Attachment 123133
XOE green sensitive X-ray ISO400
Argentum Excursor IIh
Fujionon 210mm f5,6
F64 1/30
Rodinal 1:50 Dev:7sec in 20celsius
Printable View
Attachment 123133
XOE green sensitive X-ray ISO400
Argentum Excursor IIh
Fujionon 210mm f5,6
F64 1/30
Rodinal 1:50 Dev:7sec in 20celsius
http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs71/f/20...ty-d7na8cn.jpg
http://fav.me/d7na8cn
Mentor Panorama
Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 300/4.5
Foma Medix XBU
Got some funky lines on this negative
8x10 Cambo
Dagor 210mm f/6.8 wide open
Kodak Ektascan B/RA
Thanks for the comments axs810 and ImSoNegative!
Still just beginning with this stuff so doing quite a bit of testing. Seeing how orthochromatic the Agfa actually is by photographing some skies...
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5597/...996d8e51_b.jpg
Whole plate Agfa HT-G. Schneider 150mm SSXL f22 @ 1/4 sec
Developed in Rodinal 1:120 for 10min @ 21 degrees C
Got some funky lines on this negative
8x10 Cambo
Dagor 210mm f/6.8 wide open
Kodak Ektascan B/RA
(reposting because I was told that my images weren't downloading in my last post)
I really wish I could but the model moved back to NY :\ lol
Maybe I can find another willing model though :)
I tried skimming a few pages but it's easier for me just to ask...
How do you all store your Kodak Ektascan B/RA film? I usually store my Tri-x in a black bag in my vegetable drawer in the fridge, but am wondering if the xray will be able to handle temperature changes? Would it be best to just store this stuff at room temperature? Thanks! (and sorry if not reading previous posts annoys a few of you)
Also how many of these red LED's can I have in my bathroom before fogging starts to become an issue?
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...bulb/448/1499/
PS: Still curious about how you all store your Ektascan film (see post #840)
I store all my film, including X-ray, in the freezer. I treat it just like any of the other films that I use.
Eek, those are not the bulbs I now recommend. I did buy those first but they are bright pinpoints of light that act like flashlights. I only use 2 of the them in a ceiling fixture that aims them high against the walls of my bathroom or as I call it my X-ray film loading station. They are really too strong. 2 of those bulbs light up my whole large bathroom from wall bounce.
They are also candelabra base and you will need socket adapters. PITA
I use these. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...60-degree/440/ These fit standard screw sockets, and since they glow in all directions the light is 'safer'.
I have them about every 5 feet horizontally and at least 4 feet vertically from X-Ray film or enlarging paper. They are the only safelight I use. 1 or 2 above each sink and one by each enlarger.
Everybody is supposed to test their own setup with the well known safelight test procedures published all over. Google that. :)
A couple more...
Chamonix whole plate loaded with Agfa Ht-G.
Shot with 150mm Schneider SSXL @ f64 for 3sec and f45 for 1sec respectively.
Developed in Rodinal 1:120 for 10 mins. Tanks and hangers.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5605/...aebedd4f_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/...63a0eab1_b.jpg
Randy Moe - Thanks for the update! I know I'm going to have to do some safelight tests before hand, but I just wanted to double check with everyone to see what works best for them. I've already bought two safelight bulbs (one from freestyle, and one that works for wet plate but not xray) but those ended up not working out for me. I'm in a tight spot for money so I had to ask again about how others store their xray film and what safelight they prefer to use so I don't "waste" as much money on bulbs and stuff. My last sheet of Ektascan was given to me by a friend and was stored in a locker at school. After shooting and developing it had faint lines going thru the whole negative horizontally so that's why I was curious how others store their film. I'm going to be ordering a box of Ektascan 8x10 soon, and that'll probably be the last box I can buy for about 4-6 months lol...
Thank you all for your responses it's much appreciated!
I just store the box of film I am using on a shelf in the darkroom. Excess boxes get ziplock bagged and frozen.
X-Ray film is just film. A quick Google and we have this as first response.
http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploa...d_Handling.pdf
Remember all film is only a few human lives in existence.
Many here choose to freeze film as Kodak recommends for periods greater than 6 months. Double ziplocks are a great idea.
But we should be using film as the consumable it is. It will go bad and will not last forever, no matter what we do.
Freezing and refreezing film is a bad idea, imho, too much handling. Freeze unopened boxes once and for as long as your refrigeration system lasts, which is not really that long.
