Jobo Expert Sheet Drum OR Mod54 Large Format Film Processor?

I have been successfully tray developing black & white sheet film, both 4x5 and 8x10, for 30 years. I'm about to attempt developing 4x5 color negatives and I'm thinking that I won't be able to properly maintain the chemistry's temperature in open trays. So I'm looking to the forum for advice.

For those of you who use either the Jobo Expert Sheet Drum or the Mod54 Large Format Film Processor in a Paterson, or similar, tank, could you give me the pros and cons for those processing formats? Are there other processing methods any of you would recommend?

Many thanks!

I process 8x10 in a Jobo 3005 tank, and 4x5 in a 25xx series tank using 2509 reels. I've done color in both and the results were terrific.
The Jobo tanks take all the guesswork and error out of sheet film processing.
I didn't use a temperature bath when processing color, the tanks hold the temperature well.

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Originally Posted by Ari

I process 8x10 in a Jobo 3005 tank, and 4x5 in a 25xx series tank using 2509 reels. I've done color in both and the results were terrific.
The Jobo tanks take all the guesswork and error out of sheet film processing.
I didn't use a temperature bath when processing color, the tanks hold the temperature well.

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Thanks, Ari! Do you have the whole Jobo processing system, or do you just roll the tanks on a countertop?

I know you didn't mention it, but the SP-445 isn't a bad option. Mine has a distressing tendency to leak (even with the squeeze), partly I suspect because I've noticed once or twice the level on the vent side being higher than the level on the fill side. But it's only one or two drops at most per inversion cycle.

The good news is, it uses very little chemistry-- they claim 475ml, but 450ml is closer (with frames and film, 450ml fills it to the tab inside the fill spout).

I've developed several batches of 4 sheets in the SP-445 with no issues.

There is a new reel available, either from the Film Photography Project (4x5), or from 20th Century Camera (4x5 and all the rest), that consists of 3 3D printed pieces on a tube-- they have versions for 4x5, 5x7, 8x10 and some of the oddballs like 6x9 and 9x12. I haven't used mine yet, but the loading process is fairly easy compared with, say, the mod54 (which I've never liked because it's too easy to get sheets cross-loaded). Lay it on it's side (hexagonal ends), find the load slots, get it started, push with thumbs until it "clicks". Rotate to next side, repeat. Holds 6 sheets, and will fit in jobo/paterson tanks that take 3 reels (for the 4x5-- the 8x10 probably needs a bit more jobo).

The middle clip section looks a little flimsy, but if you don't abuse it, but the printing is well done, and should hold up to normal use.

As for temperature, I get all my chemicals up to 103 (+1 degree) in glass bottles in a water bath, and by the time I've measured and poured them into the developing tank, they're usually at the right temperature and stay that way through the relatively short developer / blix cycles.

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Originally Posted by grat

I know you didn't mention it, but the SP-445 isn't a bad option. Mine has a distressing tendency to leak (even with the squeeze), partly I suspect because I've noticed once or twice the level on the vent side being higher than the level on the fill side. But it's only one or two drops at most per inversion cycle.

The good news is, it uses very little chemistry-- they claim 475ml, but 450ml is closer (with frames and film, 450ml fills it to the tab inside the fill spout).

I've developed several batches of 4 sheets in the SP-445 with no issues.

There is a new reel available, either from the Film Photography Project (4x5), or from 20th Century Camera (4x5 and all the rest), that consists of 3 3D printed pieces on a tube-- they have versions for 4x5, 5x7, 8x10 and some of the oddballs like 6x9 and 9x12. I haven't used mine yet, but the loading process is fairly easy compared with, say, the mod54 (which I've never liked because it's too easy to get sheets cross-loaded). Lay it on it's side (hexagonal ends), find the load slots, get it started, push with thumbs until it "clicks". Rotate to next side, repeat. Holds 6 sheets, and will fit in jobo/paterson tanks that take 3 reels (for the 4x5-- the 8x10 probably needs a bit more jobo).

The middle clip section looks a little flimsy, but if you don't abuse it, but the printing is well done, and should hold up to normal use.

