Hi JMoore,
Nice results, what speed did you rate this film?
Cheers,
Renato
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Hi JMoore,
Nice results, what speed did you rate this film?
Cheers,
Renato
JMoore, for a first attempt that is absolutely fantastic! Leaves very little room for improvement, if any. And I have the same question as Renato.
Thanks everyone and sorry I forgot to add that info when I posted. Rated @ 100 ISOQuote:
Originally Posted by koraks
Great, thank you!
Cheers,
Renato
Here's another one, same settings as the first one I posted.
Attachment 137207
Again, great pic! You'll have to start planning the exhibition at this rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by JMoore
Thank you Andrew, I appreciate your comments.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
Beautiful lighting, JMoore.Quote:
Originally Posted by JMoore
I love these "xray type" shots!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Dudenbostel
Do you own an X-Ray machine?Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Dudenbostel
Wow! Unique...shame we can't all have an xray machine handy, need to get pally with airport security!Quote:
Originally Posted by stradibarrius
Hi !
Well this is my first x-ray result and first "for real" trial with 8x10 (had exposed and developed some sheets found already loaded in film holders I got) : Kodak 2D 8x10, Ektascan BRA, Fujinon SF 250mm at around f16, +- 1/8 sec IIRC; Blazinal 1:40 7 minutes in tray with no agitation except first 15 seconds and last 30 seconds. Weak stop. Scanned on V700 with still minimal technique. Extensive basic adjustments in LR.
Attachment 137763
And here is another one, same location
Ektascan BRA rated at 80, APO RONAR 300mm or maybe ILEX PARAGON 13", 2 seconds exposure at +- f64, same development and scanning parameters as above (not cropped though). Attachment 137764
Pierre (who hopes to be posting some more Ektascan pictures soon)
And a last one for now - same parameter range as the one above :Attachment 137765
They look good. Are you pleased? I love the xray film look, myself.
I really like all three Pierre, well done!
Thanks Michael AND JMoore !
I am indeed pleased, and surprised to have been able to get the clouds out from the highlights. Got news from my subjects who received the contact prints today : They are pleased as well :-)
Very happy with this film which I am sure will satisfy my foreseable 8x10 needs (also got some green and blue Fuji that I will eventually try on 5x7 although that would no longer respond to an actual need : Happy with the 8x10 2D. Now, if ever someone has a Rittreck with 5x7 back to trade for a very nice Mamiya 645 kit... (will eventually post in the appropriate section)
Pierre
After using half speed blue and getting mediocre results I changed to Agfa green and the results improved. I read an article about stopping down to get the shadow detail from the zone 5 results the meter is calibrated for, back to zone 3..ish. This gave me really good results when using the negatives for albumen printing. Now to get constant results during printing I would like to be able to refer back to the density of the negative. I don't have a density meter, can I use one of the two colour analyzers I have picked up along the way to get a density reading???
I also got much better results when I ran out of Fuji HRT (green) and started using Agfa Green. It seems to like compensating development more than HRT, and also doesn't scratch as easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
I recently shot a sheet of Fuji blue and green, same subject, ISO, and development. The blue was much more contrasty, lacking even minimal shadow detail when compared to what the green recorded...but I have to try the Agfa. I just got a box of Kodak green I have yet to try.
8x10 Kodak CSG, no stripping. R09 1:125, 12m rotary.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/514/2...718352b4_c.jpg2015-07-30-0004www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Looks great, Sergei! You don't get any scratches on the side of the negative that sits against the drum?
I read much into this image.Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
Sincerely, Randy Moe
thanks. I have couple of drums i use in processing those, one of them (Unidrum) might get scratches every now and then, if you not careful taking film out, but its easy to overcome with properly wetted glove), other one - Jobo with insert - it doesn't touch sides at all, so no scratches period.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter J. De Smidt
Thanks, Randy. I have meant to shoot this bit for like 2 weeks, and finally got around to do it. Might make few more collodion plates of this theme, if i get restless.. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Regarding the Jobo drum, what's the insert? I use expert drums, and I get a few scratches on the side next to the drum, probably when the film is removed from the drum. I've considered making an insert of heavy weight window screen. The "pet proof" kind is thick but flexible. The idea would be for the screen to rub against the drum when the negative and screen are removed.
