11x14 green latitude Kodak film today. At least it's only $.50 a pop!!..Evan Clarke
Hello, could artificial light from clasic mirror lightbulbs cause strong underexposure when used with green sensitive film? I have done some portraits with these bulbs, and the film is allmost clear. (face is in zone 2?) When i prolonged the time for maybe 3EV it looks much better. Thank you...
May I ask why you placed the face on zone II?
Indeed. Zone II plus 3EV would still be about a stop under, at least it seems to me.
As I said above, I have shot some still lifes with this film, lit with plain tungsten lightbulbs. Despite the tunsten color balance working against it, it was faster when shot this way, than Foma 100 which I shot side-by-side with xray. So I'd say that it works fine under tungsten.
No, the face FALL in zone II :) I want only to say, that there is only very minor texture on the negative. Sorry, i wrote it maybe wrong. (my English is weak) I have used exposure from incident light. And everything was underexposed... So, when the film is not sensitive to reds and the light from the bulbs is also reddish - this is maybe the problem...Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill