I really like round images
We watched r0und TV for 5 decades
I have a Chinese 7.5 mm fish on crop DIGI
Maybe I should fit to 35mm film as all the kids are 35mm
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The Mamiya not only benefits from a built-in Seiko shutter, but using filters on it is E-Z -- unlike most fisheyes. I'm not sure if this is true for all of the Mamiya 37mm lenses -- they made several versions -- but on my C 37mm (RB Pro-S era) there is a rear 40.5mm filter thread. With two step up rings, I can use any of my 55 or 77mm filters (my standards) -- even polarizers. (I still need to make some IR shots someday, though. :o)
And don't forget that with simple cropping you can make a FULL-FRAME 180° fisheye image -- which can be quite dramatic for certain subjects.
http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/gonefishin.pdf
Thanks y'all - I like the "little world" idea. Though it reminds me of the "little planet" images that were a big fad maybe ten years ago in the digital world, done by making a ton of images and stitched in photoshop into a sphere
xkaes, the Pentax has the usual fisheye filter set built-in, but not the rear filter thread. That's interesting, though perhaps not of much use other than the IR filter idea you mentioned (I tend to use R25 myself). I'm not sure what you mean by "full-frame 180 degree fisheye" in context of the 37mm vs my 35mm Pentax - that's exactly what I have here on 4x5 film (scanned and cropped square, of course). Perhaps you thought I meant a 35mm-film-sized fisheye but I mean the one for Pentax 67, 35mm focal length. As usual your website doesn't work - DNS errors on your end.
I was unaware that the Pentax 35mm had filters built-in. That helps, but not with IR, of course. The R25 is the next best thing, but on my lenses that I can't use an IR filter, I combine an R25 with a X11 (green). Together they get rid of most of the visible light. http://www.subclub.org/gallery/laundry.htm
As to the "FULL-FRAME" format, as you know, the Pentax 35mm and Mamiya 37mm were designed as full-frame fisheyes (like the 15mm, 16mm & 17mm 35mm fisheyes), and adapting them to 4x5" makes them CIRCULAR fisheyes (like the 7mm, 7.5 & 8mm 35mm fisheyes). I was just pointing out that the 4x5" circular image with these lenses can be cropped to its original, rectangular 6x7 format -- it's still a 180° fisheye image, just FULL-FRAME, not CIRCULAR. Which to use? Depends on the subject and the photographer.
Happy shooting.
Any lens will give you a circular image if the film is larger than the image circle. BUT, the image will only be a fisheye if it is a non-rectilinear optic. For example, in 35mm format, you can have a 15mm full-frame fisheye with a 180° angle of view, and a 15mm full-frame rectilinear with a 110° angle of view. The difference -- besides the angle of view -- is mainly that one produces straight lines as straight, the other, as curved.
So if you like circular images, the world is your oyster -- but there's no need to buy new lenses or a larger format camera! Just put a narrow lens hood on whatever wide-angle lens you have.
...but to get the "little world" effect a true fisheye is much more effective!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bfce2271_b.jpgGreat Sand Dunes Ntl Monument SW Colorado 1992 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Sunrise at the Great Sand Dunes National Monument SW Colorado late 1980s. 4x5 Sinar Norma, HP5 (not +) PMK+ dev 90mm F8 Norma Super Angulon. Norma Yellow Glass FIlter, 8x10 Foma fibre paper Dektol developer. Omega DII Omegalite head 180mm black Rodagon.
What a lovely experience this was. Quite a long hike to get to this spot. Who says you can't use Monorail View Cameras in the field? :)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7df09deb_b.jpgCuyahoga Falls 8x10 HP5 PMK 240 Symmar Ektalure R by Nokton48, on Flickr
Late 1980s Cuyahoga Falls 8x10 Sinar Norma 240 Symmar HP5 (not +) PMK+ Ektalure 8x10 print Ektanol Print Developer. Using a lot of tilt correction. Focus on the far, then tilt until the near is sharp.