Safelight for Ziatype & Platinum/Palladium?

My 40 watt yellow Bug light bulb, dating from probably the 1970s, finally died.

Went to out local hardware store and found the following options:
Westinghouse Bug Light 60 watts A19 A-Line Incandescent Bulb E26 (Medium) Yellow: probably too bright
FEIT Electric A19 E26 (Medium) LED Bulb Yellow 60 Watt: Can LED bulbs be used?
Westinghouse 25 watts A19 A-Line Incandescent Bulb E26 (Medium) Amber: probably OK
60-Watt Equivalent T3 Spiral CFL Yellow Light Bulb: CFL bulbs give off UV light?
Sylvania 25-Watt Double Life G16.5 Incandescent small round Light Bulb
Does anyone use any of the above light bulbs?

or ????

Actual user suggestions most welcome.

thanks

I found a good LED safelight for my alt processes at Home Depot a while back that looks like it will be pretty good as the manufacturer said it has no uv output with a color temp of 2100 k.
Fein BPAT19/LED 60 watt equivalent 4.5 watt.

I have used the 60W bug lights (incandesent) with no problems -- although I air dry the coated sheets in the dark.

I concur with the 60w yellow bulb.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I also have used bug lights for 10 years w/o any problems and dry the coated sheets with a small hand-held hair dryer -- works great.

I do not use a special colored bulb with Pt, Pd, or ZIatype.
I use a regular 60 watt incandescent bulb which is 6-7 feet away from my work area. I have used this since 1990 with no problems. The one thing I Made sure of when I built this darkroom was no fluorescent sources.

Ended up getting the FEIT Electric A19 E26 (Medium) LED Bulb Yellow 60 Watt. Am in the process of updating my darkroom so might be a week or two till I test it out. Since I have been coating paper under a "Bug" light for years, prefer it to a low wattage incandescent bulb.

Also replaced the 2'x4' 4 bulb fluorescent lighting units in the suspended grid drop ceiling with 2'x4' replacement LED units. Love them over the fluorescent lighting but they were a bear to wire up. Previous fluorescent lighting fixtures had the wiring come down through the unit and wiring connections made from underneath the unit with a center "V" shaped channel covering up the wiring. The LED units are wired from the top to which since they lie just a few inches under the floor joists are impossible to work on from above the LED units. Also the junction box atop the LED lighting fixture/unit seems to be designed to hold and contain far thinner wires than the 12-2 wires that I used to wire up the fluorescent units. Had to install 4x4 junction boxes above the units to hold the 12-2 wires and a lot thinner gauge wires running down to the LED units. I have a graphiclite "professional desktop viewer" which I use to inspect wet and dry prints with. To my eyes the LED units match the light quality of the graphiclite many times better than the previous fluorescent units.

I would use a CD and check insure the LED's are not putting out UV. My similar tubes in the train shed do so.
I found it best to remove ALL fluorescent fixtures from the darkroom.