Packard shutter #8 with dual pistons - need help on adjusting and clean etc.

I just bought this decent condition. The leafs seem loose while in closed position...am afraid it would leak light.

I did remove the felt and cleaned some rust spots with bit oil (maybe not so good idea) on the back side. Am thinking to unscrew front cover to open this up so I could tighten pivots and clean any rust. Is there any precautions doing this? Are there any risks that pieces from inside might fall apart like fine clock work ? Also, any suggestions on how to keep leafs nice and tight w/o gaps? Large size Packard is hard to find, so don't want mess it up.

Packardshutter dot com guy did not like #8 and offered absolutely no help. Don't know what's wrong with #8 dual piston?! I wish there are more step by step how-to videos about Packard out there. Maybe I will once I know how to do this. Also, am thinking to spray some durable rustoleum enamel paint on the back side to prevent future rusts...is this ok idea?

Thank you ahead!

Take it apart. It won't explode or anything and use steel wool or wire brush to clean up the rust. I don't think the leafs will work good if you shim them tight, because they need to be somewhat loose. Spray painting outside is fine.

Jon

It relies on the free movement of the pistons to open under air pressure and to close due to simple gravity. They must be loose enough for both forms of movement in order to operate accurately and freely. If you tighten them, one or both could drag or seize, both bad results.

By all means, clean up the rust, but be very cautious about tightening the blades.

Packard is still in business, so why not contact them for details of both tightness and instructions?

Posting an image of what a #8 looks like with ruler measurements might allow others to identify a possible other name to this version that Packard shutter guy might know more commonly.

I've only owned one, it seemed pretty simple in design, I also didn't think it was the kind of thing that I would trust to not also use a cap on the lens before taking the image kind of almost TOO simple and sloppy, but functional for what it is.

Good luck!

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Originally Posted by StoneNYC

Posting an image of what a #8 looks like with ruler measurements might allow others to identify a possible other name to this version that Packard shutter guy might know more commonly.

I've only owned one, it seemed pretty simple in design, I also didn't think it was the kind of thing that I would trust to not also use a cap on the lens before taking the image kind of almost TOO simple and sloppy, but functional for what it is.

Good luck!

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Took 2 photos from back to show the gap and leaks against light source. It is #8 with dual piston. 'Reno' didnt care #8 for some reasons to offer any suggestion. Will open it up next. Understand not to make leafs too tight, but need to be tight enough otherwise light leak is a no no.

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2nd pic around 2 o'clock ...thats light from front

I feel like mine might be that loose, haven't actually used it yet.

If the blade of the actual app which are completely planed and flat? Could also be a bent blade?

The belly is opened up for the world to see below. What do you think?
I dont see anything to adjust for leaf tension or anything. I guess it is what is ...expensive 'state-of-art' stamped sheet metal that floats like paper and rusts. That may be the beauty of the whole thing that any one could cut a piece with sheers. Maybe I ought be in business now for this...pre-orders anyone?

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Anyone on how to proceed net to make it light proof ?:confused:

Light travels in a straight line.
When a lens is mounted in front of the shutter, (especially when stopped down), light will be more directional (coming straight in) not sideways past the blades.
I know it seems sloppy , but they actually do work.

I had same thought, but there is thing called stray light. If you want reduced contrast it may be ok. Dont know if large size packard shutters are supposed to be like this. I dont see any causes from wear/tear on this one and it is not bent. Anyone who owns one with hole size >= 4" ...any experience?

4" and bigger, it is NOT uncommon to see slivers of light showing at obtuse angles. In practice, it is almost certainly not any problem at all. I use a 4.5" Shutter ALL THE TIME, and have no trouble, not in the least, even though these slivers of light show at angles. The lens has a more perpendicular view, so unless you've got light sources aimed AT the camera that are brighter than whats on the subject you can relax. (and my film is $200/per shot, Polaroid 20"x24")
Reno (Mr Packard Shutter Co to everybody who doesn't know) no longer services the old #8s, they are LONG discontinued, and his bread and butter is selling new shutters. Reno is a good fellow, but I think the durability of the product is a blessing AND curse for him. I have ordered several new ones from him over the years, and also have a sampling of ancient ones, #5s, #6s, and #8s.

My largest "double pumper" is 8 1/2" square, with a 5" aperture, always worked fine...
However, I haven't tested it by leaving it pointed at the Sun with the darkslide pulled.

How do you tell what "number" they are?

Mine came attached to a board for my Chamonix 8x10 but accepts lenses in Technika boards. Lol, so it's a nifty hack, but not sure what number it is.

5&6 are described on packardshutter.com, 8s have two pistons (and bulbs) 1 for time, 1 for instant.

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Originally Posted by StoneNYC

How do you tell what "number" they are?

Mine came attached to a board for my Chamonix 8x10 but accepts lenses in Technika boards. Lol, so it's a nifty hack, but not sure what number it is.

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Originally Posted by Tracy Storer

5&6 are described on packardshutter.com, 8s have two pistons (and bulbs) 1 for time, 1 for instant.

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Oh! That's the one that has instant! Got it, wish mine were that version. Who knows if I'll even ever use it, can't seem to find the right Petzval and many seem to have a protruding rear so this shutter wouldn't work with that anyway. But this is about the OP I just figured I would ask since it was sort of on topic.

Don't attempt to tighten anything.Also don't use oil. Everything has to be loose and dry to work correctly. Clean the pistons with soft cloth, and the cylinders as well.The pistons should travel freely in the cylinders.
When mounted no light will pass when it is closed.

Cool, it's good to know that others have no issues with the way it is. So I will put it back now after cleaning bit rust and nothing else. I assume I just hook the 2 pins into the pistons and be back in business?! Btw, the pins are really loose. Before I deplete my very limited $ from PS site on the tubing and bulb, any known big box store items that I can use to make my own ? I hope to post few photos once I complete mounting mod to a large lens.

ps. I did talk to Reno for 1 min and confirm that he does not like #8 at all. From known pictures and very quick look, I dont see real diff from #6 other than it has 2 pistons.

$200 a shot...emm...when you want pass along ur surplus let me know.