Elinchrom Ranger rX Experience ? Tell me Please.

I am looking at the Ranger rX for location work portraits with my 8x10 camera where there is no electrical. It is the now old style portable flash with the heavy battery. But I am thinking the whole 8x10 outfit is heavy anyway and the extra five lbs for the old style ( but new from the store) is not the biggest issue. With the 10 8x10 holders, the tripod, the Wood field camera. Light stands and boxes there is easily 60 lbs so adding another 11 lbs with this high output flash is not that bad. I mean I know the Elinchrom ELB 1200 will be five lbs , but the coast is almost $4000 more when I figure in tax.

I need the 1100 WS to "overpower" the sun and get to a reasonable F16 when shooting E6 in my 8x10.

Have you done this ? What was your experience?

Thank You

Rent one to see if it will fulfill your needs first before buying.

Are you sure about the weights? Seems closer to 20 lbs. for the pack + 5-6 lbs for the head, similar to the Profoto 7b I had. The pack was 1200 Ws but That produced 600 Ws per flash head which was enough for medium portraits with a white beauty scale in bright sunlight. When Shooting wider portraits I would just shine a 2nd flash head into the same beauty scale to double my flash output.

Be aware that if you ever want to add a 2nd head, you're output ratio is fixed at 2:1 per head with the Elinchrome (Profoto 7b could do 2:1 and 1:1) and that can be a severely limiting factor! And do check that you get the full 1100 Ws if you only use one head with the Elinchrome...

I am so new to LF that I don't even have my camera yet! Still trying to understand powerful lighting systems. But Godox has the QS1200ii at 1200WS and 9.5 pounds. Though this is 120V AC, not so mobile. May not work at all for you. $519, maybe less.

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I rented a Ranger once when my 7b was in for repairs; it wasn't quite as heavy as the 7b, but it was close.
Either system will get you f16, and maybe more if you use a good reflector.
As Jeroen said, the 7b is more versatile, as you can always change the ratio to suit your needs, and the 7b is built like a tank.

If weight becomes an issue, I suggest you look at a portable 600 w/s system; there are many of them, and something like a Godox will allow you to buy two 600w/s flash heads for less than a Profoto.

1200 watt/sec enough, that depends on distance between light source (Elinchrome flash unit's flash head) to subject, light modifier used or reflector used, area that need added illumination. While 1200 watt/seconds sounds like a lot, that flash power number can diminish rapidly due to flash head to subject distance, lighting modifier and area that needs the added light. These lighting basics must be considered before applying or choosing any flash unit.

Each added flash head splits total power between flash heads. What is nice about Elinchrome flash units, they have 0.1 f-stop power adjustment which is more useful than most realize until this feature is applied to lighting needs. Their flash heads and tubes have mostly uniform color temperature over it's flash power range which is important for color work.

A good calibrated flash meter is mandatory to control and achieve consistent exposure on film.


Bernice

I own one of the regular Rangers from before the Rx. I've had it for around 20 years I think. It is a nice powerful little unit. If you can get a new one, so much the better. If you are going to attach modifiers on the head, the Elinchrom heads can be a bit fickle if it is a rotating ring for example. Also I wouldn't put any heavy attachments on it, but those eat light anyway so why would you? There are better ways to get soft fill if you are out in the sun than a strobe. A lot of those require more gear and/or a person to deal with it though.

ProFoto systems are probably easier to deal with these days since so many use them, and they are easily rentable. I don't know about the Chinese stuff since i don't keep track of those things anymore.


Whatever system you get, make sure you pick up a hook for your light stand and hang the battery on that. Doubles as a sand bag...

It is difficult to "overpower" the highlights from the sun with artifical lighting, as the sun is so bright... The best you can do is to bring the shadow values up to a range that fills the "holes"... As mentioned, distance and modifiers eat the output...

We used to use 600w/s up close with a correction filter over an open reflector, with tungsten film (in daylight) to shoot album cover artist stuff and let the sun lit background turn blue for a special effect, but the strobe head was very close to the subject...

Explain what you are trying to achieve, so we can help more...

If you are just trying to fill shadows, large fill cards with foil coverings can work with no strobe power needed!!!

Steve K

I was saying the added weight over a 1200 ELB is about 11 lbs. I know I will need a wheeled cart to do location work . I will use this for portraits where there is no electric and where the sun is variable. I have been using smaller flash but f/5.6 is not good enough. I have a bunch of Elinchrom studio flash already I do not want a heavy mono light on the top of a light stand because that can blow over I will likely use the power pack to weigh down the light stand . If using a big soft box thats important. I like the idea of the one third two third split. then I get my highlight and shadow even quickly. Working in the field needs some swift thinking because weather can change and the effort of going out and then coming back means the time doing the shoot is limited. Of course not Noon day sun!!! My vehicle is a GMC Suburban 4 WD plenty of field access and room for "stuff" and people. You comments have been helpful. I ordered a new one at half price discount today.