I store my fresh film inside my climate controlled studio. Never hot, never cold. If I have excess film I store MINE in a dedicated refrigerator at just above freezing. I don't remove a box of LF film and take a few sheets and then return it to cool or frozen storage facilities. Common sense, I think. Once out of cool or frozen storage is stays out and is consumed.
I have lots of old film that people give me, none of it was ever stored in ideal conditions. Some of it is still usable, some is pretty useless, for me.
My prize 'old stuff' is 800 sheets of 8x10 AZO contact paper. I rescued it from an abandoned building in Detroit. It was in heavy dust, on the floor, for who knows how long, many years certainly, in an old studio without heat, AC and broken windows. The boxes have a bit of moisture damage on the outside, but as far as I can tell, this AZO is just fine. The boxes are undated. I'm aging it a bit more in my studio...
Film as we know it may or not exist another 2 lifetimes. I am starting to learn DIY emulsion methods. X-Ray is simply a temporary tool, we now have.
Love the one you're with.
Fantastic shots, great perspective. I like the light/dark motif, especially in the 2nd.
Craig, I really like the control you are getting from your x-Ray film. A lot of other examples seem to be either rather dark or rather contrasty, but you are getting a really nice tonal range. Very nice series of images!
The most important handling rule for freezing and refreezing film is to avoid condensation conditions. Water on the sensitive surface of film (that's both sides, for most x-ray stocks) can remove or relocate sensitizing dyes, leading to localized areas of reduced film speed (or increased, where the dye lands when the water dries) or changed color senstivity, as well as adhesion between sheets or of film to packaging (gelatin is a marvelous glue; it's been used for centuries to bond furniture together).
Don't open the airtight package until the entire box of film is up to ambient temperature (allow 12 hours out of the freezer for 8x10; I give 4x5 eight hours; even from the refrigerator, its best to allow several hours for the temperature to equilibrate). If you do choose to refreeze the film, close it up airtight and remove as much air as possible at room temperature (ideally the lowest humidity you can manage), before putting it in the freezer. I'd agree with the recommendation to minimize the number of transitions; consuming the film after thawing is probably best (but not all of us can use an x-ray size box of 8x10 or larger in a reasonable time after thawing).
Randy, a blue-sensitive, very slow emulsion is pretty easy. Broadening the spectral sensitivity requires chemicals that are going to be permanently out of production when film production ceases (which looks pretty good to be after I no longer care due to my own expiration); they were developed specifically for this one purpose and are used for nothing else. Making faster emulsions (= larger grain) is mainly a process of "ripening", letting the halide crystals grow, but it requires aging at controlled temperatures in the dark, before applying the emulsion to the base. Dry plates, as used ca. 1880, are well within range. Panchromatic film may be permanently beyond amateur production.
Donald,
The best emulsion advice for DIY I have found, is published by Denise Ross, http://www.thelightfarm.com/
I am going to try her methods this winter. I got a bunch of 5x7 glass plates for a start with dry plate.
Gathering supplies as I can. Big bottle of Everclear was called for, so I have that to scare people with.
First thanks to all those that have supplied input to this thread, your information has been priceless. I have purchased 100 sheets of 10x12 blue half speed film and have achieved great results with it (just ordered 100 11x14 sheets). I purchased over a thousand of various sized sheets of printing paper off ebay for $36, and am having a ball.
In regards to the dry plate emulsions, there is a great set of instructions by Mark Osterman, refined from the 1800s, this may be the same one found on thelightfarm site. I have all the ingredients for dry plate and collodion as per John Coffers no7 recipe for wet plate and hopefully will experiment at xmas time. At present having too much fun refining pics with xray negs.
Thanks again for all the advice
Ok sorry.
Here is the address for Mark Ostermans recipe, it has a link in it which gives a more in depth explanation of the process, it is very interesting and explains how the emulsion can be manipulated to give you a faster emulsion and a more sensitive one. Good reading. No I don't do workshops very well, its just someone telling you what you can find on the net for free.
