Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2

What should owners do to maintain these units? I have the Instruction Manual #66048 (07/97). There are two pages devoted to “Processor Maintenance and Tips” and I have followed these steps. There is much good information here but I suspect there is more knowledge out there among our community.

Over the weekend I did the eight hour cleaning of the tempering tank, water pump and over all casing using heated water and “Processor Clean II”. This old serial # 13391 looks brand new now.

I have two packages of lubricant the guys at Jobo Ann Arbor sent me years ago. I am embarrassed to say that I have forgotten which lube goes where. Does someone here know? #95465 comes in a 70ml syringe. #93071 comes with a little plastic canister holding maybe ½ oz to 1 oz to be applied with a tiny plastic handled brush. Neither of these is mentioned in the two pages of maintenance or the index. All the gears on the lift are still lubricated from earlier applications, but maybe I should be putting some fresh in there.

As mentioned in another thread, I bought this unit second hand, sometime in 2004. The Ann Arbor crew sent me a new lift when I moved up to 4x5 and had trouble using Expert drums. In the last year I processed 250 sheets of 7x17 in a combined 2800-2500 tank and 100 sheets of 8x10 in an Expert drum. I only use Rollo Pyro to develop B&W film. I tray process print paper. When using the Jobo in a SS sink I plug it into a surge protector that then goes into a GFI outlet.

What do you know about these units that might help the rest of us extend the working life of our old Jobos?

Thanks,

John

Im curious to know as well- mine squeeks horribly almost every time I use it

Greg Blank will likely answer with more accurate info.

The syringe stuff is for the shaft for the gears that go from the front of the lift mechanism to the back where the main gear comes off the motor from what I remember in lubing mine years ago. It does get rid of that horrid squeak.

Also replying to J Powers...here:

The syringe is for packing grease inside the hole that the white transfer gears ride in on the lift arm. ATLs have two gears, CPE, CPA and CPP2 have one hole.You fill the hole with grease then insert the two part gear and snap lock it together.

Grease eliminates the squeek. You can also apply vaseline using a Q tip instead...same mission accomplished with a dime store item versus the $32.00 syringe of high priced brown grease.

The white tub is is even pricer it's ""Lithium" grease "Silkon" which you most likely can find state side for less than the 50$ per 1/4 gram Omega sells it for. Used on the backside of the Lift elbow. Lubed twice in twenty years probably enough :)

Maintance? Keep the knobs area free from water, wipe it immediately after spilling water or chemicals on this area. Periodically lube the lift including the transfer gears. Check the water pump impellor periodically for twisted hair lint or debris. Remove the water impellor guard by rocking it front to back noting the tabs. One of my recent repairs told me I should post videos on You tube. Since I set an account up I aybe do that....whadda all do you think?

Process clean is good algae control. Windex helps remove subborn fixer sulfer deposits.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RPNugent

Greg Blank will likely answer with more accurate info.

The syringe stuff is for the shaft for the gears that go from the front of the lift mechanism to the back where the main gear comes off the motor from what I remember in lubing mine years ago. It does get rid of that horrid squeak.

---

Greg,

Thanks for the info.

I'd like to see a Youtube clip!

Thanks,

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greg Blank

...One of my recent repairs told me I should post videos on You tube. Since I set an account up I aybe do that....whadda all do you think?...

---

Yes, please do!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Greg Blank

Also replying to J Powers...here:
.

---

Thank you for the help. the video would be an additional help. Thank you.

John

I'm guessing it would depend on the vintage but.......Are the motors in the cpa-2 the same as the cpp-2?

As long as we're on the subject, what method is good for controlling the algae? My water comes through old pipes and I'm forming algea fairly quickly in the tub which is annoying to have to clean very often.
Another yes vote for the video, also.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mandoman7

As long as we're on the subject, what method is good for controlling the algae? My water comes through old pipes and I'm forming algea fairly quickly in the tub which is annoying to have to clean very often.
Another yes vote for the video, also.

---

As the OP I meant the thread to be open to all aspects of Jobo CPP-2 and CPA-2 maintenance. Please have at any aspect of that.

