In regards to D-23, it works fine. Try diluting it 1+1 to 1+3.
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In regards to D-23, it works fine. Try diluting it 1+1 to 1+3.
Thanks. I didn't want to go the Rodinal route because it would only be any good to me for the 8x10 XRay film. For all the other film I shoot, it's just too grainy. I was turned off of Rodinal in 1974 and never touched it again. D-23 has much more versatile usability.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
You should find that the xray negative won't be nearly as grainy as Rodinal, due to its high sodium sulfite content. I have also tried two-bath D-23 with sucess. Will you be wet printing on silver papers?
Yes--ordinary photographic paper and Dektol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Interesting idea. Do I understand this correctly?Quote:
Originally Posted by gavjenks
- expose the film
- normal develop the film
- afterwards strip the back side of the negative with bleach?
Doesn't it affect the emulsion on the good side, or is it just a matter of carefully bleaching? How do you do this?
Thanks,
Bert from Holland
http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
I think it is described in this thread a few times, but yes, you strip it after processing is all completed (because that's when the other emulsion is most hardened and resilient).Quote:
Originally Posted by TheToadMen
All i do is lay a piece of glass in my sink so it is diagonal. Then splash some water on the surface, slap the film good-side-down, rub it around a little bit to free air bubbles (if your glass is clean, this won't scratch it at all), and push and sweep with my fingertips to also release air bubbles, leading to a decent seal. This water seal alone is sufficient to keep bleach off of the good side if you're careful.
Then I use a common cleaning sponge (soft side) with some bleach squirted on the edge full strength. I hold one corner of the negative with my left hand and sweep middle to edge on the opposite corner and then pick up the sponge and return to middle again (so you're never pushing from outside in, which could push bleach under the lip). Repeat 20 swipes, then hold another corner and sweep the opposite of that 20 times, for all 4 corners. You can see the emulsion being removed, so if 20 sweeps doesn't do it then keep going till it's gone.
Avoid moving the negative around on the glass, because it can glide into and over an area with bleach on it. that's why you want a firm hold on the corner opposite your sweeping direction, so you don't shift the film unnecessarily. i also always sweep the bottom corners first, to minimize the time that bleach is at the top of the glass and is thus being potentially pulled under the film by gravity etc.
Drop sponge in the sink and immediately flush hands and film and the entire glass sheet with copious amounts of water (few seconds of faucet running and splashing it around). Then pry up one corner of the film with fingernails, flip it over and flush directly in the faucet in case any bleach got behind at all.
Now rinse in distilled water or dip in photo flo or whatever you normally would do, and hang to dry.
If you're in a confined space with a less-than-stellar fan, like an old bathroom, i suggest opening the door before doing this. Bleach fumes can be strong, and at this point, the film is developed already, so light doesn't matter.
After a few sheets of practice, I quickly got to the point where I have a nearly 100% success rate in not accidentally bleaching any portion of the good emulsion side whatsoever.
Please note that this is probably terrible for the environment. Ideally, you should be collecting your silvery-infused bleach liquid in a container somewhere, for electrolysis at some point to reclaim the silver metal (tiny bit of $$ but also stopping it from polluting. Same with used fixer)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter J. De Smidt
Just a question, I'm new to the large format x-ray film thing. I'm shooting with a 8x10. I just purchased a yellow 4in x 4in filter. You mentioned a yellow green filter. Is this a combination, or a yellow and green filter together? Thanks,
The Seattle guy...R.W.Delung
Its a single filter, at least in my case. I am sure you can get it done as two, it just probably will end up eating more light.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdelung
Btw, if you dont mind me asking - where, and how much it was? :) (i am looking for one)
Thank you for your patience and the explanation (I haven't read all the 688 posts in this thread yet).Quote:
Originally Posted by gavjenks
I was thinking about getting me some Fuji X-ray film since it is cheap and available in 18x24 cm format, but I wondered how to handle double coated film.
Now I know :)
I think I will try this for 5X7 and Whole Plate. I got an Orbital processor and motor for free and they look like they have not been used although a corner of the box is bent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkillmer
I will try my first go at developing X-ray film this week in the Combi tank for my 4X5 s I shot last weekend.
I'm going to go in another direction on my developer trials. After a lot of study and pondering, I'm going to see what I can get out of Willi Beutler's developer.
Which film will you be trying out?
We have a couple boxes of Fuji HR-T one 8X10 and one 14X17 which will be used for cutting down to 5X7 and WP, except my wife figures one of her cameras will take a full sheet of the larger size. She has a pinhole camera made from an IAMS cat food tin and if that is not big enough we have several of the larger size dog food cannisters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
We are going to try to perfect a system this fall and winter as the plans are for three weeks on Vancouver Island next June.
