Tight Shutter Screw

I got a Yashica-A TLR with a stuck shutter on ebay for a good price as a project to work on for fun. I opened the shutter and attempted to remove the screw holding down the cocking lever. It was very tight. I applied more force and ... sheared off the head of the screw. I would like to say lesson learned, but honestly I'm not sure what I should have done differently. Any ideas?

Any ideas on how to remove the remainder of the screw to continue the repair? At this point I plan to try to drill it out with wire gauge drill bits and maybe find a replacement screw. Or maybe just keep it for parts for future projects!

Thanks for any advice! Despite the occasional frustration, I really enjoy these repair jobs and have mostly had great success.

Maybe it was reverse-threaded?

If screws don't remove with a reasonable amount of force, STOP!!! (They are not lug nuts on your car...) Usual culprit is thread-lok on screw threads to prevent screw from coming loose...

Taking a hypodermic needle with acetone inside, and applying a few micro drops nearest where the threads would be, leave on for a few minutes, repeat, and repeat a couple times more so it would soften the thread-lok... It penetrates into the connection...

If still stubborn, heating the screw head with a medium heat soldering iron (+40w) causes screw to slightly expand and contract, breaking its seating set in the threads... Be patient, and repeat processes with care...

Steve K

I have a Butane Lighter fluid soldering pencil that can apply a finy pinpoint flame most places

Also does Heat Shrink perfectly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LabRat

If screws don't remove with a reasonable amount of force, STOP!!! (They are not lug nuts on your car...) Usual culprit is thread-lok on screw threads to prevent screw from coming loose...

Taking a hypodermic needle with acetone inside, and applying a few micro drops nearest where the threads would be, leave on for a few minutes, repeat, and repeat a couple times more so it would soften the thread-lok... It penetrates into the connection...

If still stubborn, heating the screw head with a medium heat soldering iron (+40w) causes screw to slightly expand and contract, breaking its seating set in the threads... Be patient, and repeat processes with care...

Steve K

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+1 also freezing it helps.

use a fine tip soldering iron... not a flame tourch, no matter how pin point the flame is.

if all else fails, drill the heads off then remove the stumps using a hemostat or needle nose pliers.

its always the last screw that gives me a headache.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LabRat

If screws don't remove with a reasonable amount of force, STOP!!! (They are not lug nuts on your car...) Usual culprit is thread-lok on screw threads to prevent screw from coming loose...

Taking a hypodermic needle with acetone inside, and applying a few micro drops nearest where the threads would be, leave on for a few minutes, repeat, and repeat a couple times more so it would soften the thread-lok... It penetrates into the connection...

If still stubborn, heating the screw head with a medium heat soldering iron (+40w) causes screw to slightly expand and contract, breaking its seating set in the threads... Be patient, and repeat processes with care...

Steve K

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This is exactly the kind of advice I was looking for! I will definitely try these steps next time. Thanks!

Thank you all for all the great comments and advice. I don't feel as bad now that I have learned something! Worth the price of admission any day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dugan

Maybe it was reverse-threaded?

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Oh... I think you may be right. I feel really dumb for not trying this. Lesson learned! :rolleyes:

Acetone worked for me in a similar situation. Even have the thread for it:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...stubborn-screw

Great!