Just a test image:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6fjahhode8...Test.jpg?raw=1
D600 + 20AF + Hoya R72 + EI100+ f/8 + a combo of a 30s and 60s exposure.
Printable View
Just a test image:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6fjahhode8...Test.jpg?raw=1
D600 + 20AF + Hoya R72 + EI100+ f/8 + a combo of a 30s and 60s exposure.
It looks good. I think it also looks more 3D.
Thanks, Tuco. I don't know why I didn't try this years ago.
What made you combine two long exposures, Peter?
It looks great, btw.
Thanks Randy!
Ari, the clouds were better in one of them, but in that one the sun came out directly, and I didn't like the look of the buildings as much.
What is "20AF"?
I know ISO and the rest but this one is not something I am familiar with. AF - is AutoFocus?
Hi Willie,
That stands for my old Nikkor 20mm AF lens.
Here's the main file right out of camera:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h8qbsdwq7r...ight.PNG?raw=1
[QUOTE=Peter De Smidt;1602198]https://www.dropbox.com/s/rgunsdvvxy...en_4.jpg?raw=1
V. elegant, Peter. Also like the last one....and don't have a reasonable explanation why :>).
Les
I have seen these homes IRL
Looking good both ways
Thank you, Gentleman! If some of my older acquaintances can be trusted, back in the 1950s the house was a bordello.
Just got my Nikon Z6 back from being converted to IR. 20 minutes ago went to one of my favorite places in town. This is one of the first shots I took with my 24-70mm Z lens. To have auto focus work with IR floors me after having to refocus my lenses when shooting IR up to now. Only bummer was that my 24-200mm Z lens produces an unacceptable hot spot in the center of the frame. Second shot done with 70mm VK70R Kiyohara lens.
Those are neat, Greg. What conversion did you go with?
Anyone have some images that show a direct comparison in B&W of a filter used compared to a converted IR camera body?
I read about the conversions and have used the IR filter in the past. Just don't have a solid comparison to help making the decision to get/buy an
IR specific body. My interest is B&W, not any color at all.
The big difference is the converted cameras are faster, and you can see through the viewfinder. When I put the R72 filter on, I can't see anything. So that use is strictly tripod-only. The color ir filters give more tonal information to make a BW out of, and you can make funky color photos. For instance, when I convert my D600 files to BW, the red, orange and yellow sliders are the only color sliders that have an effect. With the color ir filters, you'd have more color that you could adjust in the conversion, and there might be less of a chance of banding, not that I've seen any so far in my limited use with a filter on lens method. Lifepixel has sample photos made with the different filters on their site.
Leica M8, 25mm f3.5 Canon, R72 1/60 f5.6 at ISO 320
Attachment 216460
Attachment 216461
The M8 does IR easily, but it is basically a dead end camera if anything goes wrong with it.
Peter, this is a great series of the train tressel. Bravo!
Regards,
Pat
Thanks, Pat!
Agree
Thanks, Jon!
Thanks, Andrew. Yep, I'm just using an R72 filter on a regular D600. By any chance, were you using a zoom lens? Did you cover the viewfinder during exposure?
Give it a try. I've only used primes. Make sure to cover the viewfinder. According to Lifepixel, some lenses are known to cause hot spots.
I have an extended silicone cup viewfinder hood. A rear Nikkor lens cap fits over it perfectly.
I hope it works out for you!
Peter, I tried the wide prime on a D850, with the R72, and I couldn't really see an issue. I did though, with the 87C filter. Brutally long exposures that took ages for the camera to "process" the image, before I could preview it. I'll wait for an IR day to try it again...
Andrew, that's good news. It's my understanding is that most digital cameras have an IR blocking filter. So my results are more like using an extended red film, such as Ilford's SFX 200 film.
I've spent years looking at the Large Format pages and have only just started looking at these 'other' pages - even more years of enjoyment to come!
Back in 2013 I converted a D200 to IR, broadly following instructions from the internet (not there anymore but here is a Wayback machine link).
