1 Attachment(s)
Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Attachment 204576
It was always a problem for me to produce Waterhouse stops when they are missing in a vintage lens. Recently I tested with 3D printing and it worked so well that I am sharing the idea here with you. In the picture is a Steinheil Gruppen Antiplanet with a fresh set of stops. It is not classy, but it works. I printed them 0,8 mm thick in black ABS.
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Looks great. Is 0.8mm thick enough?
Now that you have a proper file can this be done in brass from one of the commercial shops?
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Drew, brass is not suitable for laser cut and I don't know what kind of machine and file is used to cut it to a certain shape. I sent already Waterhouse stops files to laser cut, the material was steel, and the requested file extension was .dwg. For 3D, the file used is .stl, the one which is read by the printer slicer.
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Brass can be laser cut but not many companies do it because it needs a special head.
Watercutting is a better option. But if you need 0.8mm or thinner I'd look at etching. Or it could be routed like by a pcb producer in 0.5mm thick pcb.
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lungovw
Drew, brass is not suitable for laser cut and I don't know what kind of machine and file is used to cut it to a certain shape. I sent already Waterhouse stops files to laser cut, the material was steel, and the requested file extension was .dwg. For 3D, the file used is .stl, the one which is read by the printer slicer.
I have not done much in the way of bench crafting anything in a home workshop. I defer to just about anyone on the detasiles of materials and tools, process and technique. Yet, I was under the impression that there are commrcial 3D printing services that will take your own 3D printing file and manufacture an object for a fee. I inderstood that this sort of service was available in various plastics, Aluminum, Brass and Stainless Steel.
Do I have that wrong?
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lungovw
Attachment 204576
It was always a problem for me to produce Waterhouse stops when they are missing in a vintage lens. Recently I tested with 3D printing and it worked so well that I am sharing the idea here with you. In the picture is a Steinheil Gruppen Antiplanet with a fresh set of stops. It is not classy, but it works. I printed them 0,8 mm thick in black ABS.
Great (looking) job! How did you compute the holes?
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ron (Netherlands)
Great (looking) job! How did you compute the holes?
Radius squared times Pi = area of a circle. Calculate the radius of a circle with half the area . . .that should be one stop.
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Drew Bedo
I have not done much in the way of bench crafting anything in a home workshop. I defer to just about anyone on the detasiles of materials and tools, process and technique. Yet, I was under the impression that there are commrcial 3D printing services that will take your own 3D printing file and manufacture an object for a fee. I inderstood that this sort of service was available in various plastics, Aluminum, Brass and Stainless Steel.
Do I have that wrong?
No, you are correct. Search for something like "fablab". They mostly have 3D printing and laser cutting available. For laser and water cutting metal for my live steam engines I just ask a place that does contract steelwork. Because I'm not doing commercial work it takes a bit longer (2-3 weeks) because they just do it between other jobs when time allows. Had some 0.5mm resinboard laser cut at a shop that specialises in signage and promotional stuff they also do mdf, multiplex and plastics.
Re: Using 3D print for Waterhouse stops
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Drew Bedo
Radius squared times Pi = area of a circle. Calculate the radius of a circle with half the area . . .that should be one stop.
Tnx, I wasn't to clear with my question, but looking at your answer (which indeed did help me), I guess I meant to ask how the OP could measure the size of the hole considering he wants to cut/print regular f-stops (as so printed on his whs). So if I have a lens with 300mm focus length and want to make a hole for stop f 22 I would have to cut a hole of 300/22 = 13,6 mm. Likewise for stop f 8 the hole would have to be 300/8 = 37,5 mm - correct?