Should I Drum Scan, X1 Flextight Scan, or use the Epson V850 w/Aztek Wet Mount Kit?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by manfrominternet

Do I even need ANR glass? What if I kept my negative elevated from the lightbox and mask it like this guy does? (Starts at 1 minute into this video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHz5...m&index=5&t=0s

(Yes, this is the same video I included in my previous post.)

---

You may not. If you're putting the film emulsion side to the glass then 'in theory' it should not produce newton rings. It also doesn't degrade the scan so I just use ANR glass to be on the safe side.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sperdynamite

I like that he still doesn't understand how pixel shift works so he just continues to be wrong, but with wonderful aplomb.

---

Scan, single shot, with the DSLR, and you learn what pixel shift does or not does. You won't find more than effective 30MPix effective.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pere Casals

Scan, single shot, with the DSLR, and you learn what pixel shift does or not does. You won't find more than effective 30MPix effective.

---

I see the bullshit fountain still works.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by manfrominternet

Do I even need ANR glass? What if I kept my negative elevated from the lightbox and mask it like this guy does? (Starts at 1 minute into this video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHz5...m&index=5&t=0s

(Yes, this is the same video I included in my previous post.)

---

Just try and see how it works.
And well, yes If you can keep it flat enough you'll be fine. and 'enough' is not absolute, it depend on how much unsharpness you think is ok.

As stated before. The reason to wet mount or use glass holders with AN glass at the back is to keep the focus plane flat. And glass holders still produce newton rings with some films. I've had problems with this and Velvia 50.

There is no such thing as the perfect scan. There are always tradeoffs. Depth of field against limiting resolution from diffraction. Wetmounting against glassless holders exchanging an even focus plane with scanning speed. Or flat focus and speed but newton rings instead. And so on for ever.
And you won't know what works for you from the beginning. The only way to find out is by trying and experimenting, scanning, postprocess and printing. Iterating and evaluating over and over again. And then you will start to get a an idea.

Trust me. I've gone the long way from crap- to drum-scanners and back. You can jump start to a certain extent, but you need a lot of experience too.
So whatever makes sense now is OK, just start to scan and evaluate. And remember it's going to change.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sperdynamite

I see the bullshit fountain still works.

---

Your DSLR, single shot with p shift, will take some 30MPix effective from a 4x5, a V850 will take some 140, a 4000dpi drum scan will take some 200MPix effective and a 8000dpi one will take some real 400MPix. Your DSLR with Pixel shift: 30MPix effective, baby.


Your rude wording does not hide your deep ignorance. Gang wording normally comes from abnormal family structure combined with substandard education, but it's up to you showing what you are, baby. :) Take it with some humor.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pere Casals

Your DSLR, single shot with p shift, will take some 30MPix effective from a 4x5, a V850 will take some 140, a 4000dpi drum scan will take some 200MPix effective and a 8000dpi one will take some real 400MPix. Your DSLR with Pixel shift: 30MPix effective, baby.


Your rude wording does not hide your deep ignorance. Gang wording normally comes from abnormal family structure combined with substandard education, but it's up to you showing what you are, baby. :) Take it with some humor.

---

Prove it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lassethomas

Just try and see how it works.
And well, yes If you can keep it flat enough you'll be fine. and 'enough' is not absolute, it depend on how much unsharpness you think is ok.

As stated before. The reason to wet mount or use glass holders with AN glass at the back is to keep the focus plane flat. And glass holders still produce newton rings with some films. I've had problems with this and Velvia 50.

---

Even at 155mp with nothing to flatten the Portra 160 4x5 I scanned today I had no flatness issues. If the film was obviously curling I'd simply tape or weigh down the edges. Every case is slightly different of course but I scanned a lot of sheet film and pixel peeped the images pretty hard, no real focus issues. With roll film though heck yeah you're going to need something to hold things flat. That's why I generally go for Bessler carriers for 120.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sperdynamite

Prove it.

---

Regarding drums, here there is an accurate evaluation, see table
https://www.onlandscape.co.uk/2011/1...ra-comparison/

Attachment 197304

That test was performed by Tim Parkin, Joe Cornish, Dav Thomas and the Phase One representative in the UK: Chris Ireland. These people have way more wisdom than me, I don't know if you have more or less, but you may check their CV.

_________________


Regarding V700, you have here the ratings https://www.largeformatphotography.i...-Drum-Scanners

Pali K measurements with his V700 say is 2900x5x2300x4, this is 133 MPix effective. With my V850, with accurate scans (optimal height, etc) I measured 180 MPix, but I concede a common V850 scans may deliver around 140.

_________________


Regarding your SR1 camera, download and print a USAF 1951 TARGET (http://www.takinami.com/yoshihiko/ph..._test/USAF.pdf), shot it, and calculate what you have, it takes less than 5min. You will find around 30 Mpix effective for a good single shot, with or without shift. The Shift removes color artifacts in sensors lacking LPF.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vt5u0skkqa...50010.jpg?dl=0

I have no idea how to read this chart but it seems like I can see more than my printer was able to resolve. R3000 on it's highest resolution mode.