Good Shot,and eye contactQuote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
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Good Shot,and eye contactQuote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
Damn, it's all I gotQuote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
http://u1.ipernity.com/40/44/85/2956...c55437.640.jpg
First trip out with the Fujinar f/4.5 250mm. I loved using this lens, its sharp and bright even in the ground glass. And having a shutter is definitely a plus. First Fuji glass for me, I think there will be more!
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/holdenrichards/29564485
1897 Ak-sar-ben Camera - Fujinar 250mm - f/45 - Kodak B/RA X-Ray - Dektol 1+10 - Unaltered Negative Scan
Welcome back :) With nice one.Quote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
Nice one Lee, good to see you!
Very nice, Holden! I really miss seeing your work on Flickr. I don't get over to ipernity much. I know a lot of photographers made the switch back in May.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdenrichards
Thanks for all the comments, guys! The last x-ray I shot was probably back around summertime with the 7x17 camera. The processing of the larger negatives really frustrated me. I needed a break from x-ray film. I was also doing a project with color 8x10 of the Daegu city monorail and busy with a Kickstarter project that didn't pan out fully.
This portrait was taken in mid-December. It was great to great to get out and play with the 8x10 and x-ray film again. I was feeling rusty and couldn't remember everything I was doing. I was going by instinct to be honest. I usually take my notepad and write my exposures down. I didn't this time. It was either f11 or f16. I thought I may have been overexposing my negatives too much (since I didn't use a yellow filter for this portrait, when I had with the students' pictures back in the Spring), so I decided to go for Rodinal 1:100 (40 ml of Rodinal + 4000 ml water) this time at the same times I was doing before: 4 min. This actually proved to be beneficial! I was printing these contact sheets with an Ilford Multigrade #2 or 2 1/2 filter instead of a #1/2 or #1 filter this time around.
I had some problems with processing though. We can't see them here, but on another portrait session I did outside on New Years Eve. (Perhaps, I'll continue to do x-ray work in a controlled lighting environment with the 8x10). I'll scan those prints and post a few in a few hours. I was getting hangar processing marks along the film edges (you'll see what I mean when I upload those). If I had an 8x10 enlarger, it would easily be cropped. But since I don't, all the errors are shown in the contact prints. I guess I could scan the negative and crop it out too, but this year I'm really trying to keep my black and white work in a darkroom workflow. When I scan negatives, I find myself uploading more work without thinking about the editing process (good ones vs. best ones), spending the extra time in the darkroom printing the images allows me to spend more time with an image and help me determine if it resonates with me.
Thanks Lee, This image of yours is really superb. I have had very good luck contact printingQuote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
X-ray. I have found filtering it a bit helps.
I didn't see see anything wrong with your English. If the negatives are dark, it means they are over exposed. Or over developed. This makes for a thin print. A good negative is no different than a good negative with panchromatic film. You should be looking for the same quality of negative. Because green x-ray film is orthochromatic just really means it is blind to red light. Other than that, it's film. Your developers sound right, which is why I said over exposed. If you are having trouble with double sided film scratching during development, try putting a sheet of glass in the bottom of the development tray. I put the sheet of film in the tray after I put in a pint of developer mix. Then I only rock the tray in four different directions under the red safelight until the negative looks a little too dark. Then it goes in a water stop bath, then the hypo. I rinse the neg in about 8 changes of water over a 30 minute period. The reason to go a little past where the neg looks right as it will lose a little "pop" in the fixer. Over exposed combined with over developed causes soot and whitewash prints. One of the biggest advantages of ortho film stock is your ability to develop by inspection.Quote:
Originally Posted by lipi
I should add that you should take your fotos all at the same time of day to start with. The reason for this is that orthochromatic film is blind to red light. So the speed rating changes during the day, being slowest at early morning and late afternoon. So fix one problem at a time. That's why I reccomend shooting at the same time of day at first. In the old days, they never put a film speed on the box because of this change of speeds depending on the time of day. Try a couple of more sheets, and if you have any questions, we will be more than happy to help you.