Does use of WD-40 to loosen "frozen" brass harm glass in old brass lens?

I was reading a post this morning where a member used WD-40 to soak an old brass lens to free up the stuck brass and then be able to remove the glass. Does WD-40 harm the glass? Does anybody have any experience with this approach to free up old stuck brass lens? I have used the rubber straps etc to free up the glass or brass lens hoods, but have not tried WD-40. Thoughts? Suggestions?

WD-40 may do it, but I would worry about being able to thoroughly clean the glass after the fact.

WD-40 Is a water dispersant. Try Kroil which is a very effective penetrating oil.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hermes07

WD-40 Is a water dispersant. Try Kroil which is a very effective penetrating oil.

---

+1 on the Kroil. WD-40 will eventually dry to a gunky sticky substance.

WD-40 is paraffin in a volatile carrier.

Cleaning the paraffin off the glass might be a challenge.

WD-40 is designed as a water dispersant, as was mentioned above.

Its use as a cleaner (of sorts) comes from the solvent effect of the carrier.

Kroil is certainly the best penetrating oil, but it can be hard to find.
Look in a gun store or online shooting supply place.

- Leigh

Kroil.http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.j...2&q=kano+kroil

Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster are good, too.

I suggest trying Kroil on a test piece before you use it on the lens you like. I've used Kroil on rusty bolts, but never tried to remove it afterwards, as I threw the bolts away. I don't know what you'd use to clean off the Kroil.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh

Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster are good, too.

---

It was probably my "Ancient Voigtlander" thread he read. I did use PB Blaster, but mentioned WD-40 as a comparision because I wasn't sure how many here are familiar with PB. I'll elaborate on how I did it. I made a small cup out of aluminum foil, sprayed the PB into that. I then folded the foil into more of a point to better collect the liquid. Using a needle & syringe, I sucked up the PB, then carefully applied it to the opening of the threaded part. I left the lens standing on an end so it would run down into the threads. Since the threads weren't really corroded so much as they were gummed/stuck, it worked like a charm! After I got the pieces apart I carefully wiped away all the PB. The glass was easy to clean with Windex, then I used a lens cleaning wipe (Zeiss from Walmart, $3/100,) and then dried with a microfiber cloth. No problems found. I was afraid the PB could get into the cemented balsam and dissolve it, but I used so little it didn't make it that far. What I did NOT do is spray the lens down with the little straw attachment and hope for the best.

I'll bring up something else here. I went to my local pharmacy and tried to buy a single syringe. No dice--they wouldn't sell me any! I tried to get one from a local clinic, and they turned me down even though they know me. I tried to buy one from the vetrinarian we take our cat to, and they said they legally couldn't sell me one either. SO, being a farm boy in a regional agricultural center, I went down to my local farm supply store. They had syringes for sale by the each or by the thousand, and a regular buffet of needles! I picked up a couple of fairly fine gauged ones, and a couple of big ones with large diameters. I used the large ones to apply heated hide glue to a tailboard camera I was repairing. The needles give me pin point application! So there you go. Our laws are designed to prevent addicts from getting needles, but addicted cows & horses can get all of them they want. :D (Our government in action.)


Kent in SD

I've used a drop of two of solvent before on lens threads too, but here's the thing to think about: What will that solvent do if it get's on the edge of the cemented pair? Penetrate in, and cause separation would be the worst worry. So use it sparingly. CLP Break-free works wonders too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Two23

I'll bring up something else here. I went to my local pharmacy and tried to buy a single syringe. No dice--they wouldn't sell me any! I tried to get one from a local clinic, and they turned me down even though they know me. I tried to buy one from the vetrinarian we take our cat to, and they said they legally couldn't sell me one either.

---

They WHAT? You are in Zimbabwe, North Korea or some lunatic dictatorship in full denial of the existence of AIDS? I would have thought that in any civilized place syringes and needles would by now be easily obtainable, no questions asked, just in case you are a secret i.v. drug addict.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sevo

They WHAT? You are in Zimbabwe, North Korea or some lunatic dictatorship in full denial of the existence of AIDS? I would have thought that in any civilized place syringes and needles would by now be easily obtainable, no questions asked, just in case you are a secret i.v. drug addict.

---

Needles used to be more available, but our local problem with needles is that drug users were also serious litterbugs. It'd be less fun to step on a needle than a dog poop, and littered needles present an attractive nuisance to walking children.

