Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Okay. Here are two files:

1. A scan of the neg as a color positive. As-is.
Attachment 108797

2. What the picture looks like after some cropping and not-a-lot of PS level setting.
Attachment 108796

Lens: Kodak 305 portrait
FILM: ordinary CSX green film.
ISO: 200
Metering: incident meter setting, held next to the doll face
Developer: d23 (stoeckler) 2-bath: bath 1: 5mg metol, 100mg sodium sulfite - bath 2: 10mg borax. One liter each.
Bath 1: 2 min. Bath 2: 5 minutes.
No Stripping.

After bath 1, the very-highs are just starting to appear. Bath 2 brings the highs up a little more, but really works on the shadows.
The result is a neg that is usable for easy scanning -- the density is such that the highs aren't screaming, and that's without stripping. I havn't tried it yet, but I imagine it'll do well at grade 1 or 2 as well.

I've played with other developers such as d76 and dektol and this 2-bath method is the best I've found so far.
Good news is that the chemicals -- metol and sodium sulfite -- are cheap and very available in bulk. And Borax is normal 20-mule-team.

George

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lipi

So... the key in first: right exposing and don't over developing!

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IMHO it takes a lot to actually overdelop properly exposed film, unless you got insanely aggressive developer.
I left film, both xray and regular in rotating development for hour/two without getting any ill effects with Rodinal, EFG , 110HC (different dillutions).
Only iffy one i didnt like was Pyro HD.

But then i am no expert of course ,nor do i use zone system.

You see how his negative of the dolls looked? That is what you should shoot for. What I meant about developing a little darker than what looks right in the tray is just let it develop in the tray a little longer than you think of as "perfect". That's so it doesn't get lighter than "perfect" in the hypo. The more you develop under a red safelight (which you said you already tested), the easier the whole process will be for you. Don't turn on any whit light until the negative has been in the hypo for at least half the time it takes to completely fix it. Hopefully this will help you get along. If you don't have time to go out to photograph, try doing still lifes in your home. If the only time you have is in the evening, do your still life work under lights. If all you have is white lights, try two more steps of exposure, because "white" incandescent bulbs emit a lot of red light, which you will remember the film is blind to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lipi

Sergei! I just wondered about your photos! :) I did read your test with Rodinal vs Pyrocat and it's convinced me.
There was a big mistake by me when I did my own developing tests: I forget the fact that the 1:100 diluted Rodinal is tired after 2-3 sheets of film :( I t was a very deer error, it's coused a lot of false come-off about my kind of x-ray film ISO's for example. It seems I was too excited. I have to get slower.

Unfortunatelly I don't have enough spare time to photography, but I revisited my whole process from the photo taking to the developing methods/times and I just starting the whole from the beginning so no more experimentation by my own head, just doing what you're did and then refine the developing times/ISO rates! :) Consequently!!!!!!!! It's may would be easier if I could have same kind of films then youre, but as soon I'll get by my friend in USA. (In my country could not get "CXS" films)

So thank you Sergei, premortho for your advices and gbogatko for the raw scan! It's helped me a lot! :)

ps.: I guess I will take a try with the gbogatko's 2 tray developing process too if I could get the chemicals (it's hard in Hungary)... But first with Rodinal...

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Ok, finally got an x-ray film image that makes me happy.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3813/1...2bcb4d3e_b.jpg
12Dagor_Xray_f6.8_012014_WM by ScottPhoto.co, on Flickr

12" Dagor + Deardorff V8 + Kodak Mammography Film
7 minutes at 68 degrees. Rodinal. Trays.

It makes me happy, too; beautiful!

Tim, great. Congratulations! What dilution for the Rodinal?

Me 3!

oops, sorry,

+1

Thanks guys! Lots of failures for one good one. I hope I can repeat it.

Jim, I used 40ml to 2l of distilled water.

Looks like a good exposure to me. Looks like the lens does not quite cover the film, but hey, it works. Congratulations.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lipi

After I revisited my whole process finally I've got a nearly good x-ray photo... (relatively to the previous).

Primax RTG-G green latitude film @ ISO50 (source:http://medical-line.hu/mtermek/xray_film_green.htm just for hungarians)
DIY 18x24cm camera, unknown 210/f:9,5 brass lens @f11 1/50s with an compur shutter from an old Beier Precisa ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldlipi...7637508965354/ )
Develop: (too old) Rodinal 1:100, 7 min@22C, semi stand in trays
"Scan": exposed side of the negative in Canon Pixma MP282 multifunkcional home printer @600dpi (not a real scanner)
Attachment 109178

I promised to myself, I don't do anything while my fresh developer is not coming :)

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Rodinal lasts a long time in the original bottle. I've heard of people using previously opened Rodinal that was 50 years old with good results.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by premortho

Looks like a good exposure to me. Looks like the lens does not quite cover the film, but hey, it works. Congratulations.

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