Strange Experience in Monument Valley

I was on my way home from Arizona last week and stopped for a couple of nights at Goulding's across the highway from Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. I had read online that the Park had just reopened from the Covid shutdown, so I was eager to drive the 17 mile loop through the valley and perhaps photograph some familiar scenes. I was disappointed to learn at the entrance booth that the 17 mile self-driving tour is still closed, and visitors are limited to the parking lot on the valley rim (unless on a paid tour), but I thought I would at least be able to shoot sunrise the next morning.

The next morning there was only one other photographer (digital of course) there for sunrise. I had just gotten my composition and focus dialed in with my 8x10 and placed a two stop GND in front of my lens when a security guard came out of the Visitor Center and asked us both for our paid receipts. The other guy did not have one and had to leave. I had mine from the day before (good for two days) but the guard told me "no tripods are allowed."

I couldn't believe this. I've been visiting MV for 15 years and have never had anyone tell me I couldn't photograph there. I packed up without getting my shot, but stopped at the entrance booth on my way out. The Parks official at the booth (she had a badge) told me big cameras (the kind that require viewing hoods/dark cloths) are not allowed ("they are too big"), and tripods are not allowed because they "chew up the ground." I had soft rubber feet on my 'pod, no spikes.

I just relate this in case anyone else is planning to visit Monument Valley in the near future. Beware.

The more that the populous is forced into 'cellphone photography only,' the more valuable large format photography becomes.

The power of positive thinking...I like it!

But, MV...I can believe it. Some reservations request no photos at all on their land. I respect such requests.

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Originally Posted by Vaughn

The power of positive thinking...I like it!

But, MV...I can believe it. Some reservations request no photos at all on their land. I respect such requests.

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Originally Posted by Vaughn

The power of positive thinking...I like it!

But, MV...I can believe it. Some reservations request no photos at all on their land. I respect such requests.

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Hey, I respect it, too. That's why I packed up and left. I'm just pointing out this is a big change from pre-covid rules and customs. Hell, I've seen 50 or more photographers with tripods lined up on that rim at sunset plenty of times. It's also truly ironic that MV would not be on anyone's list of places to visit if not for Josef Muench and his large format photographs that Harry Goulding used to bring Hollywood to the valley.

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Originally Posted by Michael Roberts

I just relate this in case anyone else is planning to visit Monument Valley in the near future. Beware.

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Have just scratched this place off my November trip list.


Kent in SD

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Originally Posted by Two23

Have just scratched this place off my November trip list.

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Instead, go a bit north to Valley of the Gods and Muley Point.

Be sure to write the Navajo Tribal Council and let them know of your experience.
Their not posting the information so one and all can easily see it stinks - almost as much as the policy itself.

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Originally Posted by Michael Roberts

Hey, I respect it, too...

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I am sorry -- I did not mean to suggest that you did not, just that such rules extend to other tribal lands.

This not directed at you either, but in my mind, respecting such requests includes respecting the tribes and their reasons behind their requests/rules/laws concerning photography. I respected the temples and shrines rules on photography in Japan. And in the the same way I respect the house rules of friends when I am visiting and I do not tell them that their rules stink.

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Originally Posted by Vaughn

I am sorry -- I did not mean to suggest that you did not, just that such rules extend to other tribal lands.

This not directed at you either, but in my mind, respecting such requests includes respecting the tribes and their reasons behind their requests/rules/laws concerning photography. I respected the temples and shrines rules on photography in Japan. And in the the same way I respect the house rules of friends when I am visiting and I do not tell them that their rules stink.

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The Najaho are in business to satisfy their paying customers. Just because they're native Americans doesn't change the way economics and business works. They can make whatever rules they want. But if it restricts visitors so they don't come, the loss of business might change their minds.

My wife and I stayed there three years ago in their Najaho owned hotel, The View Hotel, right in the valley and spent good money eating and sleeping there. We also spent over two hundred dollars on a Navajo vase. We had a great time and I strongly recommend people stay in their motel as it overlooks the valley and the terraces are a great platform for getting terrific shots. See pix below. The hotel in Goulding is OK but it is a few miles outside the valley. If I wanted to visit now, I would call the manager of the Navajo motel and complain about the restrictions and get a clarification. The motel is owned by the tribe and I'm sure they don't want to lose customers. You could also call one of the Navajo tour guide outfits and ask them. They're in the business to take photographers to the best sites to get great photos. So they would know how to handle the tripod issue and maybe in a position to get it changed.

When I went the only rule I was aware of was that you couldn't go into their back lands on your own without a tour guide from their tribe other than the 17 miles valley drive. That seems reasonable and it behooves visitors to pay their reasonable guide rates as they know where to go for the best shots. Otherwise, you can take the guideless car drive for 17 miles, which is what we did, and still get wonderful shots, with or without a tripod.

One other rule that was in effect then. No alcoholic beverages are sold in the valley or on Navajo land.

Taken from The View Hotel room balcony. All balconies face out into the valley.

https://live.staticflickr.com/1871/3...d352bc4e_b.jpg
Monument Valley 5 by Alan Klein, on Flickr

No, not everything revolves around maximizing profits. And, no, I doubt tripod users are in significant numbers to sway the tribe. The rules seem to encourage the use (more business) of their hotel as a photo platform, as shown by you giving them free advertising.

One can't really blame the Navajos for managing (or monetizing) their land as they see fit.