I used to get allergy shots, so I had a big box of needles. I think they got tossed or given away. Diabetics have plenty of needles too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sevo

They WHAT? You are in Zimbabwe, North Korea or some lunatic dictatorship in full denial of the existence of AIDS? I would have thought that in any civilized place syringes and needles would by now be easily obtainable, no questions asked, just in case you are a secret i.v. drug addict.

---

Any time I've been questioned, I just tell them it's for managing diabetes. No one has ever given me trouble beyond that.
Syringes are great for precision application like this where you want it on the threads but not the lens.

I've only recently got syringes, both with and without needles, for measuring small amounts of chemistry from a local pharmacy in Central Oregon. I simply told them what it was for and had no problems, and no third degree. Try again somewhere, and good luck.

Best,

Doremus

Try using ordinary automotive brake cleaner. It is designed to cut grease (or old lubricant) and evaporate without residue. Will it affect cement at the edges of cemented lenses?...possibly, but it evaporates so quickly, that I do not believe it has time to act on the cement. I sprayed brake cleaner into a plastic film can and applied it to the helical threads of a 100 year old Cooke 13" Soft Focus lens with an eye dropper. The old grease/lubricant dissolved and poured out after multiple treatments and freed the soft focus helical threads. Remove the front and rear elements and flood the threads with the brake cleaner. Repeat multiple times and attempt to turn the threads each time until they break free. Eventually the brake cleaner will pour out clear. I'll use compressed air to blow out the threads, add one or two drops of a silicone lubricant to the threads on opposite sides, and work the threads back and forth to distribute the lubricant. The silicone lubricant carrier will evaporate eventually leaving pure silicone for lubrication. One could also use a Teflon based lubricant. I have seen no degradation of the cement around the periphery of the glass after a year or so. I learned about this approach from others on this forum and it has worked for me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jon Wilson

I was reading a post this morning where a member used WD-40 to soak an old brass lens to free up the stuck brass and then be able to remove the glass. Does WD-40 harm the glass? Does anybody have any experience with this approach to free up old stuck brass lens? I have used the rubber straps etc to free up the glass or brass lens hoods, but have not tried WD-40. Thoughts? Suggestions?

---

WD-40 will attract dirt and grime, so while you may "unstick" it in the short-term, it will gunk up in the long-term, not to mention all the unknown side-effects mentioned above. Alcohol sprayed into crevices with a syringe (buy one of those cheapo inkjet cartridge refill kits to get a big ol' syringe) may help to wash out any gunk. Have the crevice tilted downhill so any gunk drains right out.

My 2 cents!

Any low molecular weight hydrocarbon with low viscosity will penetrate - and evaporate quite quickly afterwards.
Canada balsam has its own light/heavier fractions of hydrocarbon - called turpentine. Straight hydrocarbons are nowhere as agressive solvents as things like zylene and "paint stripper" are.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Steven Tribe

Any low molecular weight hydrocarbon with low viscosity will penetrate - and evaporate quite quickly afterwards.
Canada balsam has its own light/heavier fractions of hydrocarbon - called turpentine. Straight hydrocarbons are nowhere as agressive solvents as things like zylene and "paint stripper" are.

---

So Steve, are you recommending the use of turpentine to loosen "frozen" brass? If you are, that is great for it will allow me to put the alcohol to a better use. :)

I appreciate everyone's posts. Thanks and keep them coming.

Jon

From the smell of Kroil, I suspect it's mostly a light oil, maybe like diesel fuel. I doubt it would do much damage.

Brake cleaner will definitely eat some plastics. Ask me how I know.

The traditional, and best penetrating oil is a mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I definitely do NOT recommend this for lenses!

Kroil can be bought from Kano Labs directly. I usually buy it a case at a time.

Rick "who likes their Microil product for lubing stuff on reassembly, too" Denney

A few more bits of info: any remaining residue from WD-40 can easily be wiped off with xylene, toluene, MEK, acetone. Not a bit deal, but keep these solvents away from plastics; test first with paints.

Syringes in many sizes can be bought from lab supply places like Small Tools. What's nice about these sources is that they sell flat-tipped needles, which are both better for any application other than penetrating the epidermis, and safer to handle also.

Thr MSDS for Kroil says:
Severely Hydrotreated Petroleum Distillates
Light Petroleum Distillates
Aliphatic Alcohols
Glycol Ether
Proprietary Ingredients

So there's lots of good solvent-type stuff in it, plus up to 15% "proprietary ingredients".

- Leigh