Just developed a batch of 100 and 200 (of the same subjects at the same settings) to compare, and cannot, because *they have the same notch code*. Who thought that was a good idea???
:-/
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Just developed a batch of 100 and 200 (of the same subjects at the same settings) to compare, and cannot, because *they have the same notch code*. Who thought that was a good idea???
:-/
I've noticed that all (at least all that I've seen) Arista/Foma sheet films just have one notch, of the same size and shape. It lets you orient the film properly, which appears to be its sole function. It would be nice if they would make notches that could be used for identification.Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x6TLL
Ok, I've been trying out some different things with these two films.
Per recommendations here and elsewhere, I've been exposing the 100 ISO as 80, and the 200 as 160. They are now developed separately (100/200 in own batches) rather than together, and I've adjusted the times to suit according to the MDC - 7 minutes in Rodinal 1+50 20C for the 100 ISO and 10 minutes for 200. I also bought the "wings" to add to my Jobo reels and loaded 6 sheets per reel without any problems.
A few here said that the 200 develops fast, although MDC states 8-10 minutes, which doesn't seem too fast to me.
The negatives look ok, not great, not horrible. I'm still seeing some unevenness on the developing, blotches here and there, but more surprising are what look like small spots on a few sheets, some black, some white. I've been very careful to handle by the edges only, as far as I'm aware. If I remember correctly, white spots indicate dust or debris on the emulsion, or missing emulsion, and black spots would be what? I'm using liquid, not powder developer.
Does Fomapan have consistency or coating issues? Or is this probably just a newbie problem, me not being familiar and experienced with sheet film. Thousands of rolls of 120 and I've never once had a problem, but I recognize that this is quite different.
I've also taken to cutting off the corner of the 200 film once I take it out to hang up to dry so that I can identify them later compared to the 100 speed version.
A few samples attached, and a few others I've posted in my developing thread.
Thanks for any input or suggestions you can provide.
Attachment 202683
Attachment 202684
Attachment 202685
Black spots are holes in the emulsion that allow light to pass and turn the paper black. White spots are dust or something that blocks light from reaching the paper, leaving it white. Foma sheet film is pretty well known for having emulsion defects. I once took a nice studio portrait, and it had "skid marks" near the subject's right arm, and on the background area of the image. These were actually scratches in the emulsion, not just tiny dots/pinpoints of missing emulsion. Unfortunately there's no way to predict when or where they'll strike.Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x6TLL
I used a lot of APX100 for my go-to film for many years, (but am running out of it)... All of my developing was calibrated for it... I see there is the Rollei version of it now, but expensive... I had run out of sheet film and 120, but had to try the Foma 100 as it was reviewed as fairly similar characteristics as the APX 100... I was pleasantly surprised that the former dev times were VERY close and the look not very different then the APX 100... You do have to get used to the reciprocity factor thing (but has been reliable), but slightly less sharp than the APX (for smaller formats)... I initially had some pinholes, but changed to a plain water stop, and it was fine... Not crazy about the packaging, but just put wrapped sheet film into old film boxes... No scratches yet after several hundred sheets, but have noticed there can be debris from edge cutting, but it takes a rinse after final wash under a hose or faucet to remove... But no big problems with it (so far)...
With the 120, I hate the sticky bands around roll, but am concerned with the fact that the film tends to cling to the backing paper and does not just roll up on its own before loading (making it hard to separate and handle when loading the reel in a changing bag)... But no issues developing and drying...
Down to my last 100 ft of APX 35mm, but not sure I want to try the Foma 100 for smaller format, but might buy the Rollei 100 ft when I run out (but it's like 100 bucks, and when I bought my last 1,500 ft when discontinued, each cost me about $28)...
I don't mind this film...
Steve K
Having shot a few hundred sheets of Foma 100+200+400, I would say 'barely'. In the 100 version I get the odd (perhaps in 2-5% of the sheets) a single tiny pinhole in the emulsion, i.e. a tiny black spot in the positive/print.Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x6TLL
In roll film 120 format, Foma200 has consistently given me problems with tiny scratches and holes in the emulsion. I reported this to Foma about 2 years ago and they confirmed the issue to me after I had submitted samples to them for analysis. They kindly replaced the defective rolls with new ones from a different production batch, that sadly had the exact same problems. The problem seemed specific and isolated to 120 format and in my experience does not affect sheet film, and probably neither does it occur in 35mm although I am not 100% sure of the latter. It was also isolated to the 200 film and not present in Foma 100.
A friend of mine has noted problems with Foma 100 when used in a Hasselblad back (not in other camera systems he uses!), which was argued by Foma to be particular to the use of this product in a Hasselblad. Could have something to do with the combination of the tension on the film combined with the small diameter of some rollers in the back, which apparently result in tiny emulsion fractures. Again, not related to sheet film in any way.
Overall my experiences with Foma sheet films are quite good given the price; I continue to use them as my main sheet films.
I inspected the negatives closer on a light table, rather than looking at the scans my son took for me. The negatives are much better in person.
There are still multiple tiny specks of white, which I'm guessing must be dust at time of exposure? A few black spots I'm not sure about. But much better than the scans.
Now for the really interesting question - I've learned that when loading film, the notch code always goes top right on the holder so that the emulsion faces towards the lens.
However, while I was inspecting the films, I noted that the emulsion (which if it's anything similar to any other film I've ever used, is the rough side, not the smooth plastic side) faces forward when the notch code is top left (?!?).
Does Foma have a magic emulsion layer that is completely smooth? Perhaps I'm feeling the remains of the anti-halation layer or a sensitizing layer? Or are their codes on the wrong side of the sheet...?
I definitely have a dust problem. I'll start another thread for that.
Thanks for the help so far.
With Foma films, the emulsion side is the 'rough' side as with all other 'classic' films (as opposed to e.g. TMAX100 which basically has two super smooth/shiny sides...). I always load my film with the notch at bottom left having the film holder in front of me in portrait orientation - which of course boils down to the same as having the notch top right. Perhaps you have your holder in landscape orientation? In that case the notch would of course be on the top left with the emulsion side facing towards you.
It's possible to snip off a tiny part on a corner of the film when loading it in the DDS, just for ID later (done this for general testing, not specifically for Foma 100/200). In theory a pinhole punch is usable too, but the one I 'cleverly' bought from an art-shop hardly goes through any sheet-film base as it is meant for paper. Oops. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by MultiFormat Shooter
Ok, now I'm really confused. Let's clear this up with a few pictures.
First (color film) is how I load holders. Flap at bottom, slide at top, film with notch upper right. Always the same. Emulsion should then be facing up, i.e. towards the lens.
Attachment 202753
Second (B&W) is how I load Foma 100 in to holders. Exactly the same as the first film, notch upper right.
Attachment 202754
However.... now the shiny side of the film is facing me, i.e. the lens!
Third is if I reverse the (B&W) sheet so that the rough (e.g. emulsion) side is facing up, i.e. the lens - note that the notch is now in the "wrong" position.
Attachment 202755
Or I've been loading LF sheet film backwards for about a year and getting away with it. Either way, something's wrong, and I want to figure out what.
What's going on here?