It was a fairly fraught experience taking the camera to bits. I cut a piece of Edmund Optics longpass filter (750nm) and installed it in place of the anti-aliasing glass.
Would it work? Would there be bucket loads of dust everywhere? Would the focus be thrown way out?
It worked fine, far better than I could have imagined. I must use it more.
https://live.staticflickr.com/3953/1...60c836a4_o.jpg
Yew hedge by Peter Brooks
https://live.staticflickr.com/2942/1...ccb7f63d_o.jpg
Croquet by Peter Brooks
They look like they are playing on flour (those in the UK may remember the McDougalls flour men).
https://live.staticflickr.com/7497/1...4b24fa36_o.jpg
Stagshaw House by Peter Brooks
False colour (colours inverted in PS)
Andrew, this is most likely down to the lens, not all are IR friendly. Bjørn Rørslett on his Nikon Lens Evaluations pages often states whether a lens is suitable for IR or not... I tested all my Nikon lenses and some displayed really nasty hot spots.
His recommendation for the older 28 mm f/3.5 with a small exit pupil is absolutely spot on (I luckily found an AI'd copy). I was also pleased to find that the cheap but reasonable performing 18-55mm kit lens that came with the D200 was also very well behaved for IR :)
Nice work, Peter!
Just passing on some of my observations and experiences...
All my AI converted and AIS MF Nikkors work great for shooting IR - 20mm, 24mm, 35mm, 85mm, 135mm, 200mm, and 300mm. No hot spots.
Both my MF AIS Zoom Nikkors have hot spots - 35-105 & 35-135 MF AIS Nikkors.
600mm & 800mm Vivitar Series 1 mirror lenses are great for shooting IF - very unique images. Ironically out of focus doughnuts seem to almost disappear.
My AF-S Zoom Nikkors work great for shooting IR - 14-24, 24-70, & 200-500mm. 80-200mm AF ED still have to test.
24-70 Z Nikkor - great for IR, no hot spots at all.
24-200 Z Nikkor - hot spots especially at its longer focal lengths. Unfortunately unuseable.
70mm f/5 VK70R & 120mm SMC PENTAX SOFT produce amazing IR images.
Posted lists of lenses producing or not producing hot spots - I only agree with 90% of their listings. Maybe manufacturers made minor changes in the production of their lenses? Or?
Post production correction of the hot spot using PS: For B&W, can be done but a pain to do. For Color, given enough skill, time, and patience most probably could be done.
First camera to shoot IR with: Nikon D2h was great at the time for shooting IR with an IR filter on the lens. The D2h either didn't have an IR filter over its sensor or a very minor one. Resulting images were rather grainy but very, very usable.
Second camera: an IR converted D700. Compensating for refocusing for shooting IR a pain for "grab" shots.
Third camera: Finally bit the bullet and just recently had my (third camera) Nikon Z6 converted for shooting IR.... never looked back and with absolutely no regrets. 10,000% better than shooting with the IR converted D700. Viewing the IR image in the finder is just a pleasure to use. AF is dead on.
FYI: in the 1980s and 1990s, I commercially shot 4x5 architecture IR images with a Sinar Hand and 47mm and 65mm optics. Final prints were 20x24 inches and larger. Honestly prefer those final prints to the ones I am now making with the IR converted Z6, but then I may be comparing apples to oranges... Also just starting to get to know the IR converted Z6.
I ordered a cheap IR filter set consisting of four filters, from China, that vary in strength. 680, 720, 760, 850, 950nm. My current R72 is quite worn out, as I've been using it forever. Consists of two pieces of glass, that have started to rattle around its housing ring.
Good stuff, Greg! So far I've used the following lenses successfully:
Nikkor 20mm AF,
Nikkor 28mm AF,
Nikkor 35mm AIS,
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D
Micro Nikkor 105D
Andrew, I'll be very curious to find out how the 680nm filter works out. I expect it's give a good IR effect while being significantly faster than the R72.