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That's odd I developed two 11x14 sheets of double sided X-Ray film (essentially 4 sheets if normal film) and 2 sheets of 5x7 normal film in only 10ml of Rodinal with perfectly fine results. I can't imagine a single 8x10 needs 10ml.
Please elaborate on this 10ml perspective.
The Rodinal datasheet says a 500ml bottle of concentrate will process 50 films.
I defined a "film" previously.
Quoting from page 5 of the Rodinal datasheet:
"Yield
One-shot developer.
With 500 ml concentrate about fifty films (135-36 or 120 rollfilm) can be developed."
- Leigh
The 10ml/film is not a hard and fast rule, Stone. As evidenced by the results. Just the suggestion of the manufacturer for typical usage - just like ISO.
Well not sure if I should speak up as I am fairly new, but I use 10ml for 3 sheets of 4x5 in 1000ml of water for stand development.
The negatives are fairly ok and have less contrast but prints easily in darkroom on a higher grade filter..Plus its so easier to handle especially when I do stand development for an hour as I don't have to worry about temparatures and agitation much...
Scans way better in my limited experience......
Of course you can. That's the whole idea, to exchange information.
Using the manufacturer's recommendation you can do up to four 4x5 sheets in 10ml of concentrate.
Four 4x5 sheets equals a single 8x10 sheet equals one "roll" as far as developer consumption is concerned.
Standard Rodinal development times do vary with temperature. I expect that requirement sort of disappears with stand development, as long as your room temperature is not extreme.
As long as the results are what you want, that's all that matters.
Good shooting.
- Leigh
I have used stand development with Rodinal in room temps from 19°C through to 27°C with many films, Fomapan 100, Acros 100, Delta 100, FP4+, T-Max 100.. All 1hr at 1:100 with one inversion at the 30 minute mark.... It rarely yields the BEST possible negative, but I have never blown highlights no matter how I've exposed the scene. I've found that the temperature has little to no affect on stand development, and the resulting negative almost always has a very flat feel (lacking contrast) which is why I tend to use it.. if I've shot something that I know has a tonal range outside of what the film is capable of holding using a standard development, I simply unload that holder into my "Stand box" No matter what type of film it is, I just make sure I expose the scene entirely for the shadows, throw the neg in the stand box then when I've got 12 in there, I load them into the 2551, all different films, different speeds, brands, you name it.. mix up my rodinal at 1:100 and pour it in for an hour.
It's never failed me yet...