Photographing blue prints

Any advice on photographing blue prints on black and white film? I am figuring that deep yellow filter will bring out the contrast. Would a red 25 be better, or is that overkill?

I wouldn't go overboard on contrast enhancement. Remember you must deal with finger prints, fold lines, and other degradations.

- Leigh

Good point. Sounds like test exposures are in order.

I vote for an orange filter for bringing out the cyan, and not over-develop to keep the other imperfections to a minimum.

However, if the base paper is also a light blue (cyan), then the filter might not do much.

Have you considered Ortho 3 film? And process in Litho chemicals?

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Originally Posted by Bill Suderman

Have you considered Ortho 3 film? And process in Litho chemicals?

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I'd agree--I generally use Ilford's ortho film for copy work, though I've never used litho chemicals (I'm not actually sure what they are....).

Bruce

Why not go to FedEx/Kinko and scan the blueprints? You will be able to digitally store and or out put in any way you choose.

FedEx/ Kinko or in my area the UPS stores have wonderful copier / scanners. I do bussness at the UPS store in my town and can copy all of my old architectural prints onto discs for storage if I need to. It would be quick and easier to reprint in the future - especially to full size. Years ago I photographed drawn images with 4x5 ortho film and used A and B developer / or dektol
to develop the ortho. I then would print using standard paper - for a portfolio size to fit in a 8 1/2x11 inch portfolio -it was a way around getting a PMT (a direct positive process offered at the time). With ortho film you can use red opaque to spot the negitives and also use red tape to take out information. This was a typical method in the graphic arts business before digital.

You should be able to eyeball it through the various filters and get a decent idea of what's going to happen, at least if you're using panchromatic film.