My water source is a rural farm well. I use a water softener and a 3 micron or 1 micron canister filter, which ever is available at Lowes, to rid dirt, taste and smell. I find if this water sits overnight and beyond, algae becomes apparent. I dump all water after a day's use whether that is one or more loads of film. I still get white sediment that I assume is lime. One eight hour wash with Jobo “Processor Clean II” cleaner eliminated four years of sediment.

Hope that helps.

John

In general yes and the new style motor can be installed into it- with the required circuitry upgrades. The CPA is actually the more difficult processor to repair for me. Although I have fixed a few. Jobo stopped production on the CPA processors four years prior to Omega Satter taking over distribution. I remember the technician from Ann Arbor that came to give some training stating that they tell people the CPA's can not be upgraded. I decided that anything was fair game when I took over technical support, but I was scared sh*tless that I wasn't going to understand the processors and would never be able to repair them well enough to keep people happy.

I have had lots of help first starting when my friend here in Baltimore agreed to train me in repairing the processors. He was my service tech for years and had lots of electronics hands on experience, though he was not an engineer. I am not an electronic engineer. Basically after my buddy John showed me some things I would call him and my friend Dave Smith in LA both guys have helped me understand the processor lots. But Dave is very knowledgable in electronics and tends to make my head swim :) Klaus in Germany has also given me lots of help and the other good people at Jobo Germany have always answered my requests. The real challenge was deciphering the service manuals. Many have german notations and the schematics are combined German and English. So I have learned by doing and somewhat osmosis. The good thing is I have
a pretty fair working knowledge how to tear apart and rebuild the bigger automatic processors mechanically which are very complex electronically, so I've learned to trouble shoot using logic versus an oscilloscope regarding circuit problems. I do wish I could get that skill, but I am doing alright so far:) I also have access to variety of knowledgable electronics folks that I bounce my theories off of, because Omega builds & sells Novatron and we have an in house engineer.

Its a lot to learn twenty years of product history in four or five, but its been fun and quite educational. I also always enjoy talking with photographers and over these several have talked with some interesting Jobo owners.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by vinny

I'm guessing it would depend on the vintage but.......Are the motors in the cpa-2 the same as the cpp-2?

---

Jobo does not recommend using bleach in the plastic tub, maybe because people don't tend mix bleach intelligently? Process clean is the preferred stuff that Omega Satter distributes for cleaning processors it designed to work overnight.

But you could use a soft scrub compound a soft sponge and enough water to lubricate, I use a small soft brush to clean everything it is a little faster. Windex will remove the caked on fixer sulfer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mandoman7

As long as we're on the subject, what method is good for controlling the algae? My water comes through old pipes and I'm forming algea fairly quickly in the tub which is annoying to have to clean very often.
Another yes vote for the video, also.

---

Regarding this post from Greg Blank:

The syringe is for packing grease inside the hole that the white transfer gears ride in on the lift arm. ATLs have two gears, CPE, CPA and CPP2 have one hole.You fill the hole with grease then insert the two part gear and snap lock it together.

Grease eliminates the squeek. You can also apply vaseline using a Q tip instead...

Can you please explain how to get the white transfer gears apart so that you can access the hole for lubricant?
Thanks...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Photosensualis

Regarding this post from Greg Blank:

The syringe is for packing grease inside the hole that the white transfer gears ride in on the lift arm. ATLs have two gears, CPE, CPA and CPP2 have one hole.You fill the hole with grease then insert the two part gear and snap lock it together.

Grease eliminates the squeek. You can also apply vaseline using a Q tip instead...

Can you please explain how to get the white transfer gears apart so that you can access the hole for lubricant?
Thanks...

---

Is Explained in this technical doc Jobo supplied. However to be a bit more concise for everyone's benefit:

The transfer gears are two pieces, there is silicon covering the end that has connection parts, usually it is found on the back of the gear. That requires taking the lift off the processor. You take the lift off, by loosening the two black screws and NEVER the lower metal motor screw. A standard screw driver is gentlely inserted behond the lift to wedge the lifts flange away from the motor control housing.

