Luna-pro advice. Which ones do you like and why?

I'm thinking about getting an old Gossen handheld light meter. I'm attracted to the idea that I can use it instead of a dedicated spot meter. Does anyone have any experience with these meters. I see there are many different types and I'm not sure which one to buy. I believe that the Lunasix F will calculate filter factors. I see KEH advertises "gray" and "black" for the Luna-Pro but these are not models. Also they get the battery type wrong. I was wondering if the spot attachment works for all camera models. I could theoretically buy a dedicated spot meter but they seem to be quite expensive. If people could let me know which Luna-Pro model they like and why it would be helpful so I can buy something without waisting my money.

-Andrew

Hi Andrew. I use two different Gossen Luna Pro meters and for 96.78% of my photography they are great substitutes for a 1-degree spot meter. The real advantage is speed to get a ecommended exposure that is very very close to that obtained via several spot readings. The grey/boack Luna Pro has the advantage of great sensitivity... perhaps the greates low light sensitivity of any consumer light meter. The downside to the gray version is that the battery is obsolete. With a MR-9 battery converter, though, there are no issues. The other one I use is a Luna Pro SBC (which I believe is the same as the LunaSix F). The downside is that it is really big and bulky. The upside is that it uses a common 9 volt battery, has a null metering indicator, which is really quick to use, and it has a subdial that allows for filter factor adjustments. These meters all do reflected as well as incident metering. The 7.5/15 degree "spot" meter accessory fits on all of these. In my experience, you can't go wrong with a Luna Pro meter.

Gossen Luna-Pro Digital F. I use two of them. They appear accurate, use a single AA battery, big visible numbers, and come with a handy carrying pouch. Having come from using the old analog Luna Pro which originally needed mercury batteries, the Digital is a breath of fresh air every time I use it. Really simple to use.

https://www.cameramanuals.org/flashe...-digital_f.pdf

Be careful that sellers do not sell you a meter that had leaking batteries in their battery compartment.

I use, sometimes, ye olde grey Gossen LunaSix (same as LunaPro in Canada, long time ago). The spot attachment works great, but I don't have Zone System sticker as in my Pentax spotmeter.

I have been using the various "Luna-Pro" meters since the late 60s when I was a teenager. The various models had different names in different markets. There are basically two types, the original models used CdS cells and had two scales with one more sensitive than the other. It was turned by a rockerswitch - one way for low light and one for outdoor daylight levels. These were powered by Hg cells that are no longer available in most markets. There may be a way of using newer batteries via an adapter - have read about it but have no experience. Sometime in the 70s the Luna-Pro SBC came out. I do not recall the exact year but I got one shortly after release and still have it. The SBC models use SBC metering cells. Recall the Nikon F2 was available with separate metering finders, one with CdS the other with SBC. These finders got updated but there remained separate CdS and SBC versions. The Luna-Pro SBC models as indicated above use transister radio (as they were called) 9V batteries that are still being made. The SBC models are quite a bit bulkier than the CdS models, Both take a range of accessories in common. As well there are accessories that only work for the SBC models. They have plugs to electronically interface with the meter. The accessory I use the most is the one mentioned above (with the bull's eye degree finder). With it and the analog display one can see plus or minus 3 stops from the setting making a quick evaluation of the light intensities possible by simply pointing the meter around while looking through the WLF of the finder (it is possible to see both displays at the same time). Flash metering was added later - the F versions. As well there were LED read-out versions (instead of a galvanometer). Meters that use AA cells are a newer family of meters than the ones I just described. I do not have any Gossen meters of this type but do have a couple of Sekonics. They are more compact but lack the analog display of the earlier meters having LCD displays instead. I like the big needle of the analog type especially with my aging vision! A plus for the Gossen meters is that there is an EV window in the readout - I used Hasselblad cameras (the true 6x6 Hassys) rather extensively back in the day. Setting the EV first was the way to go with them.

I've also been using these since the 1970s. Back then a pro photographer for any major paper had one. Their low light ability was extraordinary in the context of their time. The black models are the same as the gray ones, just a little newer.