As for temperature, I get all my chemicals up to 103 (+1 degree) in glass bottles in a water bath, and by the time I've measured and poured them into the developing tank, they're usually at the right temperature and stay that way through the relatively short developer / blix cycles.

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Thanks, Grat. I didn't mention the Stearman because the holders look a bit flimsy to me. Also, I'd rather be able to develop more than four at a time. But thanks for the info, nonetheless.

I’ve used Jobo processors for as long as I can remember. It makes temperature control and processing in general painfully simple. Especially for sheet film. It also uses very little chemistry. I can’t speak towards the Mod54, I’ve never used one. I don’t know anyone that processes color sheet film in trays, I can’t imagine the difficulty in maintaining such temperatures in tray.

-Joshua

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Originally Posted by Robert Kalman

Thanks, Ari! Do you have the whole Jobo processing system, or do you just roll the tanks on a countertop?

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Robert, I use a motorized base. I feed the chemicals into the 3005 tank while it's spinning, through a length of tube attached to a funnel.
I used to roll the tank on the countertop, but the base makes things easier and gives more even development.

Get the motorized base if you use a 3005. The CPP/CPA processors are huge and really unnecessary for B&W sheet film. Just do some testing to calibrate your development times using the motorized base at room temperature. The Beseler bases that have a switch to change rotation are the best. But if you get a Unicolor that does not change rotation you can manually turn the drum around. FYI, the drums tend to "creep" as they roll so I used a heavy object on each end to limit the movement. I used a piece of heavy galvanized steel fence post on a wide flange positioned vertically on each end to keep the drum from moving too much.

I thought about using a funnel like Ari does but found it unnecessary. Just lift the drum and dump, fill, and put back on base.

Rolling manually on the counter or on a manual roller base is more mind-numbing than watching the motorized base!

I vote for the Jobo. The processor and lift make it easy. However a drum roller, pick your choice. Try to pre warm the tank a bit. When I used Paterson tanks I would stick the tank under my shirt and warm it up with body heat. Negative film is forgiving. The hose funnel thing would be nice, you would definitely want to practice.

I have a Jobo and 3 expert drums. I also have a set of Jobo rollers on which I often hand rotate the drums. When I process film, I can note no difference in the finished product regardless of the method used.

I've never used an expert drum; I use the 25xx drum & reel for 4x5. When I started out with 4x5 I got a Mod54 and used it for a while. It worked OK, but loading it was a bit of a trick and I sometimes had issues with sheets coming loose from the holder when agitating. More importantly, the holder had the tendency of creating surge marks on the edges of the film (well into the image area) with some developers, e.g. pyrocat. The 25xx Jobo drum and 2509N reel work perfectly and are in my opinion a little easier to load as well.

I have moved from MOD54s to Jobo 3010 Expert Drums.

I use a Jobo CPP with the lift mechanism to drive the 3010s.

It is a much more expensive initial set-up with the CPP + 3010 - but the results are fabulous.

Also, the processing is really low intensity - all you have to do is to sit back and watch the timings.

I found the MOD54 OK - but only OK

I have had the occasionally the following problems :-

• odd none-uniform developed negative (stripe across the film in line with one of the film holder fingers)
• scratched film back scratching (I have the original laser cut MOD54 film holders)
• an occasional sheet of film that either completely escapes from the film holder if the sheet is on the outside or escapes and snuggles up to the next sheet outwards - which gives blotchy film development to the masked sheet of film

I was always mindful of not agitating the Paterson Tank/MOD54 Film Holder carefully - as the sheets of film have a large sail area and if you were to be too vigorous, it was quite easy to dislodge a sheet of film from the Film Holder.

So, if you can afford it - I'd recommend you go with the Jobo set up with the Expert Tanks.

I'm never using any of my MOD54 film holders ever again.

Martin

+1 for Jobo And Expert Drums. For sheet film this is the relaxing way to go. I only do tray developing with film over 8x10.


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Trying the B's with Patterson tank and inversion for 4x5. Previously my best results were dip and dunk using the combi film holder and some yankee tanks in the dark (see the home page for that method). The B's reel is likely better for the shared darkroom I am in now.