-
Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I have a new (to me) Durst 138S with a B&W condensor head on the way to me. There is quite a bit of pleasant anticipation on my part; first decent enlarger that I had (still have, in fact) was/is a Durst 606 whose purchase price represented an entire week's pay for me from the summer job that I had 47 years ago. It is time for me to consider which replacement bulbs I'll need for my second jewel from Bolzano.
What bulbs are currently available for use in the B&W head with the Latico 240 condensors for 5x7? I'm aware that this question has been discussed here in the past but sources of the bulbs and availability of specific part numbers seem change frequently.
GE sells a 100W opal bulb (part #G40, 4 3/4" in diameter) that I've found to be useable with a 5x7 Elwood (on a socket extender). This bulb is available nearly everywhere and even has the label down near the lamp base like a PH series enlarger bulb. At about $5 each, this would seem to be a sensible one to try. Lowe's offers a Sylvania 150W bulb of similar physical dimensions.
What bulbs are other Durst 138 owners using and where do you find them?
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
One just sold on ebay yesterday. 10 bids to about $137 USD.
That bulb you are showing looks nice but maybe 100w is not enough. One thing I had always thought of is to take a glass cutter and remove the top part of that bulb your are showing and rig it up in front of the more common 250w smaller enlarger bulbs.
Another thing that might be worthwhile is using diffuser material somewhere between the bulb and the negative and again see if you can get the $5 PH213 250W lamp to create an even field.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I think the Idea is a large diffuse light source bulb,the original bulbs are like 5" or so in diameter.I was thinking if a 200 or 300 watt smaller bulb could be used if a larger frosted glass lamp could be inserted in-front of the smaller bulb,thus spreading out its light more uniformly. Could be a cheap fix.
Mike
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I still have two of the original Thorn bulbs that I am not using. One is 300 watts and the second is 500 watts. I personally converted my 138S to more of a point light source by designing a new reflector and incorporating a 1200 watt lamp. This involved quite a bit of trial and error to arrive at a new lamp placement and reflector design and installation. This necessitated a number of other changes among them was the installation of a sizeable cooling fan. Without the cooling fan the lamp that I use will melt glass. If I were redoing this modification today I would opt for a 600 watt lamp. I have converted other enlargers with the lower wattage lamp (600-650 watt) and they worked out very well.
With the point lamp, one can use diffusion material in the internal filter drawer to create varying degrees of diffusion. I would think that diffusion used in conjunction with a smaller diffuse lamp envelope may work better than without diffusion. The point lamp that I use gives me results more in keeping with those that Brett Weston achieved with his point source 138...contrast is enhanced and sharpness is without equal.
Jensen Optical had, at one time, a conversion kit for these older enlargers. I don't know if Jens still offers these or not.
In my experience the 212/213 lamps that have a smaller envelope that some have used are too low wattage for what I needed.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Graybeard,
To address the issue of no new replacement bulbs being available, Jensen Optical has designed a new system to address that problem: http://www.durst-pro-usa.com/lamp_kit.htm
To get around the issue of the clear bulb they use, (essentially a point source with a large filament), they provide a heat filter and opal glass. On my V184 condenser head there is a metal bracket on the lamp side of the divider that supports the first condensor before the mirrors. That is where one could install the heat filter and opal glass.
From the notes on the little bit of research I have done thus far:
1. Current large Thorn bulbs and replacements have not been made in some time (over 25 years?), and are available only on secondary market and rarely found, and expensive if seller knows of rarity. Bulbs have unusual envelope sort of a cross between a standard “A” and “G”. Diameter is approx. 4-1/4” (e.g. G34 or A34), and MOL is approx. 7-3/8”.