Despite my being a fan, I've come to a few conclusions:

1. I wouldn't use the original these days. The mercury batteries are gone and you have to convert them. Quality Light Metric used to convert the meters for modern cells, and there are converters to get the right voltage, which I believe is 1.35 x 2. The error from extra voltage is not linear.

2. Getting anybody to calibrate one is a problem. QLM is now closed, and before it closed I sent them two Luna Pros at around the same time for calibration and they were returned off by a stop from each other and the owner (George?) didn't think that was a problem.

3. The SBC model is sensitive and has the more modern cell. But man, it is a big block of meter. The model with the three red LEDs didn't appeal to me. I think it was the one after the SBC.

4. The smaller digital ones are reliable, use more modern batteries, and are remarkably small and light. One of mine (I think it is the "F" model) includes flash metering ability.

5. The one I use now is the Luna Pro Digital. They are relatively reasonable $$ used, versatile and accurate.

Does the Luna-Pro Digital take the old Luna-Pro spot attachment? I am looking for a cheap and easy way to avoid buying a spot meter. Spot meters can be so expensive. It might be that I should shell out the cash for one but the Gossen looks really interesting. If it is trust worthy it might be the way to go.

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Originally Posted by Andy F

Does the Luna-Pro Digital take the old Luna-Pro spot attachment? I am looking for a cheap and easy way to avoid buying a spot meter. Spot meters can be so expensive. It might be that I should shell out the cash for one but the Gossen looks really interesting. If it is trust worthy it might be the way to go.

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I have several Luna-Pros, some which I have worked on/recalibrated for modern batteries.

I also have the spot accessory. The meters themselves are great for what they are, but the spot metering adapter just isn't very good. Depending how old it is, it may- or may not reflect light in the way the meter expects and/or deliver the exposure indicated by the spot meter marks on the meter dial.

A good clean LP will cost you$30-40, another $30-40 for the spot meter, and another $60-ish for the modern MR9 adapters (you need two). So you're in the neighborhood of $140 for a meter that is very old and unserviceable (unless you can do it yourself).

OTOH, you can get a used Seconic L-408 for reasonable money ($200-ish here in the US on eBay) and these are very fine spot meters that don't break the bank.

Don't get me wrong, I own a handful of Luna Pros and am currently rehabbing an old Luna-Six just because I find fixing them up entertaining, but I wouldn't spend a ton on one at this point just because of age and the likely wear you'll run into.

Thanks everybody for the advice.

What I originally saw was the LunaPro S. The internet says it is they same as the Lunasix 3 but I don't think so. The Lunasix seems to need to be zeroed out. While I think the LunaPro S uses EV numbers and has a scale on it for the zone system. I may take Tundras advice about the Seconic L-408. Not sure how I want to move forward. I did like a one size fit all hand held light meter instead of carrying two meters. Maybe I should just cough up the money for good spot meter.

Thanks again everyone for the advice.

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Originally Posted by Andy F

Thanks everybody for the advice.

What I originally saw was the LunaPro S. The internet says it is they same as the Lunasix 3 but I don't think so. The Lunasix seems to need to be zeroed out. While I think the LunaPro S uses EV numbers and has a scale on it for the zone system. I may take Tundras advice about the Seconic L-408. Not sure how I want to move forward. I did like a one size fit all hand held light meter instead of carrying two meters. Maybe I should just cough up the money for good spot meter.

Thanks again everyone for the advice.

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The LunaPro S (aka Lunasix 3S) is a Lunasix 3 with an EV compensation ring added to the exposure calculation dial. Same CdS cell and electronics as the Lunasix 3. Some were shipped from the factory with a 1.5V silver oxide battery converter.

IMHO the analog Gossen meters you want are the Lunasix F and Profisix, both of which use silicon blue cells, run on 9v batteries and have null dials. The Profisix has additional electronics for active adaptors including the 1/5/10 degree spot attachment, flash attachment and colour temperature attachments.

I went down the "Lunasix" rabbit hole a while back. The first Lunasix (aka Luna-Pro in USA) has separate buttons for high and low ranges and uses one mercury battery, the light range scale is fixed and shows both high and low at all times. The second Lunasix (also branded Lunasix or Luna-Pro) introduced the rocker switch range selection, hides the range not in use, uses two batteries and added a stop to the sensitivity (at the bright end). The third version was branded Lunasix 3, its major change was the redesigned front for attachments. The Lunasix 3S adds the EF dial.

