Indirect window light on a hazy day will transmit less UV and the blue end of the spectrum requiring considerably more exposure for the x-ray film.
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Indirect window light on a hazy day will transmit less UV and the blue end of the spectrum requiring considerably more exposure for the x-ray film.
film: 18x24 Kodak MIN-R S Carestream Mammography film, blue sensitive single sided
development: CPP3 with expert drum 3005, Rodinal 1:100 20 degrees C for 8 minutes, drum speed 50, 100ASA
lens: Spatz Paris La Sphere (aplanat) 24x30 cm (ca 360mm) @ f22
lights@ camera: 6 foot rotalux softbox with elinchrom flash fom above, Deardorff V8 with pneumatic shutter with flash sync
[img]/Volumes/EUROPOLIS FILM/18x24 xray/Untitled (4).jpg[/img]
Great work, Thomas.
thank you Peter!
The facial expressions are priceless, I guess patience was waining?? Great shot
This is an old thread, but I was wondering if anyone has used or seen x-ray film without rounded corners? Essentially, square corners. I have fuji green with rounded corners but I started to cut down the 8x10 to 4x5 with a safe light and not having a rounded corner on 4x5 might be a blessing. thanks
I've only seen rounded corners, sorry.
The rounded corner does not effect the image at all. I also cut my film from 8x10 to 4x5 and the rounded corner gets hidden in the film holder rebate. So go ahead and have some fun.
Made some portraits yesterday in my festival tent, just for fun and to demo the "old" camera. Used x-ray film for obvious cost reasons. The tent is a perfect lightbox and even adds a bit of a catchlight in the eyes. Here's one image I made - background is the gridwall and small silver prints I had on display.
Wehman UL 8x10, Schneider 360mm f/5.6 Symmar, Fuji HR-T film shot at 50 and developed in Rodinal 1:100:
http://www.garrisaudiovisual.com/pho...rk-4118sss.jpg
I was pleased to find that it is possible to order a single 100 sheet box of 5x7" x ray film from ZZMedical, although it seems only the blue sensitive stuff is available one box at a time. I ordered one box to have a stock of 5x7. I've been cutting down 8x10 sheets of green sensitive to 5x7 for use in my Burke & James 5x7, but it will be nice to have some ready to go in the 5x7 size.
This? https://www.zzmedical.com/5x7-in-fuji-x-ray-film.html
Shipping is almost as much as the film.
I don't think ZZ had this before
Yes, that is what I ordered, and with UPS Ground shipping to me in CA it was $52.17. The shipping does seem a bit extreme but it still offers a lot of shooting opportunities for a reasonable price, and I've had luck developing the green stuff so far.
I have a box of the RX-N 5x7. It is about 1.5mm too wide for a standard holder. PLease let us know if this is still true with the current stock. The ref no. n the box is 47410 - 19284. It is 13x18 mm.
Thanks,
Jim
First shot where i had some success. 8x10 Carestream MXG metered at ISO 80(shadows are a bit thin so I will probably rate it lower next time). Developed in replenished xtol for 9min at 70-72 degrees.
Attachment 194695
I'll be mildly annoyed if I have to cut 1.5mm off the film because my hope was to avoid cutting the stuff down in general. Although aren't there metric 13x18cm film holders that have the same external dimensions as "normal" 5x7" holders, such as the ones by Fidelity that I have? Maybe I should buy a few of those if it is oversized.
Didn't I buy the Korona 7X17 from you? With one OE Korona 7X17 holder.
Can't remember. _______________Yes, I did as I just learned from thread research.
I now have three 7X17 holders.
But the X-Ray does not fit in one or two holders.
At the same time bought 2 'S&S' 7X17 holders I think those are Korona copies off eBay
Which doesn't matter to me as I just slice the X-Ray film to fit, but it's been a while...
I just got them out, they are loaded with film and I don't want to check anything.
I do remember I had this discussion before on this forum.
Old posts.
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...l=1#post126043
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...l=1#post144429
https://www.photo.net/discuss/thread...nsions.152758/
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...Dimensions-Fit
No, I sold the camera to another person on this forum. The three original holders worked well with the film, as did my S&S holders which were claimed by a friend.
What kind of cutter do you use to slice off small pieces of film? I'm tired of he razor blade.
I think you sold your friend's camera to me and later sold yours to somebody else.
I am often wrong!
I was Randy Moe, but changed my LFPF name for a number of reasons.
I now cut 14X17" Ektascan down with a dedicated Dahle cutter, Never use it for paper, only film.
Dahle 18e VantageŽ Trimmer is affordable and has a very gentle automatic 'holder downer' feature made of flexible rubber/plastic. It also saves fingers.
I have a smaller one for smaller format.
It's not perfect and does sometimes pull a little, but it's far better than my 24" Rota Trim at cutting film.
Here is the German Co. https://www.dahle.com/products/trimm...otines/18e.php
I bought mine on Amazon some years ago, note the price. https://www.amazon.com/Dahle-Automat...gateway&sr=8-3
Yes,I sold it to you.I didn't recognize the name change.
I won't receive the so-called 5x7 film until next week (it is being shipped from a warehouse in New Hampshire?!?) but I went ahead and bought a few NOS 13x18cm Lisco holders that should allow me to make good use of it if it is indeed larger than standard 5x7 film. I can also use them for cutting down my remaining stock of 8x10 to fit.