2. Larger photo bulbs, not generally available and expensive ($200 to $300 at donsbulbs.com) when available. At 300W or greater, a cooling blower is recommended.
a. PH/300 ANSI – 150W, 3100⁰K, PS30 glass, C9 filament, MOL 8.19”, 100 hours, 3300 lumens
b. PH/301 ANSI – 300W, 3150⁰K, PS30 glass, C9 filament, MOL 8.19”, 100 hours, 6650 lumens
c. PH/302 ANSI – 500W, 3200⁰K, PS30 glass, C9 filament, MOL 8.19”, 100 hours, 11000 lumens
3. Need to research and experiment on replacement lamps. The use of an opal glass diffusion panel before the first condenser in the enlarger will mitigate the impact of a smaller light source. Whether it will be enough for even illumination remains the question. Potential additional solutions include:
a. Lamps with large envelopes (e.g. G40), but variation between lamps (spectrum) may be high.
b. Halogen lamps with an E26 base, so no modification to the enlarger is required.
c. Halogen lamps with another style base, but with an adapter that could handle the heat involved.
Anyways, it will be something I will need to address, but having two 100w Thorn bulbs and a PH/302 500w will give me some respite once I get the enalrger set up.
Hope the information is helpful to you,
Len
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Donald,with the 600 650 watt lamp did you have to use a cooling fan.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I've been using 200w Chiyoda bulbs for some time and still have 2 or 3 spare, but don't know yet what to do when they're gone.
Those bulbs are kind of flat and have about 8cm diameter and I managed to use it with both 138s and L 1000, although a piece of difuser may help sometimes.
Actually, I was expecting a solution using Led arrays or something alike, but it seems only trials have been made and nothing came to market so far.
Have anyone had success using this method?
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Micheal Clark
Donald,with the 600 650 watt lamp did you have to use a cooling fan.
Yes, I did. Although the fan I used with the 650 watt lamp was a lower CFM than my fan on the 1200 watt lamp.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ic-racer
One just sold on ebay yesterday. 10 bids to about $137 USD.
I forgot to mention that things could be worse. I recently got two spare bulbs for my CLS2000 and each bulb was over DOUBLE that price. Plus, these bulbs don't come with the dichroic reflector. That is an additional $1800 if you need it.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Thank you all for the helpful comments.
I'll probably begin by trying the 150W Sylvania G40 bulb and see if the source intensity is adequate for me.
With my Elwood 5x7, the GE G40 100W bulb gave useful exposures of 20-30 seconds at f8 when I enlarged a normal density 5x7 negative to 11x14 using a #3 Ilford Multigrade filter. I would expect quite a bit of light loss to have occured with the diffusion plate in the Elwood. The condensor system of the Durst should be more efficient and have less transmission light loss. The 150W G40 bulb may prove just adequate; given the low cost of this bulb, it won't be an expensive experiment.
If not, there are plenty of other ideas here for me to try.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Graybeard
I would expect quite a bit of light loss to have occured with the diffusion plate in the Elwood. The condensor system of the Durst should be more efficient and have less transmission light loss. The 150W G40 bulb may prove just adequate; given the low cost of this bulb, it won't be an expensive experiment.
Graybeard,
Indeed it should be more efficient as the condensers focus the light onto the negative.
Also ensure you align / focus the bulb. The Durst has an elegant system to correctly position the bulb for ultimate focus based upon the condensers used and lens focal length.
There is a good article on the Durst USA site (Jensen Optical) on design and use of condenser systems: http://www.durst-pro-usa.com/world_images/artcon.htm
Hope that helps,
Len
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Graybeard
f8
Yes, if you can use f8 that will really help.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Graybeard
.......
I'll probably begin by trying the 150W Sylvania G40 bulb and see if the source intensity is adequate for me.
Someone else had suggested this bulb a while back, I was leery because it is designated a "decorative" bulb and worried about flicker etc.
How did you find the 100w version in the Elwood?
I have found 150 watts to be good for most of my printing needs, I keep a 250 watt close by for some prints that may need the extra.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Allen in Montreal
Someone else had suggested this bulb a while back, I was leery because it is designated a "decorative" bulb and worried about flicker etc.
How did you find the 100w version in the Elwood?
