Calumet Cambo
10" Kodak Commercial Ektar
Ilford Delta 100
Alien Bee 800
Photek Softlighter II
Attachment 188413
Attachment 188414
Printable View
Calumet Cambo
10" Kodak Commercial Ektar
Ilford Delta 100
Alien Bee 800
Photek Softlighter II
Attachment 188413
Attachment 188414
Great start! Beautiful blacks in there.
Been a while since I have been shooting anything but now I had the opportunity to shoot a local drag artist on my new Intrepid 8x10. So happy to be doing this again.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7823/...1dfbe635_c.jpg
Drag artist Jere Sivonen by Miska Närhi, on Flickr
The best from my first serious portrait session in 15 years. The composition is a little unconventional, but I am fairly happy with it. C&C welcome!
4x5 Tachihara, HP5, Ilford WTF. Scan from print. Another image from the session (MF, so not posted here), is posted in MF B&W Image sharing.
Self portrait
Sinar 8x10 Nikkor W 240mm
Fuji HR-U in Pyrocat-HD
Contact salt print, scanned
Attachment 188614
Model Blessing. Crown Graphic. Schneider Xenar 135mm f4.7. FP4.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7867/...3fcb6cf2_b.jpg
Blessing, back profile by Howard Sandler, on Flickr
Amazing model, great shot, a feast for the eyes ! Thanks for sharing
Goniochromatype - hand colored..
Thea posed
24x30cm
First quick test
30x40cm / 12x16 inch DIY Camera
Aero ektar 24"
Xray Film
]https://i.ibb.co/bH4jkwT/34185519-18...94741248-n.jpg
Good work, Luke!
Terrific work Luke..............
..........and how about posting an image or two of said Camera. Thanks hopefully in advance
regards
Andrew
Like
a number of studio portraits, shot with the Toyo/Omega View 45D:
Shot on expired and mostly underexposed T-Max 100 (at some point I will have to admit that I'm really bad in transferring digital readings to analog exposure in the studio):
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7852/...3a1c6534_n.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1971/...53cc477d_n.jpg
Shot on expired and cross-processed Fuji CDU film. First one was horribly underexposed/underdeveloped.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7801/...dc7ddefe_n.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7885/...ed4723e9_n.jpg
The first three were shot with the Schneider Xenar 150mm/f5.6, the last one was shot with the Sinaron-S 240mm/f5.6.
No photoshop apart from spotting.
They look great to me! If you're talking about getting light levels set with a digital camera, my experience is that the digital cameras are significantly more sensitive at a given rating than film is.
Took and developed this one today.
But now that I see it this way I see some strange things going on... Like... noise?
Kodak T-Max 400
Ilfosol 3 (1/9)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7812/...ddc4af6a_b.jpgAstridStockmans by Smith De Westelinck, on Flickr
Love it Luke
They look like scanning / sharpening artifacts... is this the first time you encounter this??
Yes, I need to be over-exposing by at least one stop when I shoot in the studio (and use the light meter of the digital cameras). But I constantly forget to do so. :rolleyes:
Long time lurker, my first contribution to the portrait threads!
Wista 45 SP, Rodenstock Sironar-N 210mm at f8.0. Kodak T-Max 100 developed in ilford DD-X. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...031336e6e1.jpg
Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
It took me years to shoot good portraits, and I still get whole sessions that come out totally crappy.
And hey, let's be frank: 70% of a good portrait is the model, the styling and the make-up, the other 20% is the light and the background setting (which, yes, need to be in sync with the model, the styling and the make-up) and 10% is getting the frame and the focusing right. This applies to all formats, digital or analog, small, medium or large.
Terrific photo, Jose!
Yes, indeed, Jose! What a wonderful way to introduce yourself!
Just got the one that was matched to my Speed decades ago.
Reunited as I see it, with period mounting solution on a Speed board.
I will never be able to use it hand held, so, tripods R Us.
I spent last Sunday shooting free tintype portraits at the local Western Photographic Historical Society's annual camera show/swapmeet. Good practice, shooting 11 plates in a day. Most were waxed and went home with the sitters, but those in the club let me take them home to varnish and will get them soon. Here's one of a local photo-historian/collector, a 6x8 plate done with a Murphy Eagle Quick-Working Portrait Petzval...
Thanks, Jim! It was a chance to burn up some old collodion that still shot nice but had some minor artifact issues. I shot very clean plates at the event a couple of years ago, and some people wanted to know why the artifacts were missing!
It's not art if it doesn't have some artifacts.
Well done Jose!
Hey Jose, amazing image! In what EI did you rate that T-Max 100, and what about development time/method?
I am getting sub-par results with HC-110, though I have to admit I tend to (sometimes horribly) under-expose.
Here's from today's session, shot with the Aero Ektar on Kodak T-Max 100. I had to underexpose this one (can't get lower than 1/30 with the Speed Graphic's focal plane shutter), but then I over-developed (12 mins with HC-110B) to even things out a bit:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7883/...34d8809e_n.jpg
...and I have to say, I hadn't used this lens for quite a bit, and now I remember why. Extremely low contrast and "dreamy" look. I much prefer the modern lenses. :cool:
Hey Thodoris,
I can completely corroborate your views on T-Max 100 and I've come to consistently overexpose it by 1 or even 2 stops to avoid ending up with very thin negatives. I actually forgot to do so in the above image, and resorted to an N+1 development (the grain is virtually non existing in a 4x5 neg). I use the Film Developer Pro android app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...y.darkroom.pro) which allows me to compensate the development recipe accounting for the temperature of the developer and any pushing or pulling.
I really like the look of ilford DD-X but I find it can result in fairly grainy FP4, thought T-Max seems to hold up better. I hear that D-76 and Tmax is the way to go, but have no experience with this developer (maybe someone can comment?)
Really great portraits on your IG! How are you doing with colour? I'm still struggling with Portra in large format.
I've been using HC-110 for a long time now, which holds up greatly and can be used easily for any format (I shoot 135, 120, 4x5), but lately I feel that there's a little extra "pop" missing, especially in the 4x5 negatives.
I also use the Film Developer Pro application, but I have refined the developing times to fit my process. For some reason the application's times could always do with a couple of extra minutes, though this may be bad metering on my part (for the studio shots, at least) or something to do with the water.
I haven't shot any Portra in LF yet, though I'm shooting loads of it in 120. I feel it's the best color film available, as long as you combine it with a streamlined developing and scanning process. All that stuff goes out to a lab, which guarantees perfect development, and gets scanned in a Noritsu.
Instead, I've come across a huge batch of expired Fuji CDU II 4x5 duplicating film, which comes out extremely nicely when cross-processed in C-41. So, I get credible, good results, for a very low price. Hardest thing is keeping everything proper when home-developing it (on a Jobo CPE processor).
I'd say that the main problem of color in LF portraits is that it needs a hugely different styling/make-up and lighting process compared to black & white. When you get everything arranged, though, it comes out amazing.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7851/...19f2a5e8_c.jpg
Marko
Kodak Aero Ektar wide open on Graflex Speed Graphic and expired Polaroid 55.
Started as an 18x24 cm paper negative...
Large Goniochromatype (ca 40x47cm)
Mother of pearl paint mixed with a little coffee as backing