I have had no problems using zinc-air hearing aid batteries. They only last a few months but are cheap.

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Originally Posted by Vaughan

IMHO the analog Gossen meters you want are the Lunasix F and Profisix, both of which use silicon blue cells, run on 9v batteries and have null dials. The Profisix has additional electronics for active adaptors including the 1/5/10 degree spot attachment, flash attachment and colour temperature attachments.

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DITTO

I've used them for decades, flawlessly. I really don't think you'll be disappointed by either. And I much prefer the dials, despite the slight bulk, over their sometimes more compact digital counterparts.

Anyone use the enlarging attachment and can recommend it?


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Gossen have recently introduced an adapter that makes it easy to use a pair of SR43 batteries in place of the now-obsolete PX625 mercury cells in the old Luna-Pro.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...r_set_for.html

sbc is great. its extreamly sensative and has the lowest ev of all meters. the spot attachment fits the regular meters as well as the sbc so you shouldnt have a problem finding one. just be aware using the spot attachment you will have to compensate the exposure reading as per instructions... it may just be a stop or so.

sbc is most saught after because it uses a regular 9v battery.

The spot meter attachment from the old Luna Pros does not fit on the Digital F, which is smaller. The Digital F is still available new as the "Sixtomat F2" (Gossen always had different model names in the US vs Europe, eg Luna Pro and Lunasix). The Digital F meter is one of the few pieces of kit I bought brand new full retail - over 25 years ago and still works like day 1- and have never regretted.

Personally, I think spot meters are better used after one has gained some experience with manual metering with a center-weighted or handheld meter and visualization, but many people feel otherwise. I like the old Luna Pros in operation, but at this point am putting off using them until I can check their calibration and buy or make a battery adapter with a diode to fit the smaller batteries and drop the voltage slightly.

I have a Gossen Multisix, that is one of the first digital meters from Gossen. It is the smaller version of the Mastersix, and it is compatible with all the non-electronic adapters from the lunasix series. I lke it very much, I'm now learning how to use in my improvised darkroom, with the adapter. I also have the tele and the "sonde" adapters.

I like my Luna-Pro F, that I purchased recently. I have the 7.5% and 15% spot reader already. The 7.5% spot reader requires a 3 stop correction, and this can be dialed into the meter itself using the built in correction factor.

This meter uses a 9 volt "transistor" battery that can be found in any store.

Just to be picky, the 7.5 and 15 degree adaptor for the Lunasix 3 is the "Tele" not "Spot". The "Spot" adaptor is the 1/5/10 degree attachment for the Profisix.

IMHO if you want to use the Tele adaptor (it has a funky/useful waist level finder) then the Lunasix 3 (or 3s) is IMHO the best, having red and green circle marks on the meter scale to compensate for the selected view angle. On all other meters the 2- or 3-stop adjustment needs to be made manually some other way, and failure to do so may lead to exposure error.

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Originally Posted by Vaughan

Just to be picky, the 7.5 and 15 degree adaptor for the Lunasix 3 is the "Tele" not "Spot". The "Spot" adaptor is the 1/5/10 degree attachment for the Profisix.

IMHO if you want to use the Tele adaptor (it has a funky/useful waist level finder) then the Lunasix 3 (or 3s) is IMHO the best, having red and green circle marks on the meter scale to compensate for the selected view angle. On all other meters the 2- or 3-stop adjustment needs to be made manually some other way, and failure to do so may lead to exposure error.

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If I’m not mistaken, even the profi system spot attachment requires compensation on the dial for correct readings.

They all work great if one uses them correctly.

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Originally Posted by BrianShaw

If I’m not mistaken, even the profi system spot attachment requires compensation on the dial for correct readings.

They all work great if one uses them correctly.

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No, the Profi-Spot attachment has active electronics that do the adjustments. Just select the spot angle, take a reading, null the dial. It's a shame the Spot attachment is larger than the light meter itself.

However if using the TELE adaptor: yes, a manual adjustment needs to be made on all meters. It's just easier to see what adjustment needs to be made on the Lunasix 3 (the red and green marks next to the yellow mark).