I have found 150 watts to be good for most of my printing needs, I keep a 250 watt close by for some prints that may need the extra.
The G40 that I used provided steady light without flicker. The "decorative" designation probably refers to the shperical shape, large size, and opal coating.
I substituted the G40 bulb for the huge PH302 that was in the Elwood when it arrived here. It was necessary to use two hardware store socket extenders to locate the G40 bulb center at the same position as had been the case with the PH 302.
As I mentioned in my earlier posting, the light intensity provides useable exposure times for me. The brighter 150W Sylvania G40 bulb should be even better.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I use the PH211, PH212, and PH213 bulbs on my 138. These produce somewhat higher contrast than the thorn bulbs, but the coverage is fine, at least up to 4x5 negatives.
Cheers,
-andrew
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
quine
I use the PH211, PH212, and PH213 bulbs on my 138. These produce somewhat higher contrast than the thorn bulbs, but the coverage is fine, at least up to 4x5 negatives.
Cheers,
-andrew
Ditto on the PH213.
I've been using one in the Durst 138S with completely acceptable results. A typical exposure lately is 30 seconds at f22 for a cropped 11x14 from a 5x7 negative.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Damn,
I forgot to get back to this thread, I did a entire series of tests with a few potential replacements, and then proceeded to sell off my last original Durst bulbs.
An electrical engineer friend ran the test with me.
i will post some pictures and the result this week.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Allen I would be very interested in your results,as I have a 138 allso and one of the thron blubs, think it is 200 watt though.I use 5x7 film.
Mike
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Allen in Montreal
Damn,
I forgot to get back to this thread, I did a entire series of tests with a few potential replacements, and then proceeded to sell off my last original Durst bulbs.
An electrical engineer friend ran the test with me.
i will post some pictures and the result this week.
We're holding our breath Allen.
Very interested in the results of your study.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I am sorry for the delay guys, I am over whelmed with work these days and I just can't keep up.
And now I can't find the notes I made while Marie was doing the math and results for me.
So unfortunately, I have rely on memory for a summery.
Marie is an electrical engineer in a large R+D lab, a complete MENSA type and a perfectionist.
I completely trust her word 100 %.
The search for new bulbs (she came to the lighting suppliers to look at the bulbs with me) started with IC Racer and Graybeard. I took this chance to decide what I needed and bought a box of replacement bulbs now, to ensure future supply, for my Leica V35, the Durst 1200 and the Durst 138. I should be set for life on all fronts.
I wanted a bulb to replace the Durst 200 watt units I have, I find the 300 too bright, even the PH213 at 250 is too bright.
When I picked up a load of Durst gear, there were some bulbs for the Durst I could not identify. IC helped there and shortly after Graybeard posted he was using a G40 bulb which I never considered because it is sold in the "ornamental" bulb section.
So I went in the darkroom and printed with the following bulbs.
PH212 (150 watt)
PH213 (250 watt)
PH302 (500 watt)
Original Durst 200 Watt
Original Durst 300 Watt
150 watt G40 with E26 base.
300 watt 120 volt 3 way with Mogel E 39 base
300 watt 130 volt 3 way with Mogel E 39 base
After many prints, and measuring light fall off etc.
The original bulb was, as most things Durst, perfect!
But at over $100.00 a bulb, I was not looking to buy a bunch of these as backup and sold my last bulbs off.
The PH302 covers perfectly, runs at the right color temp, but is just too bright for my needs but it would be a very suitable replacement for those who can run 500 watts.
The PH300 (150 watts and $200 each at Don's bulbs) would be a great bulb for me, but they are brutally hard to find at reasonable $$.
The PH300 series are rated for a 100 hour life cycle.
I have found the PH212, which is my preferred wattage, will sometimes have light fall off in the corners with a 5x7 negative. So this was an OK substitute, but not ideal.
Both the E39 based lamps covered the 5x7 negative area well. The globe is a little smaller than the original, but we could not see an issue with lack of coverage in the corners and she could not measure any fall off worth noting in the application at hand (scientists can always find some measurable amount of something or other, but she concluded for the application, it was not worth noting).