Hi there SergeiR: The mount that I have will only take a Ambico 3 x 3.25 in. Its a Yellow K2 new filter. I found this on ebay, and it was the only one, so I grabbed it up. It was $11.98 total. Now I just have to make up an adepter that can hold the mount to my large lens barrel. I looked at the rubber band thing, and it doesn't talk to me. So I came up with an idea of cutting out a piece of high density foam about 1.5 in.
thick, and mounting it to the filter mount back. The trick will be to make the hole just snug enough to grab to the lens barrel. I think it should
work. The entire thing doesn't weigh very much. I'll keep you informed if you like. BTW, I know that Novosibirsk is in Russia, but do you live in
Dallas Texas? A Russian co-worker of mine wanted me to ask. Thanks, Randy DeLung ( the other Randy ) aka The Seattle guy.
Aha :) thanks. Thought it was fleabay but hope springs eternal :) you can also buy Cokin Z holder or cheap Lee holder knockoff, and just glue one of adapter rings onto lens :) i mean yeah it will butcher lens, but it will save you from rubber-banding it ( or you can make wooden cutout with felt and pull on blah.. )
I do live in dallas, tx, but i am from nsk and go there every few months :)
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2860/9...1d9efac9_z.jpg
HuntingCreek by kmccmack, on Flickr
Hunting Creek in the Cunningham Falls park.
Salt print on water color paper. Untoned. Sodium Chloride with a gelatin sizer. Kodak B/RA Film metered for 12ISO developed in RO9 1:50, rotary processed 8min at 72ºF.
I never seem to be able to get a decent scan of my salt prints.
My daughter, dressed as Mexican painter, Frida Kahlo...
Attachment 101880
Fuji HRT (green sensitive) under studio strobes
Wonderful portrait, great mood!
From the same sitting:
Attachment 101902
Exposed for ISO 100 and developed in paRodinal (home made Rodinal) for 4 minutes in a rotary tank.
Here's an example of a paper negative and an X-Ray negative.
Same setup and lighting...
Paper Negative (ISO 3)
Attachment 101934
X-Ray Negative (ISO 100)
Attachment 101935
Not much between them, IMHO. The paper has a slightly different response curve, doesn't show the shadow detail as well as the X-Ray, but the paper is somehow more... mellow.
I'm not sure if this post belongs here, but this is for free stainless steel tanks and x-ray film holders for 10"x12" film developing.
They were used by the local veterinarian here in central Idaho. Would prefer pick-up if you just happen to be coming through Challis, Idaho.
That's a nice offer. Tanks are hard to find.
I have some and am too far away, but I wonder if the Vet got new ones or went Digital?
Do you know the situation?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thad Gerheim
The Vet went digital, which makes me wonder if there are a lot of these sitting in storage units from Veterinarians and Dentists.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Kodak CGS , exposed for 150 ISO (to prove me theory about UV rich sources), development 7.30 1+100 R09, rotary
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3724/9...c7105bc9_c.jpg
Scan-130921-0002www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
and the answer is? :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
ah. Sorry. Yes. Paper neg do same - you roughly x1.5-x2 base ISO rating to get same negative as if you working with flashes or indirect shade (think balcony or patio with serious overhang.. so it pick up reflected light + got extra shade)Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7422/9...26911ecf_b.jpg
P9187113 by -88-, on Flickr
Kodak T-Mat
Hi,
I have been watching this Thread for a while. I am finishing a basement darkroom and planning to get into large format, mostly 4x5 and a little 8x10. I have a general question about the use of xray film: Is there a summary page for all the great discussion which has happened in this forum? I am only aware of another forum on xray film here, the one on Images taken with xray film. Also, are there more forum on the subject of xray film?
Many years ago (almost 30 now!) I was shooting Kodak Technical Pan at 25ASA and processed in Technidol Liquid. The incredible rendition of continuous tone of the Tech Pan makes me want to try again with large format, but, the film is essentially unavailable now. I was wondering what experience people have with rendering continuous tone with xray film and if what suggestions people might have, type of film ("blue" vs. "green"), exposure, type of developer, etc. As you can see, I have not read through most of the posts here but I am slowly catching up!
Thanks in advance,
Mario
Yeah, I picked up a 14x17" hangers + vertical tanks setup from a local Vet the past year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thad Gerheim
http://u1.ipernity.com/36/06/79/2612...fe9f6a.640.jpg
http://www.ipernity.com/home/holdenrichards/
1903 Eastman View No. 1 - Agfa Repromaster 185mm - f/45
Kodak X-Ray - 8x10 Film
Dektol 1+10 - Unaltered Negative Scan
Hello guys! I haven't finished reading this thread about X-ray film but i'm sure it's worth the read.