Another good source, though I'm probably trying to teach you to suck eggs, is Youtube. A guy called Borut Peterlin on you tube is very entertaining and has some great tips. Though it is wet plate collodion.
http://thelightfarm.com/Map/DryPlate...PlatePart4.htm
I don't know about John Coffer and dry plate? Just interested in his wet plate collodion. You would have to check out his site.
kanga, sorry for late answer.
my is 493... it is the same lens.
the lens is good enough for 8x10 wide open in portrait distance (2-3m and more to model) with some movements
yes, i have vignetting and darkness in the corners if i have to much movements, but when, then i try to do my shots anotherway (read without movements or a bit less movements) if i would like to have 8x10 full of image. on the otherside i make my contact prints on 18x24 paper. it meens i have to crop :(
Wow, that resource didn't exist last time I looked at making my own film. I'll have to look through her site in more detail; it certainly seems as if, as long as we can get acetate and glass, we'll be able to keep doing what we do (I have a couple 9x12 cm plate cameras, I can shoot glass without any more effort than pulling the film sheaths out of the plate holders -- and in that size, it isn't all that heavy). I'll have to look in more detail to see if she's at least come up with (or found and pointed to) a path to ortho sensitivity without exotic sensitizing dyes. If I can make an ISO 25 equivalent emulsion for film and plates, and control contrast in an emulsion to coat on paper for prints, I'll be able to do this as long as I can lift my tripod, regardless of what the film industry does.
Wow, just reread the link above and it is a much improved and understandable recipe, with pictures. This is doable.
I have 100 thin plates of 5x7 glass, much of the lab gear, and now the winter to gather supplies and try it.
I was unaware of John Coffer and his workshops sound terrific.
Great links!
I thought I'd try out my recently acquired 335mm Wollaston Meniscus lens. Kodak Ektascan B/RA X-ray film. Shot wide open. EI 80. Developed in pyrocat-hd.
That's on 8x10, probably?
Yessiree! Got some 14x17 but my camera needs some repairs first...bellows is stiffer than the drink I poured last night.
Świetny portret.
Ja dziś testowałem nowy film RTG, Fuji UM-MA, jego zaleta, emulsja tylko po jednej stronie. Wstępnie świeciłem 64asa bo tak mi wychodziło na poprzednim filmie Fuji SuperRX więc od tego zacząłem.
Rodinal 1:100, 12 minut w kuwecie przy czerownym świetle. Negatyw wygląda dobrze, zobaczymy...
Pozdrawiam.
Yes it is a great reference. The other activity you might find valuable is albumen prints or salt printing. This will allow you to print your negatives onto one of the first materials used, it gives awesome results, once again Borut Peterlin gives a very practical demonstration on youtube.
As for the dry plate emulsion, it suggests your plates will be about iso 20-ish, this is within my parameters for using the cap off cap on exposure method. Might be the start of a great thread. I had trouble finding cheese crocks over here and had to import from the US. We do not have everclear here (Australia) either but there is another alcohol product (denatured alcohol) which is a great substitute, and cheap.
The emulsion is a gel, you just get a tablespoon out of your crock, heat it up and pour it onto your plate, will last indefinitely if stored correctly.
I will be doing it around xmas time, will let you know how it goes.
Great and do start a new thread.
Foamcore camera, 0.4mm pinhole, 80deg AOV. Fuji HRT green 18*24cm, processed in Rodinal 100:1 6.5mins. Contact print.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3932/...eb890f52_z.jpgWorkshop by francis morrin, on Flickr
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5608/1...82040e1c_c.jpg
CP Goerz RP II
Kodak blue 13x18 developed in Rodinal
Slavich Bromportret 80 in Ilford PQ-U
PS. the print is not so sharp as it shown, this is texture of the paper :)
Back to xray, once holders cleared from Arista. I have found that i grew to get results with Xray way better and easier with "regular" Arista.
8x10, Kodak CSG, 1:100 Adonal, 10m rotary
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/...e35fb553_b.jpgScan-141026-0003www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Yesterday I've took my camera out for first time and here is the result.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/...e70d4d4e_o.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/...132a7a9b_o.jpg
xray film shot with a Titan 8x10 pinhole, never used a pinhole camera before let alone with xray film, one thing I like about using xray film is so far there is no reciprocity failure that I have seen even at 22 minutes, I actually taped a 0 filter on the inside trying to control the contrast, it helped a bit, just shooting around the yard.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/...26680f6e06.jpgtitan and xray 2 by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr
another, my ghost, I was timing the exposure, this one was 16 minutes.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/...1143570501.jpgtitan and xray film by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr
no filter, 4.5 minutes, very high contrast, this pinhole camera is f288
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/...4d66080a20.jpgTitan 8x10 and xray film pt2 by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr