Camera scanning on the cheap -- an example approach

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Originally Posted by nomennominatur

I am aware that anti Newton glass should display some roughness, however, neither with naked eye, nor with a 10x loupe am I able to discern any roughening. However, I do not get any Newton rings at all, sandwiching the film without any spacers. I am a bit puzzled myself. The glass is from a rather prestigeous framing shop out of town. Next time I go there, I will ask the owner about the technical details of this archival glass, which he uses only for the most expensive framing jobs. The glass is rather thin, thus the top glass does not brutally weigh down the negative, yet flatness is more than sufficient for my DOF setting.

Kind regards
Mathias

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Perhaps your museum glass is the type with an antireflective coating on it? If so make sure you clean it like you would a camera lens. I have a few sheets I've tried in the enlarger and they seem to do a decent job with newton rings on most of the time.

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Originally Posted by Larry Gebhardt

Perhaps your museum glass is the type with an antireflective coating on it? If so make sure you clean it like you would a camera lens. I have a few sheets I've tried in the enlarger and they seem to do a decent job with newton rings on most of the time.

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Thanks. Multicoating seems to be an option, indeed. I just came across this:
https://tru-vue.com/solution/museum-glass/

But then, coating should not affect presence or absence of Newton rings which are a function of wave length and spacing, if my dim recollection of college physics does not fail me...

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Originally Posted by nomennominatur

Thanks. Multicoating seems to be an option, indeed. I just came across this:
https://tru-vue.com/solution/museum-glass/

But then, coating should not affect presence or absence of Newton rings which are a function of wave length and spacing, if my dim recollection of college physics does not fail me...

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By reducing the reflection you reduce the rings since they are interference patterns created from the reflection of light between the two surfaces.

Yes, my experience is that multi-coated glass does reduce Newton's rings, reduce but not eliminate.

Larry and Peter, thanks, that makes sense.

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Originally Posted by rdeloe

...The tethering approach looks very interesting. Unfortunately Sofortbild only works with Nikon. I have to get serious about finding something that works well with Fuji. Mind you, focusing with live view on the Fuji is actually very easy.

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Capture One Pro (v.11 or now v.12) is your best option for tethering Fuji camera's. Really fast, and it's also the best raw converter, most pro's swear by C1. Has a bit of a learning curve though and it's not cheap (though there is a cheaper Fuji-only version). Download a free trial at https://www.captureone.com

I agree with Jeroen about Capture One and Tethering. It's the best solution I've used.

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Originally Posted by rdeloe

When you are camera scanning, the lens plane, sensor plane and the plane of the negative should be absolutely parallel (or as close as you can get). To ensure the scanning template is level, I installed four “furniture levellers” that allow each corner to be raised and lowered independently; these cost a few dollars at the local hardware store. I level the camera using the old trick darkroom workers know well for levelling their enlarger: place a mirror underneath the camera, on top of the level scanning template, focus on the front of the lens, and then adjust the camera until the front of the lens is dead centre in the frame. I find this is much more accurate than putting a level on the camera.

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Ahhhh Furniture levellers...... Thanks very much - I was thinking of ways to properly align my camera

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Originally Posted by Blackmarxz

Ahhhh Furniture levellers...... Thanks very much - I was thinking of ways to properly align my camera

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One could also use three, then it would always be stable during adjustments. Or use a baseboard with three wooden wedges underneath at the edges, moving them in and out to level the baseboard and securing them temporarily with a bit of tape.

Hello to all.
I need an advise on a freeware software that has a color negative to positive feature.

I use MS Paint.net for viewing my scans since I don't need any high resolution or super adjustment for printing output.
Unfortunately, I cannot covert color negatives into positive with it (only "invert colors" which turns a color negative into a total blue image).

Thank you!