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Hi folks,
When I develop Provia 100F with the Tetenal kit using my Jobo CPA2 I use slightly longer developing times then what is stated in the Tetenal instructions. And I suspect Im not the only one doing this.
With Ektachrome now on larger formats... did anyone develop this film themselves? And if so, did you extend the times compared to what is stated in the instructions for better (or worse) results?
Cheers
Peter
Peter,
This might not be very helpful but I have processed it only in the 35 format so far and everything was processed at recommended temps and times. I have also never extended the time for Provia or Velvia with the same exact combo (CPP2 and Tetenal E6) and have consistently gotten intended results.
I did just get 120 fresh rolls delivered this week and a box of 4x5 should also be arriving soon. I’ll update my experience in this thread once I shoot process those but my goal at the time being is to process at recommended times at 38c (100f) temperature. The only variation I sometimes do is blix for a little longer around 8/9 minutes if mixed chemicals have been used more than 3 times.
Regards,
Pali
Hey,
Thanks. I suppose it might mean that I will have to develop Ektachrome the same way I develop my Provia (7:15). If I develop according to the Tetenal instructions the colors are to deep... or contain to much black (Im not sure how to explain it). Searching abit online it seemed like some people meant that Provia needed slightly more time than many other slide films (ie Kodak actually). After extending the time I got the results I expected, and intended :-)
I guess the only way to figure this out though is to try it and see whatever happens.
Im keen to learn what you figure out though.
Thanks again.
Peter
I will use the Tetenal instructions for developing Ektachrome, and continue to give Provia and Velvia slightly longer times in the first developer.
For some reason there's notes in the old Jobo literature about Fuji films requiring 7'30" vs. 6'30" in 1st developer . These are all empirical in nature. I've had better results overall when sticking to 6'30" especially with fresh developer.
With E6, I auto bracket 1/2 stop when shooting 35mm. But with 120 Provia F I've had excellent results using an incident meter, exposing normally and using the starting 6'30". Doesn't matter if it's a Tetenal kit or full blown Fuji Pro6 chemistry.
But as you have found sometimes you establish your own personal times that work best for your workflow.
I’ve seen the additional time outlined in the CPP manual but have yet to test beyond the stated time in the chemical manuals. Of additional interest is Jobo’s new 2020 catalog where they state that there should be a pre-wash. The way it’s worded assumes it’s for all film.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duolab123
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In my experience the FD times that people state are entirely dependent on personal practice, esp. in the nature of when you set the timer in relation to when you pour the chemistry in and out. It's also worth saying that even 30" difference is going to be less than 1/3 of a stop (pushing 1 stop in the Tetenal E6 kit instructions is an extra 2' at 38C/100F), so even with e.g. Velvia it's not going to matter as much as some may think. I have successfully developed my own Fujifilm slides using 7'10" FD on the Jobo, timed exactly from when I poured the FD chemistry in to the moment when I started pouring in the first wash. No problems; yet to try Ektachrome.
I agree with you. Thermometers can be tricky, most lab thermometers require 76mm immersion, best held in a clamp on a ring stand etc. 1/3 rd of a stop can make or break a good slide. MHOFWIW.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveF
Jobo machines are very nice, but still a lot of variables that aren't there in a really well maintained commercial dip and dunk set up.
One thing I do with my Jobos is I use bigger tanks and maximum volume of solution.
If you are in a 68°F darkroom and you are developing 1 roll of 35mm, and you pour 125mL of developer through a room temperature Jobo lift what's that do to the temperature of the solution?
The instructions to pre-wash is new to me. I have always used a couple of pre washes going back way before I had a Jobo to insure everything was at desired temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by nbagno
Is this information on Jobo Germany or Jobo USA?
As far as I know - Jobo Germany... but I think they also say that if you have been doing it without and that works - keep doing that.
I dont pre wash E6 and Im not starting now.