Picking up a De Vere 5108

Not sure if this is what you're looking for, maybe it will help. If you're in the US/Canada, you may want to call KHB Photografix in Canada. They're extremely helpful. May also help if you post a photo of the enlarger so we know which flavor 5108 we're talking about. Good Luck. L

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So,I survived my trip from Florida to Detroit to pick up my 5108, I'm sure I way over paid for this set up but, it definitely needed a good home. it had been living in a garage for what looks like quite a while. I spent about a week cleaning the caked on dust and dirt off of her, arghh.
i have the manual, but still not completely confident about the operation. I'm assuming that i don't connect the color control unit since i will be using this for 8x10 b&w. i have the universal timer connected instead, it looks like a choice of one or the other. both seem to be functioning properly.

i have two mixing boxes that came with it. one has about a 4x5 frosted glass and the other one looks to be about 8x10, things were pretty dim until I put that in!

i have 3 lenses with the kit, a 300mm Rodagon 5.6, a 150mm componon 5.6 and an 80mm Rodagon 5.6. I'm assuming the 80 won't be useful for 8x10? The 300 is a beast but the glass looks kind of tired.
Also in the kit is a Heiland split grade system and a laser leveling tool, worked quite well.

Any thoughts on the split grade system?

I have everything leveled and clean, now time to round up more trays.

Congratulations on your De Vere! I have a 504.

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Originally Posted by No Ah

I have hauled my 5108 through three moves, not counting the original hop three states over to buy it.

I have one problem - I don't remember how the cables were strung through the head of the mast. There are four pulleys (wheels) - and two cables, two counterweights (I know where they go) and both ends of the cables are attached (one to the bench, the other to the upper frame on the head).

The pulleys are what are throwing me off.

I'm assuming they have to wrap around or (*?*) the two spindles that raise/lower the head & bench...

Does anyone have a De Vere 5108 that has these lead counter weights - and would be so kind as to photograph how the cabling is run through the mast head and down to the front of the mast?

Thanks for the help!

By the way... I first bought the enlarger in 2011. Am setting it up for the first time, three moves, and seven years later (I was waiting to live in a house that had enough head room to allow me to stand the darn thing UP!).

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Mine has chains that raise and lower the light box and the lens stage, they are accessible from the back if you remove the rectangular panels. There is a set on both sides. If this is what you are referring to, I took some crude cel phone shots before I moved mine, I heard it was a bitch if they fell off in transport. Fortunately mine didn’t fall off. PM me if this is what you need with your email address and I will send them to you. I hope it works out for you.

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Originally Posted by John Brady

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So,I survived my trip from Florida to Detroit to pick up my 5108, I'm sure I way over paid for this set up but, it definitely needed a good home. it had been living in a garage for what looks like quite a while. I spent about a week cleaning the caked on dust and dirt off of her, arghh.
i have the manual, but still not completely confident about the operation. I'm assuming that i don't connect the color control unit since i will be using this for 8x10 b&w. i have the universal timer connected instead, it looks like a choice of one or the other. both seem to be functioning properly.

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If you can find a 240 mm lens, it will cover 8x10 instead of the 300 and the head will be lower for the same magnification ratio, thus will give you more light, or you can enlarge more with it. The 80 is only good for Medium format and 35 mm, the 150 for 4x5 & the 300 for 8x10 & 5x7. You should be able to find a 240 for under $200 and could then sell the 300 if you don't use it. Try to find either a 180 or 210 (or both). I use the 180 for 5x7 and the 210 for 8x10 with small magnifications.

Have no experience with the Heiland split grade unit, have never used one. I don't usually spit grade print, so not my forte. Also, no experience with the color control box, though you can use the enlarger stricklty on a manual setting. L

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Originally Posted by Luis-F-S

If you can find a 240 mm lens, it will cover 8x10 instead of the 300 and the head will be lower for the same magnification ratio, thus will give you more light, or you can enlarge more with it. The 80 is only good for Medium format and 35 mm, the 150 for 4x5 & the 300 for 8x10 & 5x7. You should be able to find a 240 for under $200 and could then sell the 300 if you don't use it. Try to find either a 180 or 210 (or both). I use the 180 for 5x7 and the 210 for 8x10 with small magnifications.

Have no experience with the Heiland split grade unit, have never used one. I don't usually spit grade print, so not my forte. Also, no experience with the color control box, though you can use the enlarger stricklty on a manual setting. L

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Thanks Luis, I have already started my search for a nice quality 240, I played with the 300 and wasn’t thrilled.
I think the split grade unit is to help you establish a starting point for exposure, but not really sure?

What I did was to use Paul Butzi's method for getting constant exposures at various contrast settings using the color head. I recommend that. Also, if you find that you have low maximum contrast, getting new magenta filters might help. I got over a full contrast grade boost by changing mine.

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head will be lower for the same magnification ratio, thus will give you more light

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Violates thermodynamic laws of conservation of matter and energy. In fact, average baseboard lumens will likely be less with a short lens due to increased loss from cosine falloff at edges of field.

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Originally Posted by ic-racer

Violates thermodynamic laws of conservation of matter and energy. In fact, average baseboard lumens will likely be less with a short lens due to increased loss from cosine falloff at edges of field.

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If you use a shorter lens, the head will be closer to the baseboard, so the light spread will be less resulting in more light per square area for the same magnification. Do I have that wrong? I'll measure this evening on the enlarger.

Also if the ELH bulbs are too bright you can use ENH bulbs instead-250 vs 300 watts and 175 hours vs 35 hrs to failure. What I use.