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Originally Posted by Ironage

Anyone use the enlarging attachment and can recommend it?


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I have the Gossen Lab and have used it quite extensively, but that was decades ago. I used it with my ProfiSix meter.

I bought both the meter and the enlarging attachment in 1985; I think I used it for enlarging until close to 1990. Once I purchased a Color Star colour analyser I didn't use it, except on the rare time I was in someone else's darkroom.

It is slightly cumbersome to use and understand, but once you know how to use it, it is quick and quite accurate. It can and does give a reliably close contrast setting of your negative to give you a starting point of which grade of paper should be close or very close. It also is very accurate in measuring exposure time differences for different sized prints from a known print size, or enlarger height size.

The best way is to remove the negative holder, turn off the darkroom lights, place the meter fitted with the Lab attachment and take a reading, null the meter. Then place the negative stage back, adjust to your desired new size, up or down. Repeat the procedure of exposing to the filtered enlarger light. One then has two possibilities, you can use the Gossen method using their charts and instructions, or do a quick read of where the needle is and note the exposure difference in 1/3 stops. I then adjust the timer to reflect the stop changes in time adjustment.

If you have a Gossen meter and you can acquire a Lab attachment cheap, go for it.

I like my SBC. It works fine. I also have a Gossen Pilot, which is smaller and lighter and doesn't rely on batteries (for sking.)
Oddly enough, my most used is an old Weston, which QLM converted over for me decades ago. QLM closing shop was a real loss.

If you're using the 7.5%/15% narrow metering attachment, here are the EV value adjustments:

For 15% setting-Plus 1.5 EV

For 7.5% setting-Plus 3 EV

Attachment 244679

the color symbols at the bottom of the dial are for the attachment, so no guessing is needed to adjust for compensation.

an interesting thread here
https://openphotographyforums.com/fo...e-meter.18478/

I use the LunaPro SBC and wouldn't switch. Granted, it is large but the versatility, ease of use and reliability are legendary and the availability of batteries (9v) are more than reason enough to keep me in the camp of "satisfied users"!
Joel

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Originally Posted by Paul Ron

Attachment 244679

the color symbols at the bottom of the dial are for the attachment, so no guessing is needed to adjust for compensation.

an interesting thread here
https://openphotographyforums.com/fo...e-meter.18478/

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Or…

Attachment 244681

What about the fact that these meters are old. A meter is something that needs to be trusted. Is it better to get a digital meter or a new meter. Would a new meter be more trust worthy. I do not want to through good money after bad.

Bought best Sekonic L758 2008

Really glad I did

I use rechargeable batteriy

Lousy case

I use it constantly

Even for prints when enlarging

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Originally Posted by Andy F

What about the fact that these meters are old. A meter is something that needs to be trusted. Is it better to get a digital meter or a new meter. Would a new meter be more trust worthy. I do not want to through good money after bad.

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There’s a fallacy that seems to predominate these days that “digital” is, by definition, better than anything old. It’s not necessarily so. There are some older technologies that have held up quite well. The LunaPro meters are one of them. They have their foibles, like the “memory effect” of the CdS cells, which isn’t nearly as bad as some people think it is. There are more good features than bad. Get to know the meter and it will work just fine in modern applications. Go cheap and bottom-feed could lead to a disappointing buy… or it could lead to a very functional bargain. It’s a matter of smart shopping versus new v older. But, yes, some older meters have had a hard life so shop carefully. More importantly, do what makes you feel most comfortable. Good luck.

I had a Luna Pro in the 1970's, then in the late 1980's, a Minolta III used mostly for incident readings. Then in the late 90's I bought the new Sekonic L508 that did everything I needed. Still have it.

Thanks Brian. Trial and error in finding what works for you can be quite expensive at times. It should be called the "iterative process tax" and not the "newbie tax" because it is a never ending process. It is really nice that people are so generous with their time and insights on this blog. I love hearing about what works for different people.

Hay Brian can you clarify what you mean by "memory effect” of the CdS cells". I just reread everybody's response. Did I miss something?

