Vikings get cranky when they haven't looted, pillaged or slain a dragon recently. Despite my Norske and Min roots, I find living by the beach in California to be a superior choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
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Vikings get cranky when they haven't looted, pillaged or slain a dragon recently. Despite my Norske and Min roots, I find living by the beach in California to be a superior choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Ah California! I am now in Chicago, a stoic city. I had to make my own dragons to slay, poor bastards... I was sorry afterwards.
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Originally Posted by fhovie
Ha! I think that comment is for someone else's photo!Quote:
Originally Posted by premortho
I meant the top one of the stream and rocks, etc. And I stand by what I said.Quote:
Originally Posted by gdi
Then thank you - that is encouraging feedback!Quote:
Originally Posted by premortho
I just did some testing with Fuji's Green Sensitive X-ray film. (I'll write in the exact name later. The box is at another location.)
I exposed a white card at Zone VIII using a Pentax Digital Meter. I rated the film at EI 50. The lens had a Hoya X1 filter on it, a light yellow green. I didnt' make any adjustments for the filter, as I always plan on using one for landscapes.
I exposed a black card on Zone I.
The films were developed in a Jobo CPP-2 using an Expert drum at 75F. The first minute the rotation speed was set to 4. After that, the speed was adjusted to the lowest possible setting.
The film was developed in 1 Liter of Pyrocat MC in glycol for 6 minutes and 30 seconds at the standard 1+1+100 ratios. (The film was drained with 30 seconds left to go.)
With both emulsions in place, the film base plus fog was .23 in both ortho and UV mode. The zone I card gave a density of .33 (ortho) and .38 (UV). The Zone VIII card gave densities of 1.88 (ortho) and 2.28 (UV).
After stripping the back emulsion, the readings were FB+F = .17, Zone I .28 (ortho) and .32 (UV). Th Zone VIII card gave 1.10 (ortho) and 1.31 (UV)
For scanning and silver printing, I prefer a Zone I density of about .15 above FB+F and a Zone VIII density of about 1.30 above FB+F. As a result, I'm going to try developing for 8 minutes.
Peter, thanks for posting your very detailed experiments and readings! I have shot a lot of the green stuff and developed in Rodinal, but I want to try it in Pyrocat instead, so I will use your starting point of 8 minutes when I get around to shooting some more 8x10 one of these days.
I have been working with X-ray film for only a month or so. I purchased 100 sheets of Fuji HR-U size 7 x 17 mainly since I just finished restoring my Kodak 7x11 camera and had not film. I felt it would be better to cut 5x7 to start. Here is an example of a trip to North Carolina Stone Mountain State Park. I still have work to do, but so far some shots are OK.
Camera – Kodak Full Plate with a 5x7 back I made
Lens – Schneider 210mm
Film – Fuji HR-U processed in HC-110 100/1 in Beseler
Drum on Motor Base
Jack
www.flickr.com/photos/56479130@N08
My first successful photo with x-ray film.
Speed Graphic
Optar 135mm f/4,5
f/8 x 1/125
Kodak ClinicSelect Green X-ray
rated ISO 50
Adonal 1+50 x 16.5 min
Both sides emulsion intact.
You can see two marks/scratches on the top and two on the bottom where the MOD54 was holding the film. Not sure how to prevent that. Easy enough to heal in Photoshop. Just too lazy last night.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2866/8...f12317f7_c.jpg
Voigtlander Bessa by James Harr Photo, on Flickr
Hi Randy, from RdeQuote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
aka. the other Randy. Just a thought, how much are you paying for your film delivered? My biggist is 8x10 at this time. Your thoughts of stocking up got me thinking??? Thanks, West coast guy....Rde