Do it, Art work is soul and spirit.Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
I am with you. Always.
Chamonix 45F1
Fujinon W 210mm
1/2 Second @ f/5.6
AGFA Green Sensitive X-ray film
Hanger Development for 8 Minutes - Rodinal 1:200
Scan of Negative
Attachment 137964
Nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by JMoore
Renato
Nice also !
1:200 for 8 minutes. Hum... So that I may have more food for thought, what sensitivity were you assuming for the film ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMoore
Thank you Renato & Pierre. After a few tests I decided on ISO 100.
Not sure why I exposed this at 400 instead of 100 like I usually do, anyway shot with an 8x10 pinhole camera, f288, Kodak green xray film
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/371/2...4ba16d3152.jpgold cabin in the woods by john golden, on Flickr
The film areas of Expert drums are not cylinders - they are barrel shaped, thus the film does not touch the sides during processing. You must be getting the scratches during loading or unloading. You might try loading and unloading with the drum full of water.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter J. De Smidt
Thanks, man. Will do tomorrow - last week collodion was too flat - has to age it a bitQuote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Kodak CSG, 8x10, Rodinal 1:125 in rotary, 12m
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/363/2...6684594e_o.jpgSvetlana by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Wow!Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
Sergi, that's really cool. One of your better ones, I think.
When removing 8x10 film from a Unidrum I fill it with water. That equalizes any surface tension and the film easily slides out.Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
Great portrait. Has that 1930's movie star look. Love the lighting.
Thanks :) octabox on the left, bare bulb with cone on the right. (well reversed ;))Quote:
Originally Posted by premortho
Awesome shot Sergei, may I ask what lens? OOF is silky smooth. Oh! to oneday have such talent!Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
Sergie - your work is really inspiring. Beautiful portrait.
Pali
Hello all. Started doing xray myself. Got this photo. And my question is: underexposed or underdeveloped (a little bit)?
Attachment 138300
Welcome to the forum (I am new myself and also shooting x-ray film).
Even though I understand your question to be a difficult one to answer, some competent people here may be more in a position to help you if you would define following parameters :
How did you read the light ?, what reading did you get ? what setting did you use ? what setting was your shutter really operating at ?
What kind of film ? what sensitivity ? what sensitivity did you use ? why ?
What kind of developper did you use ? how old ? what concentration ? what development method did you use ? for how long ? at what temperature ? what agitation ?
What are we looking at ? What scanning parameters (if any) did you use (scanning with parameters adjustment will still allow interesting results with really thin negatives).
You will find through the forum that this question has been asked previously and that a general answer is to keep on trying while taking notes and doing comparisons...
Looking forward to your upcoming results
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre 2
I used Agfa Ortho CP-GU as ISO100. Exposed at f11 with 4 sec shutter. Developed in stock D-76 in tray for 5.5 min. Scanned with no adjustments.
I like this image, its a bit underexposed but still looks nice to me, next time try exposing at 80 that will give you another 2 sec and bring your leaves up a bit and your flowers but not to the point of blowing out.:)
Sergie rocks the portraits!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Pali K
Under-exposedQuote:
Originally Posted by SuXarik
You can tell whether your negs are underexposed by looking at the shadow detail in the negative. If your shadow areas are clear on the film then you didn't give them enough light to make an impression. When your negs are in the developer, the silver gets progressively dense as the exposed silver develops out. There is much less exposed silver in the shadows because there is less light in the shadows. All of the exposed silver in the shadows gets completely developed in the first couple of minutes because there is so little of it. The rest of the time that the negs are in the developer the exposed silver in the mid tones and highlights are being developed. More time in the developer expands the contrast range as the silver continues to develop. You can tell whether you've overdeveloped the negs by looking to see if the highlights are blocked up. If the highlights are blocked up, give your negs less time in the developer. Less time in the developer won't affect the shadows because the shadows have already completely developed out. Time in the developer determines contrast. More time = more contrast.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuXarik
Thank you, Andrew, thats very kind of you to say.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
Its #4 Vitax at about f8, if i remember right f-stop.
thank you :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pali K
Hehe :) thanks. I tend to prefer portraiture work to anything else, indeed. Albeit my wife tends to tell me that i pay too much attention to light and not to people, when I am shooting.Quote:
Originally Posted by ImSoNegative