The idea of the 300 watt 130 volt E39 base was scrapped quickly even while I liked the idea of the larger globe (these bulbs came to me in a Durst haul and were being used in a Durst 184).
I wanted less wattage and running the 130 volt gave me about a 1/2 stop less. Marie showed me the math to illustrate what the lamp should give off, just below (as I recall??) 250 watts not running at the correct voltage. The color shift from not running at full voltage and how that might affect MG filters etc was a concern for me, but we did not bother to pursue this because we had determined we had a suitable replacement and it was not worth the effort to see if my concerns were well founded or not.
The G40 150 watt bulb worked on every level, wattage and size to cover the corners with a 5x7 negative.
The 3 way 300 watt E39 base worked also. The slightly smaller globe showed no corner fall off worth noting. Again, maybe a scientist could measure some and argue the point, but Marie concluded for the application, it was not worth noting.
At the end of session we determined that the G40 lamp with the E26 base was a suitable replacement in the 150 watt level. The G40 has a life expectancy rated at 1000 plus hours.
The 3 way 300 watt E39 base (rated 1000 hours) was very suitable replacement in the 250/300 watt level.
At 7 dollars a bulb for the 3 way 300 watt and 6 dollars for the G40 , I bought a case of each and stashed them under the stairs for future use.
In the mix, I tried some old Sylvania long neck PH301 copies I have.
They seemed to work ok, the globe is slightly smaller than the real PH302 but the coverage was acceptable so I stashed this as backup too.
The G40 wins for daily use, I keep one 3 way 300 watt under the enlarger for special needs.
-
Durst 138S Replacement Bulbs
Final group of pix.
One pix is a repeat, I forgot to label the bulbs.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Allen,
A little more informatioin please...
1. Did you try the same evaluation for the Durst L184 condenser enlarger? If so, what are the results?
2. What is the application for the three way bulb with the E39 base? What is the approximagte diameter of that bulb (G40 => Globe shaped envelope, 40 x 1/8" diameter)?
Thank you for your efforts,
Len
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Hi Len,
I will measure the bulbs and post tonight.
I only tested in the 138.
But the man I got my 1200 from had been successfully using the 3 way 130 volt bulb (at left in the picture below, next to a standard PH213) in his 184.
I do not doubt the G40 would work as it is larger than the original bulb. I am rather sure the 3 way 120 volt would work also as it is only slightly smaller than the original.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Hello !
I own the Laborator 1000, 4x5 version of the 138. (same vintage). As I'm living in Europe, I need 220V bulbs. And they're out.
So I made experiments. Durst state that the 150 and 300 W bulbs specified for this enlarger should have a bulb size of 100 mm (4") for even lighting on the baseboard.
These bulbs (the 250 and 300W where also specified for the 138.
The only available bulbs in Europe right now for enlarger use are at max 250 W but with the globe of 65 mm diameter. Even with accurate centering it is very difficult to even the light on the baseboard.
So please consider the apparent diameter of the bulb the condenser see...
I had success by putting a frosted glass between the bulb and the mirror. This way lighting difference on the baseboard is less that 1/3 of a stop which is very good.
I would be glad to get my hands on 100 mm diameter bulbs in 220V and 150 or 200 W at affordable prices.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
WOW, thats great Allen.Thanks for taking the time and effort, give's new hope for an old enlarger!
Mike
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Hi Len,
Here are the measurements for the bulbs I have on hand, I have a note somewhere with the original bulb, but since I don't have anymore on hand, I will have to dig that note up if I can.
The packaging does not give an application for the E39 base 300 watt.
PH302:
3 1/2" inch globe, 7 1/2" in length E26 base.
G40 150 watt E26:
4 1/2" globe, 6 1/2" in length E26 base.
3 way 300 watt 120 v E39:
3 1/4" globe, 6 1/2" in length. E39 base.
