Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
Thanks Peter for the info and link, you made my day. To know that this company is still in business and doing what they've done for a long time just warms the cockles of my heart. I guess it's because of all the changes (losses) in the photo industry. And again I'll vouch that they (now custombellows) make a very fine product.
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
You could make your own bellows. Tedious, but do-able. Non-tapering is easier than tapered, but there are instructions either on this site or on the net. I think Harlan may be a key word to look up.
Fwiw, people also grind lenses and make emulsions too...not sure how far you have to go to call it DIY!
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Fr. Mark
You could make your own bellows. Tedious, but do-able. Non-tapering is easier than tapered, but there are instructions either on this site or on the net. I think Harlan may be a key word to look up.
Fwiw, people also grind lenses and make emulsions too...not sure how far you have to go to call it DIY!
Thank you. I looked into making bellows and it seems that it will take a great bit of time to get it right especially for one at this size. I feel that I can rely on being able to control the quality of the camera but not the bellows.
For ground glass, I will be doing this myself using #400 and #600 carbide grit. I should have most of the parts delivered by next week and the build will start soon after.
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
very cool Pali good luck with your project please post pictures as you are putting it together
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Paul Metcalf
Well, I'm looking at a receipt that says "Camera Bellows" that came with my camera bellows that was made in Nov 2003 for a Conley 8x10 camera. The address is from Birmingham UK, but it lists the web address as "www.leefilters.com." I have a bunch of Lee Filters items that I use, but I simply don't remember getting this bellows from them. It makes sense that they could make bellows because they make the filter lens hoods for their systems which are kind of bellow-ishy LOL. I looked at their website, but it isn't obvious as to whether or not they make bellows, and since this was nearly 12 years ago I simply don't remember going through them to get my replacement Conley bellows. But, you might send them an email and tell them some crazy old fart got a bellows from them 12 years ago and can they make you one LOL. It was 180 pounds (money not weight) shipped 12 years ago to the US (Seattle) and it's awesome (heavy, well made). Unless you go with something used or hand-made I suspect THIS will be the most expensive part of your camera.
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
Camera Bellows no longer exists, they restarted under the name Custom Bellows Ltd in 2008
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
I just think a frame (sturdier) and not pillars for the front standard...
Do you intend to make it fold up into the rear?
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
Remember that people are constantly throwing out old flatbed scanners wherein there are belts and lead screws of all sorts(support recycling) :-)
Tons of good wishes with the project and I will follow your progress with great anticipation.
Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
I'm interested in how you're going to deal with the back
the back is the only critical part of the camera
I could make a camera with a cardboard box if I had a back with proper dimensions for film plane/gg plane
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Re: 11x14 camera build attempt - Questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ced
I just think a frame (sturdier) and not pillars for the front standard...
Do you intend to make it fold up into the rear?
I agree. For many years I used a B&J flatbed with a front standard much like the ones the OP proposed. That camera incorporated slides and swings in the front standard, and tilts on the lens board frame. It could have been sturdier. If no slides and swings are intended, securing the front standard to the baseboard with a wider base as shown below would be much stronger. Slides can be eliminated if both front and rear standards have swings. In this case, rather than swing and clamp the front standard about a central screw, consider a clamping screw in a slot hear each edge of the front standard. This more directly clamps the front standard to the baseboard rather than relying on minimum torque of the base of the front standard.
As for the focusing screw, for readily available material and items, I'd use a standard hardware store V-threaded brass rod running in a threaded hardwood split nut. Lignum Vitae might be a first choice if available, but I grow an excess of Osage Orange at home. The split nut can be tightened as necessary to minimize backlash.
The support for the rear standard may be versatile, but looks awfully flimsy.
Attachment 138579