Once the lift is off flip it over and inspect the transfer gear. You dig the silicon out, then use a needle nose pliers to carefully squeeze the connection together. The two half should then separate rather easily.

http://www.gbphotoworks.com/jdocs/WhiteClips.pdf

We have a problem with one of the JOBO's at school. A CPA has the bronze bushing that is pressed onto the motor shaft start to slip. It won't power the cog to drive the drums anymore and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it.

Any suggestions? The shaft is NOT a tapered shaft and the bronze bushing is threaded which is what keeps the cog in place.

GRRRRRRRR....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by michael slade

We have a problem with one of the JOBO's at school. A CPA has the bronze bushing that is pressed onto the motor shaft start to slip. It won't power the cog to drive the drums anymore and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it.

Any suggestions? The shaft is NOT a tapered shaft and the bronze bushing is threaded which is what keeps the cog in place.

GRRRRRRRR....

---

Is this the part held on with either the Phillips or Allen screw on the center of the shaft.

On the motors with the tapered shaft, the shaft is threaded and accepts the bolt to hold on the cog.

On this motor, the shaft is not tapered and there is a bronze bushing which is pressed onto the end of the square, non-tapped shaft. This bronze bushing IS tapped which is what the cog is held on to using an allen-head bolt. Ironically if the allen-head bolt is put on too tightly the screw can essentially push the bronze bushing off of the shaft when the screw is tightened.

I have a pic of it here somewhere....

The allen screw is incorrect for the straight shaft motors. Its too long and was designed for the new style motors. For straight shaft motors you should be using a standard screw with threads 14/64th from the screw head or 5mm.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by michael slade

On the motors with the tapered shaft, the shaft is threaded and accepts the bolt to hold on the cog.

On this motor, the shaft is not tapered and there is a bronze bushing which is pressed onto the end of the square, non-tapped shaft. This bronze bushing IS tapped which is what the cog is held on to using an allen-head bolt. Ironically if the allen-head bolt is put on too tightly the screw can essentially push the bronze bushing off of the shaft when the screw is tightened.

I have a pic of it here somewhere....

---

So now the problem is the bronze bushing has been spun off of the straight shaft. Do I need to get someone to braze it on? JB Weld didn't hold very long...

Those are not supposed to be permanently attached, its a compression bushing. As you tighten the bushing by turning the screw it is supposed to hold. If it does not a new bushing should probably be used. But the problem is if the bushings are available. I can check but it may take some time een if I can get one. I am also not sure as someone that is learning the ins and outs of welding if I could recomend brazening. There are part internal to that motor that could be damaged by heat or electricity. Did you take the shaft completely out? The gearing inside the motor is phenilic material. I am not certain if over heating is a good idea. The windings of the motor are very fine copper so they potentially could be damaged. I guess my main message is take care!

These compression bushing are also part of the reason Jobo upgraded the motors to the cone shaft, when used with Expert drums. The allen screws go inside the shaft and are a solid lock.

I do have two motors with the tapered shaft that are sluggish...maybe I'll have them rebuilt and then install one of them into the unit that had the motor with the square shaft. The design is completely silly and I can totally see why JOBO went to the tapered shaft.

That will put a serious strain on the existing circuitry.

So...short of finding a new bushing and/or having the one that I've got now permaently fixed to the shaft, what do you suggest? New motor? I am also having a hard time finding one of those...

Greg,

I have a jobo where the motor cog (black cog held on by allen screw) is missing several teeth. Are replacement parts still available?? What is the best method of removing/replacing this cog?

Thanks to all,

Miguel

Miguel;

I can get you those cogs, either the one for the straight shaft motor or the cone shaped. The allen key type screws are metric so any hardware store sells the wrench & you can remove or loosen the screw with them. The cogs tend to get stuck so sometimes you have to use a screw drive to pop the cog off the shaft wedging against the motor control housing "AFTER" the screw is completely loose.

If you buy an allen wrench set look for the ball end type (a lot easier to use).

You can PM me or email me thorugh my gbworks site linked below .....I prefer email over having to log in for PM messages, but it you call.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Miguel Salhuana

Greg,

I have a jobo where the motor cog (black cog held on by allen screw) is missing several teeth. Are replacement parts still available?? What is the best method of removing/replacing this cog?

Thanks to all,

Miguel

---