3 way 300 watt 130 v E39:
3 1/2" globe, 6 1/2" in length E39 base.
GE long neck: 3' globe, 6" in length
I mentioned these were Sylvania but they are GE. Labeled Canadian National.
I bought a darkroom kit from CN Rail 20 years ago and these bulbs were in a box marked "Durst".
PH212 / 213
2 1/2" globe, 4 1/2' in length E 26 base.
PS:
There were some very large globe (as in 6inch globe) 500 watt bulbs, the dealer would love to get rid of, if anyone wants to try them in a 184, let me know and I will go back and buy them for you. They were not true photo bulbs based on the coating, but I bet they would work with a slight diffusion on the heat absorbing glass holder in the 184.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Very nice work Allen.
In the spirit of being helpful, I'll repeat myself regarding the length of the G40/150W Bulb. If the neck length is shorter than what you enlarger requires, you can easily and inexpensively make up the difference with extension adapters available at hardware stores and the big box home centers.
I used two of these two bring to the center of a G40 to the same location as the center of the original PH 203 bulb in my Elwood 5x7.
Not every supplier in the US has the G40 in 150W size. Lowe's stocks them, Home Depot does not. There are plenty of these bulbs available from the web light bulb specialists.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Graybeard
Very nice work Allen.
...... extension adapters.......
Not every supplier in the US has the G40 in 150W size. Lowe's stocks them, Home Depot does not. There are plenty of these bulbs available from the web light bulb specialists.
Thank you on two levels, for the kind words and for pushing me to try the G40.:)
The 138 and the 184 should not require and extension as your Elwood did.
The G40 and the 300 watt lined up perfected with the built in bulb placement system.
I would be curious to know if anyone has first hand knowledge if a lamp running at say 2700k instead of the standard 3200k would in fact (or not) affect the paper speed and MG filter responsiveness?
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Allen,
The notes I have on the Thorn bulb are:
Bulbs have unusual envelope sort of a cross between a standard “A” and “G”. Diameter is approx. 4-1/4” (e.g. G34 or A34), and MOL is approx. 7-3/8”.
Looking further in an old GE lamp catalogue, it looks like the envelope is a "G".
Best regards,
Len
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Thanks Graybeard and Allen, this is great info.
I just picked up a Durst L1000, and using the info you provided, I figured my "affordable" replacement bulb is a white G30 bulb. w/o this info I would have passed on the enlarger simply because of lack of a bulb for 4x5.
Now the only thing left to do is figure out what wattage(s) I want 40, 60 or 100w. On my smaller Durst M600 I was using a 75w bulb and even then I sometimes wish I had a lower wattage bulb, to give me more workable exposure times. Heck at the cheap price I might get all 3 (40, 60 & 100w) then use whichever I need for the particular printing job.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I now use the 300 watt utility bulb (frosted) from Sylvania. It is Big, Beautiful, Hot and Cheep. I got all the parts to do an LED conversion but when my original Durst bulb gave up the ghost I was in the middle of making some prints that had to get done. Without time to fiddle with the LED's I went around the house trying every bulb I had on hand. The 3-way bulbs were not long enough. When I got to the room where I was putting up some new drywall the right light bulb turned on. I borrowed the 300 watt utility from the temporary light fixture I was using and I have been using this bulb, unmodified, in my 138 with good results. You have to move the bulb around just like you had to with the original bulbs as the filaments change with age. My Durst 138 makes this easy. It has the added advantage of warming up my cold basement darkroom. I just got 3 more form my local lumber yard - 7$ a bulb. The LED supplies are still in the box on the shelf.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
May I ask you for a bulb number?
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Dear Curt,
The light bulb is Sylvania PS30 frosted and the SKU number is 046135157356.
2photo
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
PS30 => Pear Shaped glass envelope, 3-3/4" at its maximum (3.75 x 0.125=30), with MOL (Maximum Overall Length) of just over 8" (8.06"), according to the GE lamp catalogue.
That should help to identify you have the right lamp when you pick it up...