That said, I will no longer photograph in a number of places on the reservation just because they have become either too restrictive or too touristy. Horseshoe Bend now has a gigantic parking lot and shuttles. Last time I photographed it, I had to search for the not-very-worn trail through the tall brush on the side of the highway and hike back to it. I was the only one there for a long time; eventually another couple came by. That was it for the two hours or so I was there.

Ditto with both the Antelope canyons. I have fond memories of being let in to Lower Antelope by the Navajo caretaker. I'd pay and he'd just hang the open padlock on the gate and tell me to lock up when I left. I spent entire afternoons alone in the canyon with my camera. I'd set up a shot, open the shutter for the 15-20 minute exposure and just walk the canyon looking for my next possibility. Now, they take 45 people an hour through there; even more through Upper Antelope. No way I'm ever going back.

Monument Valley's been off my list for a while too, along with Coyote Buttes, "The Wave," etc.

There are other, less-traveled and just as expressive places to photograph, places that haven't had their images hackneyed and pasted up on every Instagram and Snapchat board one can imagine.

Y'all can spend all the time you want at those places; you won't find me there though.

Best,

Doremus

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Originally Posted by Two23

Have just scratched this place off my November trip list.


Kent in SD

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I did the same over a decade ago just after one quick stop on my drive through.
There are plethora of other beautiful and quiet "places nobody knows".

You gotta go off-season.

It's probable that with a pre-arranged official tribal guide you could use your large format gear, tripod n' all. Covid circumstances might temporarily alter that option, and perhaps they are having problems handling too many people at once as they try to open things back up. The Navajo Reservation has been hit especially hard with the virus. I'd personally rather have some place to myself less crowded or cliched. There is an awful lot to potentially photograph in that whole area. Why does everyone want to photograph the same thing?

I decided Willie's advice to contact someone was good, so I wrote a note about my experience on the Contact page form for the Navajo Nation Parks & Rec Service (https://navajonationparks.org/contact-us/) and asked if it is true that tripods and view cameras are not allowed.

I received a reply that merely stated a photo permit is needed to photograph in MV. Clicking the link on the page pops up a window that says permits start at $100. Clicking the Book link on the pop up window brings up a brief form which, when I completed it, shows my permit cost to be $11. I replied to the earlier email I received asking whether I owed $100 or $11, as I was confused. I have not received a reply to this question.

There is a much longer, onerous multi-page pdf application here: https://navajonationparks.org/permit...m-photography/
This seems to be a one-size-fits-all form for movie productions as well as individual photographers. I have a lot of questions as to how to complete this form and how my cost would be determined.

I then did a google search and turned up this account by Joe Becker of his experience several years ago with getting photo permits. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I thought I would just link to his account for anyone interested. https://joebeckerphoto.wordpress.com...raphy-permits/ This is a pretty hilarious read about bureaucratic efficiency (oxymoron alert), in any case.

Joe's experience is similar to many experiences I have had with Navajo officialdom over the past 15 years (no disparagement intended, just facts). Like, Joe, I have never encountered either a ranger or a tribal police officer while photographing in MV. For $11, though, I will give the online permit a shot the next time I go.

And, as Drew suggests, I have no doubts all would be well with regard to tripods and view camera if you hire a Navajo guide or go on a commercial photo tour. One such is Phillips, online at monumentvalley.com.

Don't take this the wrong way, but I've been to both places more than once: the Dine' are acting just like Italians.

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Originally Posted by Michael Roberts

I decided Willie's advice to contact someone was good, so I wrote a note about my experience on the Contact page form for the Navajo Nation Parks & Rec Service (https://navajonationparks.org/contact-us/) and asked if it is true that tripods and view cameras are not allowed.

I received a reply that merely stated a photo permit is needed to photograph in MV. Clicking the link on the page pops up a window that says permits start at $100. Clicking the Book link on the pop up window brings up a brief form which, when I completed it, shows my permit cost to be $11. I replied to the earlier email I received asking whether I owed $100 or $11, as I was confused. I have not received a reply to this question.

There is a much longer, onerous multi-page pdf application here: https://navajonationparks.org/permit...m-photography/
This seems to be a one-size-fits-all form for movie productions as well as individual photographers. I have a lot of questions as to how to complete this form and how my cost would be determined.

I then did a google search and turned up this account by Joe Becker of his experience several years ago with getting photo permits. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I thought I would just link to his account for anyone interested. https://joebeckerphoto.wordpress.com...raphy-permits/ This is a pretty hilarious read about bureaucratic efficiency (oxymoron alert), in any case.

Joe's experience is similar to many experiences I have had with Navajo officialdom over the past 15 years (no disparagement intended, just facts). Like, Joe, I have never encountered either a ranger or a tribal police officer while photographing in MV. For $11, though, I will give the online permit a shot the next time I go.

And, as Drew suggests, I have no doubts all would be well with regard to tripods and view camera if you hire a Navajo guide or go on a commercial photo tour. One such is Phillips, online at monumentvalley.com.

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I'd call one of the Navajo guide outfits and ask them about tripods and permits. Permits seem to be for commercial photography not for the average photographer.
https://navajonationparks.org/guided...our-operators/

In the non-commercial mode, they do tend to be suspicious of outsiders, even other tribes. I can understand why; it's complicated. But having grown up with Indians, I have at times struck up conversations with Navajo which got me invited onto their private land. I particularly recall the time one of them led both me and my wife out across a long sandstone bench behind their ranch, with all of us carrying buckets of water to pour into the many tyrannosaur tracks to make them especially apparent. Quite a treat.