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I wonder why they can not use the same digital equipment for nondestructive testing that is used for medical applications.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
Are you sure Instax is film and not a stamp? My problem with it is the size. Come on Fuji, at least make it the size of packfilm. Also would not hurt to make it the size of the 4x5" packfilm.
Too late, I now bought EV. But when I scratch together some money I will buy 2000 also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt
Been reading through this gigantic thread. One question, where did all the sample images go? Have they been archived somewhere on the forum, or just removed by the original posters- would love to see some examples of the different films/subjects. Cheers, D
There was a major purge years ago when the backend had some issue, with local files. Others, I assume folks have website changes or refreshes and they disappear.
Here's one I shot last weekend. Fuji HR-T, EI of 80, developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 6:30 at 70F:
https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...perd-4312s.jpg
Love it
Thanks for posting
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
Which is safer and easier to use, the Dahle 12e Vantage Paper Trimmer or the Dahle 507 Personal Rotary Trimmer? Is the Dahle 12e good enough? :rolleyes:
- https://www.amazon.com/Dahle-Automat.../dp/B000W1QOS4
- https://www.amazon.com/Dahle-Persona.../dp/B083FBYHXR
Hello guys! I'm a new user. I need some advice. I received a few years ago some Fujifilm di-al expired in 2012. I know this could be a problem. today I tried to develop them but the plates are transparent even after exposure to the sun. I used rodinal 1+50 at 28 degrees celsius for 4 minutes. Is there any special procedure for these films? they might not work anymore, I would be very sorry.
https://shop.mxrimaging.com/fuji-di-...pl-imager.html
It says to use laser energy to develop the latent image. I'm curious now, perhaps that "film" is non-reactive to chemicals? I have no idea, but kind of interesting (sorry I know that's not helpful). If you aren't getting any development from Rodinal after fully exposing the sheet to daylight......
As far as i know medical dry imaging film isn’t sensitised in the photographic sense so you can’t use it in camera. It’s dedicated to the dry imaging laser technology (whatever that actually is) so no surprise it doesn’t work.
Intend to buy red LEDs. Which color temperature would you recommend?
I can get 550 nm, 630 nm, 650 nm, 670 nm, 700 nm, 740 nm, 770 nm. Which would you recommend for green sensitive X-ray film manipulating in the darkroom and developing by sight?