That's why I have stocked up, sometimes I learn from my elders
Like Jim
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
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That's why I have stocked up, sometimes I learn from my elders
Like Jim
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Obviously I didnt mean that difference. ISO is not really a different parameter, its steps are on a logarithmic scale, that is all. But if you show me datasheets of X-ray film where their ISO sensitivity is written, than I would be very glad about that data.
All that data is online with Fuji and repeated endlessly on this thread
Why are you asking one ? at a time?
Additionally it is helpful to know your location, as Fuji has many sites, look it up
The pioneers just tested for themselves, their data is here
20 years ago Data was slim
I have only 9 years of experience
No, the data is not there anymore. There are a lot of dead links, that is what is there now. (E.g. for the sensitivity and reciprocity there is a link to Phototrio, gives a 404.)
https://www.kodak.com/content/produc...y-Workbook.pdf QUOTE=Eugen Mezei;1614891]No, the data is not there anymore. There are a lot of dead links, that is what is there now. (E.g. for the sensitivity and reciprocity there is a link to Phototrio, gives a 404.)[/QUOTE]
Greetings and thank you to all who have shared their knowledge & experience. As a 'newbie' to x-ray & large format the wisdom is a valuable starting point.
I've was given a heap of old Agfa x-ray film from a retired radiographer which I'll be attempting to use to whet my appetite. The 10T is very much RS (emulsion floats off) but I've cut some Cronex 5 down to 4x5 (& 2x3) to play around in my pinholes. Unfortuanately, our current lockdown status prevents me from taking the Crown Graphic out & about, having exhausted the patience of my wife & dog. It'll be interesting to see how this stuff handles over 10 years past expiry.
Attachment 219927
Great!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubud
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...287c1a4a_k.jpg
8x10 large format by T. Chabry, on Flickr
Camera: 8x10 Kodak Rochester Empire State
Film: AGFA G-PLUS green X-Ray exposed at ISO 100
Development: 6 mn in Caffenol C-H @ 20°C
Just FYI. In this thread are two red safelight recommendations - one from superbrightled and a second from Lowe’s. I tested both this morning - Fuji green X-ray film, indirect light with measuring cups on the film, five minutes exposure with one film for each bulb. Developed 20-minutes Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 to be sure it was fully developed. The Lowe’s bulb badly fogged the film. The superbrightled exposed film barely showed the outline of the cups, but they were there. I guess it’s on to replacing the cord on my old Kodak bullet safelight and using their X-ray filter.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...24fbb535_h.jpgKodak 1A Grey Bullet Safelight 2 by Nokton48, on FlickrQuote:
Originally Posted by j.e.simmons
Jason Lane suggested this setup to me, this is what he uses to coat his high speed glass dry plates. It's the Lowes LED behind a Kodak !A Bullet Safelight and filter. So this one is DOUBLE-FILTERED deep red light. I've used dev times as long as 25 minutes in a tray with no fog six feet away. Add film cutting and loading time to that and ZERO FOG ever.
Jason really knows what he is talking about. Not cheap to make but worth every penny
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1f01d2d6_h.jpgKodak 1A Grey Bullet Safelight 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
I like it so much I made a second one for cutting and loading