Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I use only Kodak X-Ray and there is no perf, but a ribbed section you are supposed to cut or tear through the middle of, not below it. I still screw it up after 4 boxes, but Kodak has enough 'bag' even cutting below the right spot to fold it up and slide it into the top load box.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StoneNYC
Wondered that myself...
Also, stupid question, I've only shot 4x5 but picked up some 11x14 cheap and I'm trying understand THE BOX it's AGFA and is perforated and right there on the ripped perf is the film in a plastic black bag, I know they are light resistant but not PROOF as far as I understood?
Anyway shouldn't it come in a normal 3 part light trap box?
Seems strange?... Or is this how all ULF is?
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
11x14 Xray? If so, then yes. That is how it comes. Don't worry, it's pretty safe. I've even got a box of 14x17 and have had no problems with light leaks. Are you going to shoot it as is or cut down to 4x5?
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Carl J
Hi Tim,
I've been using rating my single-sided Kodak B/RA at 50iso and processing for 6 minutes in Rodinal 1:100. Unicolor drums. Approx. 2 min. presoak in the drum. YMMV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Andrew O'Neill
I've developed single-sided Kodak B/RA in BTZS tubes. Works very well. Pyrocat-HD and Obsidian Aqua. I don't bother with a presoak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ndg
I use the Jobo 3005 expert drum, green film with emulsion on both sides and Rodinal. Develop 4(four) 8x10 sheets at a time. 4 cc of Rodinal per 8x10 sheet. That gives me 16cc of rodinal. I mix that to give me 800 cc of devloper (so 1:50). 10 cc of Rodinal per 8x10 sheet is the eecommendation but 4 cc works for me. I tried 2 cc of Rodinal per 8x10 sheet and did not like my results. Jobo recommends 800 cc of developer for 4 sheets in the 3005. I do not presoak but develop for 6 min. I like the images I get.
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Originally Posted by
SergeiR
thats how i process mine. Not in jobo though. Dont like stripping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Randy Moe
I use only Kodak X-Ray and there is no perf, but a ribbed section you are supposed to cut or tear through the middle of, not below it. I still screw it up after 4 boxes, but Kodak has enough 'bag' even cutting below the right spot to fold it up and slide it into the top load box.
Thanks all for the feedback. Are you all using continuous agitation?
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lipi
George!
It is possible you are misswrote the receipt? Or it's an 1:1000 dilution?
My stoeckler D-23 receipt is same as you wrote but in grams instead milligrams...
Thanks!
Triple ugh. Yes. grams, not milligrams.
I've been thinking too much of millimeters. :)
George
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ScottPhotoCo
Thanks all for the feedback. Are you all using continuous agitation?
Yes, I use the lowest setting my Jobo.
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Andrew O'Neill
SergeiR and ndg, you both get consistent, even development? How on earth does developer get to the backside evenly? I've only done rotary with BTZS tubes and I have no experience with Jobo. In the BTZS tube, the film sits very loosely, developer never gets back there to do its job evenly. Usually end up with a mottled mess.
Andrew, it was actually Sergei's work that sold me on the idea of trying Xray film in the Jobo. I'd be lying if I said I knew why I didn't get a scratched and mottled mess of 8x10 sheets. I don't and I'm happy with that. I might try and figure it out when I have more time on my hands. If you have a Jobo, give it a shot.
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Randy Moe
I use only Kodak X-Ray and there is no perf, but a ribbed section you are supposed to cut or tear through the middle of, not below it. I still screw it up after 4 boxes, but Kodak has enough 'bag' even cutting below the right spot to fold it up and slide it into the top load box.
Ribbed/perforated, it tears...
So the black bag in it's own is enough to protect from light? Even if my box is next to a window?
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Andrew O'Neill
11x14 Xray? If so, then yes. That is how it comes. Don't worry, it's pretty safe. I've even got a box of 14x17 and have had no problems with light leaks. Are you going to shoot it as is or cut down to 4x5?
Depends on if I can get an 11x14 holder.
Looking for a CHEAP 8x10 and 11x14. Starting there, and going up when I can find a lens that is for ULF and also isn't as much as my car... (And my car has 240,000 miles on it, and the company (saab) went out of business) so that tells you how much it's worth.... Right now it's just an experiment with a rudimentary "box camera"
The 8x10 hasn't arrived yet.
BTW... WHY is X-ray film so cheap? It had double emulsion, shouldn't it have twice the cost?
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I suppose because not as much goes into it compared to panchro film... sensitizing dyes, anti-halation layer, and probably other layers for this and that.
ndg, I don't have a jobo as I like to keep things simple/primitive. There must be something unique about jobo drums, I guess.
On another note, I've been using both single and double-sided films, and I prefer the double-sided green stuff, as far as tones go, but not as sharp as single-sided. It's razor sharp.
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Andrew O'Neill
I suppose because not as much goes into it compared to panchro film... sensitizing dyes, anti-halation layer, and probably other layers for this and that.
ndg, I don't have a jobo as I like to keep things simple/primitive. There must be something unique about jobo drums, I guess.
On another note, I've been using both single and double-sided films, and I prefer the double-sided green stuff, as far as tones go, but not as sharp as single-sided. It's razor sharp.
What's the single sided called?
