They've been said to cause uneven development on double-emulsion film, in earlier posts, as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
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They've been said to cause uneven development on double-emulsion film, in earlier posts, as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
Thanks, I had forgotten that one. So are you stand developing, but also flipping every 30 seconds? You mention stand developing at the end of the post. Or perhaps that was in tanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by plaubel
Someone inquired about filters. I tested this several years ago and posted results here. You'll have to go back and search. I prefer to use #8 or #15 yellow Wratten filters, as well as the light green #11, on double-sided green latitude.
Also, if you really want to play with double-sided x-ray and minimal agitation, you really should stay away from trays. But, flipping the film each time it is agitated is smart. And.... flat-bottomed trays are the best. Just my personal opinion! :)
Thanks for the advice. For 4×5, I probably will. When I get my Century Universal in working order, I will be tray developing. So I will probably not be stand developing those negatives.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
I have some 8x10 hangers and fashioned a plexi-glass tank so that I could do full on stand in very dilute Pyrocat-HD. I think I posted results somewhere in this long thread...
I only tray developed as I had no tanks. Agitate too fast and you get flow marks and dark edging, develop too slow and you get mottling. I would try to avoid doing pics with lots of sky, as it really showed the flaws. I did control it by using very weak developer mix and agitating longer.
My best result so far was using rotary, yes with xray one slip and you just have a negative full of scratches, but wow, when it all goes correctly there is less dust marks, scratches and mottling. If tray developing use a tray a lot bigger than your film size, to prevent the developer splashing back off the side of your tray and avoid any tray that has grooves in the bottom, this causes an area of faster flow too! Thrift shops and the like always have old pyrex dishes going cheap. Perfect developing trays.
I have them pointed away from my work area, into a corner of my bathroom. White ceiling, seafoam green walls. Reflected, indirect light. So 2 bulbs better than 1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne
Attachment 160317
I took a look and it was very helpful. You've convinced me to give yellow a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
No - I would call this technique flippdeveloping instead of stand developing:-)Quote:
Originally Posted by seezee
What I have seen in my trays is that 45 to 60 seconds without flipping the negative will result in uneven development.
But maybe I have to mention that I use Rodinal, which exhausts quick, especially in dilutions of 1:100 and weaker.
The layer on the tray bottom has less access to fresh developer than the layer on top, and once exhausted, Rodinal becomes lazy as a slowt.
Stand development in a tank for me has the advantage of totally advoiding any scratches and further gives identical development on both sides of the film, without burning the highlights.
I have to look forward to the other advantages of stand development, concerning the shadows...
Ritchie
Used yellow filter in mail, and this weekend I'm finally picking up all the stuff from my PO box, including the UV stuff. I'm eager to share the results with you guys.
I got a 135mm chrome-barrel EL-Nikkor, which hasn't been as extensively tested as the shorter focal length EL-Nikkor's for UV transmission. Should cover 4x5, and at 30$, it was worth a try. Gonna' slap a B+W 403 filter in front and see what I can get using Ektascan B/RA film.