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Hi All,
Its nice to be back again. Lost trck of the page for awhile. I have been stric kly a B&W shooter in 4x5. I have a friend that is interested in shooting 4x5, b ut wants to shoot color chromes. He and I are leaving for the the Alvord Desert in SE Oregon on Wed. I told him to get a box of E100VS readyloads. I don't kn ow much about color, but will use a gray card for determining exposure. Should I shoot at 100 or 80 ? I notice that most Velvia shooters shoot at 40 or 50.
Thanks Paul
I just tried some E100VS for the first time in a long time and was very pleasantly surprised. Colors were still very saturated but were much more natural than i remember from my testing a few years back. Overall the colors (grass sky, & bricks) were much cleaner than the Fuji Provia 100F I shot at the same time. I rated the E100VS at an E.I. of 80 an bracketed in 1/3rd of a stop increments around that meter setting. ISO 80 worked best for my equipment and processing but your experience may differ.
The difficulty may be finding E100VS in the Readyload packaging: I think only E100S comes in Readyload, but I might be (and am probably ) wrong about this..
Thanks Ellis. Yes you can get it in readyloads. That is why I suggested he get it instead of Velvia. Velvia would have been nice, because there is so much more experience with it out there. I don't have a Fuji film holder but do have the kodak, thus the decision to use the E100VS.
Paul
Howdy Paul,
Remember, now, Kodak has 2 different holders for their Readyloads. I'll have to let Ellis or one of our other friends explain the difference... m.
Paul, a Kodak single sheet holder doesnt restrict you to using Kodak slide film. I bought one primarily for use with TMAX 100 but do shoot slides too and use exclusively Fuji quickloads. I have had no problems whatsoever.
Dave
Paul, As a B&W photographer you know that you have to get used to your material. Although color processing is much more standardized, the working chain has almost the same error sources. The errors of:
<ul> <li>your meter</li> <li>the true film speed</li> <li>your shutter</li> <li>your diaphragm</li> <li>the transmittance of your lens</li> <li>your processing lab</li> </ul>
may cancel each other or sum up to significant values. So whether to set your meter to 100 or 80 does have to be verified. The true film speed for E100VS is usually ISO 100/21?, if not stated otherwise on the box. Velvia is reported to reach it's nominal speed only in the original Fuji E6-Process and may have a slightly lower speed in other E6-Processes. But Velvia currently seems to be the only film that behaves like that.
Regards,
I don't care how carefully you meter, E6 films are still made and processed by the devil. Since the cheapest part of this trip is going to be the film, I'd suggest that you bracket your exposures. I use an incident meter and my head. "Hmm direct sunlight, could it be 1/ISO @ f16?" You can save a lot of money if you don't bracket. You also can come back with nothing. You pays your money and you takes your chances. Me, I bracket.
I also take all of my large format lenses in to have the shutters checked at least once year. The shutterspeeds are always off and that doesn't bother me all that much as long as I know how much they're off. I take all of the actual/indicated information and make up a cheat sheet in a word processing program on the computer. I then laminate the sheet and bring it with me when I'm shooting. On the other side of this sheet are reciprocity departure information for any film I think that I'm likely to use but that's another story.