Hunting Island Sunrise at High Tide
Mercury 4x5 3D-printed camera, 47mm XL, TMX, Pyrocat, cropped slightly to 1:1
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UE_zGgUVP...nd-5330sqs.jpg
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Hunting Island Sunrise at High Tide
Mercury 4x5 3D-printed camera, 47mm XL, TMX, Pyrocat, cropped slightly to 1:1
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UE_zGgUVP...nd-5330sqs.jpg
Very good!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran
Thanks! It's tough to find a good composition when rushing to get setup in the early-morning light and find something as the sun is starting to rise. I just grabbed the Mercury / 47mm and made a good guess at a composition with the tree in the foreground jutting out and shot 3 sheets (one color sheet to be developed).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...efe3cc64_b.jpg
8x10 inch glass negative, wet plate collodion process.
Darlot Petzval lens used, 23 seconds exposure at approx f3.5
Wonderful!Quote:
Originally Posted by paulbarden
Thank you Ben!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Calwell
Steve, do I recall correctly that some of your shots of the Grand Canyon and Arizona desert were rather long exposures, on the scale of minutes rather than seconds?
If so, I'd like to know more, the why, how, what, as well as dealing with reciprocity with long exposure times. It looks like something I'd like to experiment with.
Thanks.
Sure. I will put up details shortly. Will pm as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x6TLL
The primary reason is I shoot before the sun has come up and after it has gone down, 2nd is because I shoot at f/32 most of the time using iso100 film for bw/Extar and 160 for Portra. This necessitates upwards of 3-5 minute exposures. Add on a 3 stop red filter and it can be more. For night shots I will do really long exposures partly from reciprocity. I try to use Tmax or Acros as they have the best reciprocity. For color it can get tricky with color casts if the exposure is too long and then you need a color filter to correct for it (but I have done that yet)Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x6TLL
Another reason for a long exposure is motion blur of water/clouds and to remove people from the scene who tend to walk thru it like when photographing architecture where I will use a 5 stop, 16 stop nd filter. I need to complete my set out of grad nd and nd filters as well as my rgb, and set of bw filters.
I will put together the how and send to you tonight I hope. It is a really cool form of shooting. Especially if you make a super long exposure, like over 24 hours (which I have not done yet, but want to try).