See the following website:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...845/ti0845.pdf
R.
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See the following website:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...845/ti0845.pdf
R.
Also see this page which has the graphs for the LED's I specified. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...Specifications
Seeing these spectrum, I choose RED LED from this company. Way cheaper than any other safelight.
Nice Brian!
I know this probably comes up often but where can you buy Kodak X-ray film
Also, before Randy mentioned his bulbs, I had bought a real medical safelight on Ebay. It wasn't too expensive, was new, and had a regular deep red filter as Kodak recommends and 15W bulb. After trying to work with it a couple of times I gave up because it was so dark--it was good for finding lost things, but not for cutting film or anything else. Even at that, it wasn't all that safe!
Im not sure if i posted this on this site, or somewhere else, or if i just thought I did, but I got some 4x5 green x-ray film from the FPP.
Im seeing a wide range of dev times even with the same dilutions/developers. Id like to try my hand at this film this spring but as mentioned, such a wide range of times Im not sure where to start. Might even try some still life shots with it since its *way* too cold for me to venture outside with a camera.
All i have at hand for developers is HC-110 and Rodinal.
What do the x-ray guru's here at LFP suggest? Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Derek
Fuji HR-T
~ EI 80
Rodinal 1:100
6:30, 68 degrees F
Adjust to taste. Is it Fuji or something different?
Example:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--cSbWYHQsr...s640/0046s.jpg
BTW, thanks Peter and stradibarrius!
That photo looks great! Thanks for the dilution and time ( and EI, developer).
Im honestly not sure if it is Fuji? I guess i could ask the, to be certain. Might make it easier to get developing info if i knew exactly what it was.
Thanks again
Derek
Thanks! If it's Agfa, Kodak, or something else entirely, all bets are off - but that might get you in the ballpark. I would shoot 3-4 sheets of a scene under normal light and develop each one and adjust as necessary until you get it close to the right contrast ratio and shadow values. I don't use HC-110 at all but Rodinal works real well, especially at higher dilutions.
Another thing to consider is that the film is very prone to scratching so be careful. What method are you using for developing?
Finally, some of us (me included) strip one side of the film with bleach, to get rid of the emulsion on that side - which gives slightly sharper results with less density. It also makes tube development possible (it scratches the rear emulsion up pretty bad, so you just bleach it away, so no scratches).