http://www.adweb.co.uk/ian/photograp...ges/img010.jpg
Beeston Regis, Norfolk, UK. Speed Graphic, 127/4.7 Ektar, TMax 400
Printable View
http://www.adweb.co.uk/ian/photograp...ges/img010.jpg
Beeston Regis, Norfolk, UK. Speed Graphic, 127/4.7 Ektar, TMax 400
Beautifull shots, Nikolay and Jiri!
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...cool/Creek.jpg
Kaslo River, east of Retallack, British Columbia, Canada, Dec 30, 2010
Sinar P2 8x10, T-Max 400, 300mm Sinar Sinaron-S, contact Printed on Ilford MG FB and scaned on my crappy HP scanjet 4850
Thanks a lot, Eduard, Nană and Peter.
Thanks Allen. I like it too, but I am annoyed about the flare / light leak in the lower left margin. This was from a home-made cigar box pinhole, with the film holder held with rubber bands, so there was likely a small leak or something around the back. I'm going to try to add some kind of light trip around the periphery of the holder to mitigate this kind of thing because I love shooting with this "camera".
Frank,
You can determine the theoretical f-stop of a pinhole from the diameter and distance to film. I don't remember the numbers for this one (actually, the FL is 25mm so you can work back to the pinhole size), but in theory it's about f/150 and so I treat it as f/200 when metering. Typically I don't bother metering because in bright sunlight and ISO 100 film it's always around 10 seconds, and once you get a couple of stops over that you can pretty much just guess the exposure (ie, leave it exposing for a long time) and be fine, erring on the side of overexposure. In light cloud I shoot for a minute or two. In shadow 5 mins or more (exact exposure time not very critical).
There are two competing factors, as you probably know. Reciprocity error is one (needing more exposure than theoretical to account for chemical reactivity of the emulsion at low light levels)... and the simple doubling of exposure times needed for a theoretical gain of one stop exposure... Whether you leave it open for 3 minutes or 5 minutes, at best you add an extra 2/3 stop (no big deal for B&W film).
Short answer: in bright sun I just shoot 10 seconds. In dimmer situations I tend to go with 5 minutes. In really dark situations; as long as I can stick around. Haven't tried night shooting; probably wouldn't have enough time between sun down and sun-up to get the exposure.
I do actually meter and try to account for reciprocity when doing colour slides though.
-Walter
To get a very useful Pinhole resource try here:
http://www.pinhole.cz/en/pinholedesigner/
Hope its usefulQuote:
PINHOLEDESIGNER 2.0
PinholeDesigner is a program for Windows and is aimed at making the calculations for designing and using pinhole cameras easier. Amongst its main features are calculations for the optimal diameter of the pinhole and the exposure times for pinhole cameras.
This program offers:
– calculation of the optimal diameter of the pinhole
– calculation of the optimal focal length
– calculation of the f number for a given combination of pinhole and focal length
– calculation of the exposure factor for f 22
– calculation of the exposure times for a given f number of the pinhole camera
– calculation of the extended exposure times due to reciprocity failure for the majority of commonly used films
– saving exposure table as Microsoft Excel file or text file
– calculation of the angle of view, with diagram
– calculation of the magnification and size of the subject on light-sensitive material
– calculation of the zone plate with optional number of zones
– calculation of the f number for the zone plate
– saving the zone plate in Adobe PDF format
– conversion of millimetres to inches and back
nn :)
Near San Diego
5X7 - 450 Nikkor M
Efke Pl 100 - Pyrocat HD
JandC Nuance - MAS Amidol