I have no experience with this, but since they're basically just silver negatives, they should intensify just like regular negatives.
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I have no experience with this, but since they're basically just silver negatives, they should intensify just like regular negatives.
Thanks Andrew.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Have used selenium with Ortho Litho film in the past. It did work, adding density to the highlights in the negative. It resulted in an increase of contrast of about one paper grade in the print. Didn't do an extensive testing though, so it might be possible to push it even further.Quote:
Originally Posted by mollypix
Also, if the above is combined with selenium toning the print (adding density to the shadows) it could lead to a total increase of about two paper grades, give or take.
I was thinking of trying negative intensification when printing from some old x-ray negatives a couple weeks ago. They were a bit thin, requiring grade 5 to produce usable prints.
So, if anyone has any experience with it, I too would be very interested in your findings.
Seeking help from the cumulative wisdom of all you LF x-ray users,
For a couple of months now (off-n-on), I've been playing around with 8x10 Ektascan B/RA. I shoot it at EI 80 and process as follows: Jobo 3005 Expert Drum, CPP-2, Rodinal at 1:100 at 68F, speed 4 rotation (same speed I've used for 20 years of developing LF film on my Jobo.) I use 3ml of stock Rodinal per 8x10 sheet to ensure an adequate quantity of developer. For pt/pd printing, I've been developing for 6 1/2 mins, though I think that may be a tad long...haven't decided, yet. Oh, I should probably mention that I'm following my usual procedure of 5 mins pre-soak, develop, 1 min stop, 5 mins fix (rapid fix), wash as usual.
OK, all that said I'm seeing uneven development which is especially easy to see in the tonality of bald, clear blue sky. Any ideas? Maybe I'm spinning the drum too fast? In 20 years of using my Jobo for LF film development, I've never once seen uneven development from any of my Expert Drums.
Thank you.
That is strange. I haven't developed any Ektascan in my Jobo with an Expert Drum yet, but a friendly person gave me some recently, and so I'll give it a try soon. You might try eliminating the pre-soak. I doubt that X-ray (and similar) films used them, and it's possible that they have wetting agents built into the film that can get washed out with a pre-soak.
How many sheets are you developing at a time?
2 - 3 sheets per run so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter J. De Smidt
I've had uneven development using drums on an Ilford motorized base, I had to go back to rolling them by hand. I also went to using 1.5-2ml of developer per sheet, ensuring that I was developing to exhaustion, that seems to give me better control of contrast.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan9940
For anyone interested. Foma have a Mamo single side notched emulsion film. It is called:
MEDIX MAMMO Plus available (only) in 18x24cm and 24x30cm
http://www.foma.cz/produkty-medix-ma...us-detail-1755
I think it is very much the equivalent of the Ektascan BR/A with european dimensions.
The price is very good - 45 EUR+VAT/box of 100 pcs. and is always in stock at Foma distributor from Romania. More info after I have one in my hands.
I don't pre-soak this film although I do so with others. I develop either in a tray, or a jobo at the absolutely slowest speed possible. Itunr it on and as soon as it begins turning, I leave it there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan9940
This is VERY interesting given the difficulties of getting Ektascan BR/A in Europe. I'm going to look into it and see if I can order a box at a reasonable price.Quote:
Originally Posted by stiganas
Just a Quick Question I have a box of 8x10 on the way. I am going to cut it to 4x5. What are you folks using to store the film once it is cut? I have no 4x5 film boxes and can't find any 4x5 paper safes online.