Re: Lubricant for Deardorff wood.
I use Renaissance wax on things like that. It goes on thin but adequate, and is proven OK on a lot of fancy materials. It's not like other waxes in that respect.
If you have ever held a block of pure bee's wax, you know that it's actually quite sticky! Paraffin is a little better, but still not impressive as a lube.
Re: Lubricant for Deardorff wood.
I would check for something off kilter first. If it is binding because of that, lubrication could cause further damage or be of no help at all.
The woodworking side of me agrees with Renaissance Wax. But boat repair side of me says a dry lube would be best as it won't pick up grit. All waxes will pick up grit.
I've used Molybdenum disulfide on items, including my Kodak 2D and it is amazing stuff. Expensive though, if you don't use it a lot. I used it in the shop quite a bit. I have also used a #4B pencil lead to good effect. Both will darken the channel but neither will collect grit.
Re: Lubricant for Deardorff wood.
Another idea in the same direction, I have some teflon powder used in lubricating piano actions. I've been using it for all sorts of things--on locks and some places I shouldn't where it has been working fine. And if you don't want it there, it wipes right off. Very slippery, doesn't migrate much, so far.
Re: Lubricant for Deardorff wood.
Teflon is avail in spray form. I use it on my Phillips 8x10. It doesn't decompose into dust, but does leave a bit of whitish stain which could be obvious on a mahogany Dorff if not masked off first. Don't confuse this with ordinary hardware store teflon spray, however, which might contain other things that aren't so good. A sales site like McMaster would be a better place to start because they give good specs.
Re: Lubricant for Deardorff wood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ruilourosa
Hello
Does someone have an idea for lubricating the wood of the deardorff, i´m having some difficulties in moving the rear bed of the camera, it´s a v8
Thanks
Rui Lourosa
As others mentioned, check the alignment. This is easy to do by eyeballing the teeth----they should be equal on both sides of the bed. These might mis-align when the bellows are either compressed or extended to their maximum travel, and can often be easily reset. As for metal to metal or wood to wood surface lubrication, the Deardorff Historical Website has suggestions on what to use. Ken Hough worked at Deardorff and should know.