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I found the sylvania bulb. There is a 15735 and a 15738. The only difference is the voltage as far stainless steel I can see. 120v - 130v. The 130v run on 115 - 120v would last longer I believe.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
I tried the ROSCO LITEPAD OH, this LED light tile seems to work. They come in different dimensions, so you can pick one that fits the drawer in which the Durst's 138S heat absorbing filter is held.
The light isn't 'hard' nor diffuse, but with the ROSCO spot accessory, that is a kind of Fresnel lens foil, the light looks more like the traditional light coming from the original bulb AND it is intenser. Exposure times are about the same.
But don't forget to put a full CTO and a 1/8 minus Green filter beneath the light source, just to correct the light from 5200°K to 2800°K what is about the same as a bulb, and to eliminate the LED's greenish cast.
I have done it with my Cromega D3 4"x5" enlarger to, just put a Rosco Litepad above the condenser…
I timer switch the LED tile, that works on 12V, via an electromagnetic switch, commanded by the timer, between the transformer (230V —> 12v) and the LED tile. So I only switch the 12V line, not the 230V transformer feed.
The original Rosco transformer is some kind of an ballast with a power capacitor in it, so when disconnected from the net power, the LED light tend to 'glow' for an short while.
PS: sorry if the technical terms are not correctly spelled, English is only my third language...
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
hallo
there is so much place in the lamphouse i mounted a led spot inside without caring about the lightcolor etc.
it works fine.
at apug are some threads about those conversions.
regards
thomas
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Has anyone who uses the 150 watt G40 bulb have any issues with the visible "filament" inside the globe showing up in prints? Do you need to use a piece of diffusion plexi in the filter holder? Thanks, Luis
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ic-racer
One just sold on ebay yesterday. 10 bids to about $137 USD.
Heck, they were $63 for the 300 W and $85 for the 500 W new from Durst 25 years ago when I bought mine! L
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Now they are a thorn in the sides of restorers.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Luis-F-S
Has anyone who uses the 150 watt G40 bulb have any issues with the visible "filament" inside the globe showing up in prints? Do you need to use a piece of diffusion plexi in the filter holder? Thanks, Luis
I only used the G40 bulbs with my Elwood and had no problem at all with the filament being visible. The G40 bulbs that I used had a pretty thick white coating on the glass which seems to mask the filament image quite well.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
As I wait for my Durst 138 to arrive, sometime after Christmas, I dream of lightbulbs. ;-) I have bought some of the 300W PS30 bulbs but wonder what you people think of these 150W bulbs:
https://www.interlight.biz/light-bul...-LABORATOR-138
which are billed as being a replacement for the Durst 138! Too slow at 150W?
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
It doesn't look anything like the bulb in my 138, Larry. However my enlarger is almost 2,000 miles away at this time, so I can't photograph it until the holidays.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Don't forget to use a blower for the condenser housing with the 300 Watt bulbs.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Whoops, where do I find a blower?
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Grainger, & the like. Don't need much cfm, my CLS 301 does not have any info on the fan and it's 220v, but any small blower in the range of say 10-15 cfm should do. Ginette, any ideas?
Maybe something like this:
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYT...Code=P2IDP2PCP
You'd have to adapt a hose to the flange, and also provide a small foam filter.
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Maybe a Beseler blower will do the job, one actually very low priced 141479971897
This model is for the Beseler DG-1 Dicroic Colorhead , product #Beseler Blower 31285
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Yup, I went ahead and bought, I'll let you know how it works when it arrives. It's nice to have an extra blower for when I use the condenser head. I'll see if the same hose from the CLS 301 will work, if not, off to the Depot. L
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
Shoot, I was asleep at the keyboard! I guess I got to get the Grainger one. Is it overkill? Does this suck or blow air? Where do I put the foam filter?
-
Re: Durst 138S Replacement Bubs
On my 138 the fan sucks the hot air form the top and cool air comes in thru the bottom vent, most efficient that way.
Mike