Ilford Delta 100 - exposure, latitude, filtration

Hi Folks,

Relatively new to LF and been using colour positive and negative films so far. Am happy with my ability to meter a scene. With negative colour I've basically been setting shadows at -2 (zone III if you like) and then given it's dynamic range (to +8 (?)) let the highlights land where they want. Eventually I will scan images.

I am going to have a go with Ilford Delta 100 for some b&w work. Film will be sent out for processing (Ilford labs, using Ilford Ilfotech DD) and will eventually scan images (Epson V700). I've read around a bit around the film and have a few questions:

1) Is the film tricky to expose? What is the exposure latitude of the film? Can I set shadows (-2 or -3 ??) and let the highlights go or am I eventually limited by my decision to scan with a flatbed, so I would need highlights at +3 or +4 max.?

2) I've read confusion around how senstive the film is to filtration and that you need "stronger than you'd expect"...my aim is to effectively filter, but be subtle. Is this true? Does this depend on processing chemicals? Would a yellow 12 be preferred over a yellow 8 for example? Orange 21 over yellow-orange 16?

Many questions I know.

Cheers

Graham

And one more....

3) Preferred ISO rating? I've read from 100 down to 50!

Graham

If you're going to send the film to the Ilford lab, you can assume they have a very consistent process. The first assignment you should give yourself is a film test. Your metering and exposure methods will be your own. Write everything down, put a little piece of paper with a number in each shot so you know which is which, and send the film. It's the only way you will know for sure. Do it once and you're finished.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Meekyman

And one more....

3) Preferred ISO rating? I've read from 100 down to 50!

Graham

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I don't use filters so i can't speak to that.... but I use this film and like it very much - in fact I think its terrific. I develop it using a Jobo and Xtol 1:1. It rates right at 100 for me. Plenty of shadow detail.

The only problem I have is with the words "Eventually I will scan the images". I would suggest that you shoot, develop, scan and print. then do it over and over again until you have mastered your process. You won't be able to do that if you don't go thru until the end of the process... I love it when I make a "perfect negative" - which would be specifically perfect for me. It means its capable of making a great print. In any process you have to start with the end product and work backwards. It would be unfortunate if you made a lot of negs based upon a presumption which was incorrect and ended up with negs you couldn't print the way you wanted.

Lenny

1) If you're truly using the (a) zone system, as you seem to suggest that you are, you will know where to place your shadows, and whether to let the highlights "go" based upon their importance to your composition. Some developers (ostensibly Pyro) may be more amenable to that approach. Or, exactly the reverse, if your highlights take precedence. Otherwise, if the scene's luminance exceeds the latitude of your film (in terms of "zones"), you can (see #2) contract development, or ask your processing lab to pull the film a stop or two, using their guidance.

2) Exactly what Peter said.

3) See #2.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lenny Eiger

I don't use filters so i can't speak to that.... but I use this film and like it very much - in fact I think its terrific. I develop it using a Jobo and Xtol 1:1. It rates right at 100 for me. Plenty of shadow detail.

The only problem I have is with the words "Eventually I will scan the images". I would suggest that you shoot, develop, scan and print. then do it over and over again until you have mastered your process. You won't be able to do that if you don't go thru until the end of the process... I love it when I make a "perfect negative" - which would be specifically perfect for me. It means its capable of making a great print. In any process you have to start with the end product and work backwards. It would be unfortunate if you made a lot of negs based upon a presumption which was incorrect and ended up with negs you couldn't print the way you wanted.

Lenny

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I agree with Lenny on both counts.

Dela 100 is right on at ASA 100 as advertised. Phil Davis, who developed BTZS, recommended it as the standard film in testing to determine the relative speed of other films.

Second, take everything from the beginning to the end until you understand and know how to repeat your results. I have personally made many mistakes by the incorrect assumption that one of the intermediary stages would come out OK. Assumptions will often cost money and time, and wrong results can be depressing. Experimentation is important to learning, but never trust important work to chance.

Sandy

Thanks Everyone for your thoughts.

I can not go through to the end and print, as yet, simply because I do not own a scanner nor a powerful enough computer to handle the subsequent large files. I also have to learn quite a lot about actually taking the photos in the first place, and there's never enough time, let alone cash to splurge, to do everything at once! I have sent some colour negatives out for commercial scanning and done a few test prints on my current computer/printer and realised it's limits. Once I am happy with handling the camera, then I will shift to the scanning side of things.

Cheers

Graham

P.S In the end I have bought a standard kit of filters - yellow 8, yellow/green 11, orange 21 and red so I will find the answers myself to that question at least.