Anyone Know the Type of Black Paint Used on Modern Omega 4x5 Negative Carriers?

Hi, guys anyone out there familiar with the type of black paint used on the top coat of modern Omega negative carrier for 4x5 enlargers? (ie, flat back, ultra flat black, satin, etc .) I assume it's an oil based enamel (vs water based acrylic). Correct?

(Background: I just bought an OLD custom-sized, unpainted aluminum Simmon Omega negative carrier because the cutout opening is a few millimeters smaller than the actual image area of the negative. I want this feature because of the artifact this produces on the printed image edges.

However I do not like the black border that a highly reflective negative carrier surface such as unpainted aluminum would create, so I wish to professionally paint my negative carrier's aluminum surface with the appropriate type of black paint to block light reflections creating a black border. I originally thought to go with an ultra flat black top coat and call it a day, but am concerned ultra flat black would prove to be abrasive and scratch the silver side of the negative during handling or would not wear well). Looking at my own 4x5 omega carriers the paint seems like some type of non reflective style at the very least and not glossy.

My goal is to paint it with the least reflective black enamel paint that is also durable safe for the surface of the negative during normal handling. Or simply default to the exact type of paint Omega used in their modern carriers.

(As I understand it, I would need to first paint a bottom layer directly of self etching primer before applying the black top coat.).

Any input appreciated.


Thanks

Andre

I would assume they are anodized -- which is an electrolytic process, not paint -- but in your situation, I'd use matte black enamel. You might want to consider using a coat of some aluminum primer first -- Rustoleum -- to make it stick better.

https://youtu.be/MMdb0nhTE4A?si=2Rlir9GpbvYLD7VI

Hello, thanks for your input.

My lone Saunders negative carrier is definitely are anodized.
My Omega carriers look like a really nice paint job. (not 100% sure though).
These are really nice pieces of gear. I have been away from this hobby about 7 years.
Looking at my darkroom gear I realize we came from a good era. ��

Thanks for the link. I watched the video. That guy has a really advanced shop. My shop is at the very beginning stages - not there yet. :o

All my Omega D5500 carriers are anodized. I do recall seeing some Omega carriers painted white (on the top) and black on the bottom. I'd go glossy as it might be easier to keep clean.

You can see how the black paint has chipped on the edges so this one is not anodized.

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I'll second the suggestion for a good spray aluminum primer followed by a good-quality flat-black spray paint. I've done that with several negative carriers and have never had a scratching problem. (The negative image area is in the hole anyway...). Easier to do than anodizing and easily repairable if needed.

For a down-and-dirty solution to reflections from the edges, though, I've been known to pull out the black Sharpie...

Best,

Doremus

Hey ic-racer I have the Pro Lab D5500 enlarger too. Nice enlarger though somehow one of the internal rubber rollers rotted away years ago. I converted it into a "cold light head" with some flashed diffuse opal glass and a computer fan because had to use 150W and 250W bulbs. :o
The single piece negative stage on mine is definitely anodized but all my 8 or so omega carriers look professionally painted to my eye.

Thanks Doremus. Sounds like a plan.

Andre

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Doremus Scudder

... (The negative image area is in the hole anyway...)

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I decide to practice on an existing negative carrier in which the hole was worn down to the aluminum (from carrying the carrier around with aa finger).
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Spray the outsides of neg carrier with Rustoleum "Chalk Board" flat black spray paint (from your home or hardware store)... It is a tough paint, flat black, resists wear well and cheap/easy to use...

Don't paint the insides where the film sits, as most paints are slightly abrasive when dry, and can rub your negs the wrong way (slightly abrasive)... Put some masking tape on inside under the film cut-out gate and rest of inside, and allow a couple of days dry time before use...

Steve K

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andre Noble

Hey ic-racer I have the Pro Lab D5500 enlarger too. Nice enlarger though somehow one of the internal rubber rollers rotted away years ago. I converted it into a "cold light head" with some flashed diffuse opal glass and a computer fan because had to use 150W and 250W bulbs. :o
The single piece negative stage on mine is definitely anodized but all my 8 or so omega carriers look professionally painted to my eye.

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You know there were two different negative carrier systems for that enlarger. If you have the lift arm then all the D5 carriers fit. The other way is to have the head down all the time and use the cassette system of the D5500. Those carriers are different. In the end they all work the same, though.
I will say I use Glass 98% of the time in all my enlargers. I converted all my enlargers to glass carriers when I got my 10x10 Durst. It only can be used with a glass carrier (due to a powerful fan blowing on the carrier to keep it cool).

Probably does not matter how you address coloring the carrier. Even though I posted that DIY, I'd consider a professional anodizing. Otherwise probably any paint will do. If it chips at the edges, just touch it up with a brush.

I did this 'temporary repair' with some o-rings and rubber feet I found at the local hardware store almost 25 years ago on my two d5500 chassis. The repair is still holding up! They both move up and down nice and smooth.
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Thanks very much for the photo of the rollers. Now I know what it looks like back there and that it's a known issue (and not due to the NYC to LA UPS shipping as my original box came all mangled in 1997). I saved your post and photos on my computer for future reference. Hard to believe my Pro Lab II D5500 is 27 years old. I dont use it as much because I bought a new Sanunders LPL on liquidation before Bel Air camera in Westwood closed. But the D5500 is great to use with graded filters. Here are photos showing how I was able to convert my to a diffuse head using flash diffuse opal from a glass store. I had to offset the sheet of opal from the last condenser lease to prevent newton rings, otherwise went great. With the added heat of higher watt bulb, you will get popping of negative in glassless carrier.
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by LabRat

Spray the outsides of neg carrier with Rustoleum "Chalk Board" flat black spray paint (from your home or hardware store)... It is a tough paint, flat black, resists wear well and cheap/easy to use...

Don't paint the insides where the film sits, as most paints are slightly abrasive when dry, and can rub your negs the wrong way (slightly abrasive)... Put some masking tape on inside under the film cut-out gate and rest of inside, and allow a couple of days dry time before use...

Steve K

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Hey Steve, that's a brilliant idea! Absolutely brilliant.

In addition to assuring a smooth surface across which both sides of the negative can safely touch - it leaves the 2 interior surfaces of the sandwich unpainted, keep the beautiful original aluminum surface intact.

Meanwhile painting the 2 exterior surfaces of the sandwich flat black minimizes extraneous light.

Thanks again for the great idea :o

Spray paint might be OK for DIY purposes if you choose the right type. But that wouldn't have been suitable for original manufacturing needs or its kind of durability. They would have used a baked enamel, and thereafter, black anodizing. For little nicks and exposed edges, Sharpie pens are a wonder.