I received my 100 sheet box of "5x7" film today, and sure enough it is explicitly marked as 13x18cm on the box.
I've been using the Bill Atkinson / Outback Print color test image for years to dial in color on my printer.
It would be great to have a reference for what green sensitive film can actually see. I don't have any green sensitive x-ray film right now, but maybe someone who does could take a picture of a color test image to compare?
Northlight has a whole page of test images to work from, so I'm sure there's something we could all download in order to compare.
According to a previous reply to this thread Blue Sensitive and Green sensitive only refer to the color phosphors to which the film is most sensitive.
Hey all, I searched to the best of my ability, but I just want to double check.. I bought some Fuji Super HR-U Medium Speed Green, what ISO should I be shooting at?
Start around 50-80, adjust to taste.
I actually tried HC-110 recently and the results were very poor. But that was one test and I may have just been way off on development times/dilutions/etc.
I usually use Rodinal 1:100.
Remember these films aren't sensitive to the full spectrum of light. Your light meter will lie to you under incandescent light and v. early or v. late in the day out doors in natural light. You may need 1-2-3 stops of extra exposure or more depending on the situation. Mercifully, the film is inexpensive and you can do tests galore w/o breaking the bank.
if you reflect the light source off the recording side of a DVD or CD the full spectrum of the source will be visible. Anything more than a bare minimal band of red indicates the available light is very weak, or totally unsuitable for X-ray, or other ortho films.
After a few failed attempts, I successfully reversal processed an 8x10 sheet of Fuji HR-U. There were still some scratches owing to the very small volume of solutions I used during tray processing, but this was more a proof of concept so I'm happy with the result.
The key elements to doing this successfully are using a chrome alum stop bath after the first development and a dichromate (R-9) bleach step to preserve the fragile emulsion. 2nd development reused the 1st developer 1+50 Rodinol.
Attachment 195236
There wasn't anything particularly rigorous about the process since x-ray film affords the ability to do continuous inspection under a safelight, but here's a rough outline. Its essentially the same as a standard BW reversal with care taken to toughen the emulsion.
- Film exposed by strobes as per incident meter reading w/ bellows correction @ 100 ISO
- Tray develop in 1+50 Rodinol for 10 minutes. Intermittent agitation. The first development should be quite dense.
- Kodak stop bath with chrome alum added to 3% (3g / 100mL) for 6 minutes. Constant initial agitation for 1 minute then intermittent agitation.
- Water wash for 2 minutes
- R-9 bleach (.95% potassium dichromate, 1.2% concentrated sulfuric acid; roughly .95g and 1.2mL per 100mL water) for 3 minutes with constant agitation.
- Wash / Clear in 9% Sodium Sulfite (Hypoclear) 2 minutes
- Turn on the lights for reversal exposure
- 2nd Development 7 minutes (to completion, by inspection)
- Wash 2 minutes
- Fix 5 minutes, non-rapid acid fixer
- Wash / Clear in fresh hypoclear 3 minutes
- Final washing 5 minutes
* Neutralize R-9 bleach with excess sodium sulfite prior to storage as waste / disposal.
All the handling and processing with small solution volumes exacerbates the opportunity for emulsion damage, but in this case it was all physical, not degradation of the emulsion via processing chemicals. A pyro developer or hardening prior to first development might toughen things up even more. R-9 bleach seems to be a requirement, as my tests with a hardened negative and permanganate based bleach at standard concentrations always led to disintegration of the emulsion.
Thank you!
I finally got to try out the box of "5x7" blue sensitive film I recently bought from ZZMedical. I can confirm that it does NOT fit in my standard Fidelity 5x7 holders as it is slightly too wide, and it DOES fit perfectly in my Lisco 13x18cm holders. The corners are rounded. I plan to use it only in my 13x18 holders so I can avoid the additional handling of trimming. It is convenient to be able to load up the holders straight from the box. I've been developing it in my three slot Nova print processor which seems to work & helps keep away scratches (compared to developing in trays). I'm still working on exposure and developing issues but so far it doesn't seem much different from the green sensitive stuff I first tried.
Would it be wiser to get 7x17 and cut into 3 ?....and green to that. At least that might be my strategy....till someone comes up with better plan.
Les
I dp as Leszek suggests because it is easier to cut into 3rds, (+2")than 1.5mm off the long edge.
https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-r...overstock.html
For those who want x-ray film on the cheap - 14x36 trifold is on sale at zzmedical. The website says it's a 100 sheet box but it is only 25 sheets. Still, that works out to about 5˘ a shot for 4x5
Just as an FYI, one should probably call zzmedical to verify accuracy of their sales when ordering from the bargain bin.
Ravenranger, is this one of the double-sided emulsion films?
On an unrelated note, what are people's experiences like stand-developing x-ray with rodinal? I've got some EB/RA to use.
In my experience xray film is quite sensitive to over and under agitation. EB/RA less so than generic double sided, but still. Haven't tried stand development with it as I never saw the need for it. Just try it out; if you get mottling or other forms of unevenness, you know the likely cause of the problem.
I'm back at shooting UV with it because I still have the, what, five year old box left. When doing experimental stuff like this, I don't want to waste my Fomapan or my HP5 bulk purchase leftovers for reasons of cost. I figure this is also a great use for the x-ray film because I'm not wasting panchromacy on images filtered to exclude everything above 405nm. I might post some pictures later. Been working on this project for years but haven't really posted my work anywhere, for fear of an enterprising individual stealing my thunder.