I haven't done a scientific study, but a few indoor exposures using FOMA100 with times of 1 minute up to 7.5 minutes indicate that the reciprocity curve is a suitable start point.
Regards,
Nick
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I haven't done a scientific study, but a few indoor exposures using FOMA100 with times of 1 minute up to 7.5 minutes indicate that the reciprocity curve is a suitable start point.
Regards,
Nick
Doesn't mean the same factor is necessarily equally applicable to their 200 and 400 films as well.
Here's an excerpt from my practical testing of Fomapan 200. The actual results do not match the extremely pessimistic numbers from the manufacturer's "guesswork".
Fomapan 200 reciprocity characteristics are supposed to be easy to test for so I tried. Well it wasn't so straight forward but three 120 rolls later here are some results:
The exposure level I chase in landscape metering is Zone IV = shade side of tree bark, dark rocks, etc. The question becomes "what exposure time extensions must I give for long exposures so I get the same negative densities for Zone IV as for short exposures?" Answers obtained:
Measure 1 second on the meter...give 1.5 seconds
Measure 2 ... give 4
Measure 3 ... give 7
Measure 4 ... give 12
Measure 6 ... give 18
Measure 8 ... give 28
Measure 10 ... give 40
Measure 14 ... give 48
For photographs of dark scenes I don't apply the full reciprocity correction. I want the final picture to match the scene with empty black shadows, subdued mid-tones, and a few gleaming highlights. Remember also that the shadow parts of the scene will invoke reciprocity failure in the film but the highlights won't. Extending exposure causes a strong increase in contrast because the highlights keep building density but the shadows lag behind. This can be controlled by reduced development. But reduced development can cause a loss of film speed which calls for even more extended exposure; and so on. It is not so simple to make dark scenes look like bright scenes!
Attachment 226309
Event: Aldis Lens Test
Location: Garden at home
Camera: Wista 45VX
Lens(s): Aldis Anastigmat No2 5 3/4" f/6
Film: Foma Fomapan 100
Shot ISO: 80
Light Meter: Weston Master II
Movements: None
Bellows: 160mm (+0)
Exposure: 1/25 @ f/6
Lighting: Overcast - 4:45pm
Mounting: Tripod - Manfrotto
Firing: Bulb pneumatic release
Developer: Ilford Ilfotec-HC(1+31) - 6 mins
Scanner: Epson V800
Post: Adobe Lightroom & Photoshop (dust removal)
Yes, the published chart is reliable.
The necessary compensation grows to 4 stops, but not beyond. I have done quite a few long exposures on Fomapan 100 and always used the chart, never had any problems. It does like a lot of light, better to err on the side of caution and give it plenty when in doubt.
I tested if it really wouldn't go any further beyond 4 stops a few years ago:
https://live.staticflickr.com/3770/9...ee174298_o.jpg
Chamonix 045N-2 + Fujinon 150/5.6
100 minutes (measured 6m @ EI 32, added 4 stops to counter the schwarzschild effect) @ F22 1/2
Fomapan 100
Developed in XTOL 1+2 for 14 min @21C
Color photo with Fomapan 100! :D
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...8&d=1650428164
Composite of 4 shots; 3 with antique Kodak RGB filters + 1 unfiltered straight shot to give extra shadow depth. 4x5 with my B&J View, CZJ 135mm/4,5 on a Packard shutter. Legacy L110 developer.
Negatives digitized with my Nikon D800, raw edited with DxO PhotoLab, and composited with Affinity Photo.
Already posted in the Tri-Color thread, but wanted to share here too. My first attempt at this technique. Excited to do more! And Foma 100 looks to be a nice film for this.
Toyo Field 810 MII
Symmar S 360 (f8)
Foma 100 + HC110 1+47 10min 22C
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...549449b0_h.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ae3b646e_h.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8ff79784_c.jpgPineapple by Tak, on Flickr
Fomapan 400 8x10 contact print on Ilford Art300 paper. Splits Toning Sepia and Selenium. Intrepid 8x10, Nikkor-M 300mm f/9 with Canon 500D close-up lens filter.