CdS cells, if pointed at a very bright light will register that light level correctly . If quickly pointed at a lower level light source, the CdS cell may not read accurately. That is the memory effect. It only lasts a matter of a few seconds before the light readings to read correctly again. Some people say “minutes” but that has never been my experience. Maybe if metering a welding torch, though.

This is one of the improvements when Luna Pro switched to silicon blue cell in the Luna Pro SBC meters. SBC does not exhibit that memory effect.

I am currently working on two Luna Pro (the original).

One has factory battery conversion and came to life after I repaired the obvious battery chamber issue (Corrosion ruined the tip of the battery contact which fell off covered in blue gunk. So I cleaned and resoldered it).

That one has calibration that I originally considered so good compared to my Sekonic L-758DR that I used it as my backup reference meter while working on Weston meters. (I believe it had been calibrated and left in a drawer for the battery to die)

Then I did battery conversion on the second one, using a 2.7 volt regulator circuit from Filip Dee. This conversion requires a switch, but the Luna Pro activates the battery via three different connections (battery check, high and low are independent).
I solved this by epoxying a surface mount "latch detect" switch from a spare old ZIP drive, positioned where the needle lock spring reaches when either the battery check or meter switch is activated. Consider it a weird workaround but it's effective.

On that meter the dates on the calibration sticker and the date the meter was marked NG are so close that I think it had been calibrated then dropped causing the needle to touch the glass.

Now that I have two identical meters, the differences in calibration are apparent. So far I haven't touched any of the variable resistors because both are so close. But I am considering calibrating them.

I've been using the same original Luna-Pro since 1979. I supplemented it with various flat meters (currently a Minolta IVF) and spot meters (Z-VI modified Pentax Digital that I lost somewhere out in the field). The Luna-Pro has been mostly a backup in recent times, but with a recent calibration by Richard Ritter, I use it with confidence.

My 2 cents ...

https://cameraartist.com/wp-content/...luna-pro-f.jpg

The old gray LunaPro meters will not be accurate or usable if you attempt to use alkaline or silver oxide batteries in them, as their voltage is too high. The meter's accuracy depends crucially on the voltage staying at exactly 1.35 volts for each of the two cells required. You can't just adjust the ISO rating, as the reading will go off at one end of the other. Zinc air hearing aid batteries will work, but the best solution is the battery conversion approach mentioned previously. On the other hand, a LunaPro F meter is bulky but accurate, takes a nine volt battery, and I have used one for years.

… and the good news is that the Gossen battery converter recently became available again!

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Originally Posted by Andy F

What about the fact that these meters are old. A meter is something that needs to be trusted. Is it better to get a digital meter or a new meter. Would a new meter be more trust worthy. I do not want to through good money after bad.

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I bought my Gossen Profi Six light meter in 1985 when on a visit to Germany.

Tremendous value and it has been with me on motorcycles, hikes, trucks, and various trips to quite a few countries where it has been transported in not really good circumstances. I really love this meter.

That said, late last year I thought I noticed something not quite right, I couldn't quite put my finger on it, but there was just something not 100%.

In June this year on a cold and wet winter trip, it really started playing up. Mainly the needle started to do a jig, or the meter wouldn't wake up. Working on the basis that it had served me well and really done a lot of work over the last 38 years, I decided to get something to replace it.

At my stage of life, any light meter I would be buying, should see me out. My parameters were smaller and lighter than my Gossen, which eventually steered me towards Sekonic. I picked up a Sekonic L-308X light meter which is slightly restrictive compared to the Gossen it is replacing, but so much better in many aspects.

It has aperture priority reading, which was one of my requirements as I select the aperture first, then decide on the shutter speed. It measures in full or half stops, 1/3 stops or 1/10 stops. At least I think they are the measurement parameters. Regardless, I used the meter in various settings and have finally settled on 1/10 aperture stop readout as what I like best.

Essentially I use incident readings with the Sekonic, and generally did so with the Gossen since 1985.

My thoughts as to whether I should get my Gossen serviced/repaired, or purchase a new light meter, favoured purchasing something new, as the cost of doing either, would be roughly the same.

I'm glad I did purchase this small Sekonic L-308X light meter; it does everything I need and there is more I could do with it but I don't need. In short, it should see me out.