By the way, i have some questions. I just shoot my first test shots on my 8x10 camera using X-ray film. I just found some of the images has some leaks that i'm still unsure where it came from. The main culprit could be the red light that we used in the darkroom. Is this film really senstive that even a DIY redlight could fog the film? I have real safe life in Iran that i could use when i get there. I'll make some more tests again this week..
We used sa DIY ala Kinoflo continuos light, 8x10 with 250mm lens for the test shoot. I've developed the film with parodinal 1+100, a stopbath and a fixer that we usually use for normal film. Is stopbath really necessary for xray film? I've shoot the film at EI 50 and it's a bit overexposed and not contrasty. So next time i'll try to use EI100 with the same chemistry setup. The film is very sensitive with scratches but i'm starting to like the process and the character of this film. I think i'll just use this film until i finish the box i have and see if i would continue using it. :)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...33087876_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...06156383_n.jpg
8X0 Kodak Master View, 250mm Fujinon 6.7, Fuji HRT Green, Handcolored in photoshop.
Try to use hardening fixer. Helps with emulsion a bit, imho
as of red light.. i dont use light when loading/processing my X-ray, and i cant say for fuji. But on few occasions i did this with Kodak CSG under my red light made out of led and red gel - i didnt have any issues. Your leaks seems to come more from sides and kind of form vignette. Simpe thing to do is to try to cover camera with dark cloth when/while you exposing file. Also i suggest checking lens board & etc. This is exact effect that you would have when looking on the image through lens and there is parasitic light coming from all sides - center of image is pronounced and rest is kinda fades out.
Thank you Sergie!!! I think i have to check on my DIY lensboard as well! Forgot about that!!
About the hardening fixer. I had scratches while processing the film because this is my first time. I had problem with the trays found out it has some spikes there. Hopefully next test would be much cleaner than this one.. :) But the scratches, leaks and dusts gave this portrait a different look. I will keep on reading here and post my journey with 8x10 and x-ray film! Man, i love the images posted here by you and others here! Very inspiring!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
If you need to tape things, try to get and use Gaff tape.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaffer_tape
I want to murder our ancestors that used masking tape on cameras and I can't get it off!
I have to buy another roll of gaff! Thanks for reminding me Randy!
typical timetravelling rookie mistake :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
If you went and killed them then you wouldnt ever be born and thus wouldnt go and kill them.. and... :)))))
:(
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
I want to murder our ancestors that used masking tape on cameras and I can't get it off!
Another possitly useful factoid: smear the tape with GoJo or similar mechanic's hand cleaner, wait a few hours, and then remove the tape and residue. This worked on some barndoors that had tape residue baked onto to them from years past.
I'll try it. very old masking tape is everywhere.
One guy used white, medical looking tape to label many leather things, it takes the leather skin right with it.
I like good tape, I got some 3M 924 ATG Transfer tape today, I may tape a DIY camera together with it. Testing it tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold_4074
Attachment 103027
CEA GREEN X-RAY FILM DIY 4x5 CAMERA CAFFENOL
cloth based? Bandaid-like but in loooong rolls.. Loved this stuff as a kid - hate as adult.. Not a lot could be done to clean this bastard off the leather, afaik :( sorry, man. That glue is very good .Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Attachment 103119Attachment 103120Attachment 103121
Sergei, As per our talk earlier, I have made a foam attachment for my filter holder. Its just high density foam with a thin wood backing.
It seems to work OK. The only trick is to make the foam hole just smaller than the barrel of the lens. Very cheep, and usable. I hope
this helps someone else out, as it did me. The West Coast Guy. RWDelung
Clever. I like it!Quote:
Originally Posted by rdelung
Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co
Very clever!Quote:
Originally Posted by rdelung
Hi All,
I don't know where else to ask this...
The only recent x-ray emulsion I have shot with is fuji HRT (green). I've just emptied the box so I'm looking at getting some more film. Specifically, I'm buying some IBF low contrast green film. There are so many different types around!
Has anyone compared he different manufactures/types of film? There's agfa, kodak, fuji, ibf and many many more manufacturers.
Interested in hearing comparisons.
Mark
Also interested in seeing examples!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkillmer
Here is my example of IBF-Medix RX-G.
My comparative observations are:
-Very similar to Fuji HRT - Slightly slower? Maybe ISO 80
-Same development Chemicals/process as Fuji HRT - in this case raRodinal 1+50 for 4 minutes
-Emulsion is softer than Fuji HRT
-This is my first image but:
-Seems grainer than HRT
-Lots of scanner artefacts
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/1...6017fd71_c.jpg
This is nice. I've shoot my first 8x10 with Fuji HRT @ iso50. It was a bit overexposed.. 6-7 minutes development using paRodinal 1+100. I think i should adjust my ISO and keep on using the dillution. Anyone tried 1+100 using paRodinal? Thank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkillmer