Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
paulbarden
Attachment 201184
I've been down with a cold for the past week, so I haven't exactly been enthusiastic to get out the Collodion and make plates (*cough*), but yesterday I could not resist!
This is my first plate made with a new (to me) 300mm Darlot lens. This is an 8x10 inch glass negative made using Quinn's Collodion recipe for negatives. It was a bright afternoon and the UV was streaming in, so it was a very fast exposure for a negative: 10 seconds. The Darlot has no cut for Waterhouse stops, so this is wide open (approximately f4). I question whether or not this is really a Petzval lens (where's the edge swirl??) but I like its rendering A LOT anyway. I have to check to see if the rear group is assembled properly.
A beautiful image. Usually to get edge swirl there has to be stuff like tree branches out beyond the focused plain. Things roughly in or near the plane of focus don't swirl much.
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
paulbarden
Attachment 201184
I question whether or not this is really a Petzval lens (where's the edge swirl??) but I like its rendering A LOT anyway. I have to check to see if the rear group is assembled properly.
There used to be an article by Alex Timmerman on the internets somewhere in which he demonstrated that the exaggerated swirl you sometimes see in images made with a Petzval is the result of an incorrectly assembled lens. A properly assembled one won't have as much swirl. Would post a link but I can't find it.
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
The center of the image circle on a Petzval lens is pretty darn sharp. They were meant to be. The swirl that so many like comes from using a lens designed for a smaller format than that being used. Though, for example, a 5x7 lens will illuminate an 8x10 ground glass, the area outside of the 5x7 frame will fall apart. At least this was how it was explained to me, and it makes sense. Personally, the swirl makes me slightly nauseous, but clearly I am in the minority
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...228d5775_o.jpg
Echeveria by Pau Martín, on Flickr
My first successful plate. It is a 8x10 tintype, shot with a convertible Symmar 300 at 5.6.
Q.J. collodion with modified Osterman developer. My previous attempts suffered from a heavy fog,
which I attributed to a too active developer. I changed the amount of acetic acid from 4% to 6%.
Fixed with Ilford rapid fixer. Sandarac varnish.
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
Bravo!
I really Like!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
pau3
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...228d5775_o.jpg
Echeveria by
Pau Martín, on Flickr
My first successful plate. It is a 8x10 tintype, shot with a convertible Symmar 300 at 5.6.
Q.J. collodion with modified Osterman developer. My previous attempts suffered from a heavy fog,
which I attributed to a too active developer. I changed the amount of acetic acid from 4% to 6%.
Fixed with Ilford rapid fixer. Sandarac varnish.
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Tin Can
Bravo!
I really Like!
Thanks a lot!
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
pau3
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...228d5775_o.jpg
Echeveria by
Pau Martín, on Flickr
My first successful plate. It is a 8x10 tintype, shot with a convertible Symmar 300 at 5.6.
Q.J. collodion with modified Osterman developer. My previous attempts suffered from a heavy fog,
which I attributed to a too active developer. I changed the amount of acetic acid from 4% to 6%.
Fixed with Ilford rapid fixer. Sandarac varnish.
Outstanding first plate, Pau! It has a very well-defined atmosphere about it, and the tonal values are tactile and thoughtfully rendered. You should be very pleased with this work. I look forward to seeing more!
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
paulbarden
Outstanding first plate, Pau! It has a very well-defined atmosphere about it, and the tonal values are tactile and thoughtfully rendered. You should be very pleased with this work. I look forward to seeing more!
Thanks a lot for your kind words. They mean a lot coming from you. I am really flattered.
2 Attachment(s)
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
In a friendly circle of collodist photographers, we recently discussed the durability of various collodions. It is a well-known fact that Lea 3 is in the first place in this area. I have been using this formula for decades, and it contains only cadmiate salts. Mathew Carey Lea (1823-1897) himself wrote that this formula has a long shelf life (up to several years), which he somehow did not specify more precisely. other literature, however, stated the value "within two years."
This topic started to interest me a long time ago, but only from 2017 I started to consciously postpone a smaller amount (250 ml) from each mixture for further "research". I now have the oldest collodion 4 years ago, mixed on February 5, 2017, which I successfully tested last time in the autumn of 2020. Last weekend I did a few ambrotypes, so it worked perfectly, without changing color, consistency and, of course, photographic properties. and I haven't said that my recipe is not the same as the original. instead of ether and ethanol I use the same amount of isopropyl.
I wonder when the breaking point will come. has anyone made you such attempts?
P.S .: I'm sorry for my bad English
Attachment 212765 Attachment 212766
Re: Collodion - Wet Plate Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jmpetzval
In a friendly circle of collodist photographers, we recently discussed the durability of various collodions. It is a well-known fact that Lea 3 is in the first place in this area. I have been using this formula for decades, and it contains only cadmiate salts. Mathew Carey Lea (1823-1897) himself wrote that this formula has a long shelf life (up to several years), which he somehow did not specify more precisely. other literature, however, stated the value "within two years."
This topic started to interest me a long time ago, but only from 2017 I started to consciously postpone a smaller amount (250 ml) from each mixture for further "research". I now have the oldest collodion 4 years ago, mixed on February 5, 2017, which I successfully tested last time in the autumn of 2020. Last weekend I did a few ambrotypes, so it worked perfectly, without changing color, consistency and, of course, photographic properties. and I haven't said that my recipe is not the same as the original. instead of ether and ethanol I use the same amount of isopropyl.
I wonder when the breaking point will come. has anyone made you such attempts?
I also have a bottle of Leah #3 that is now 2+ years old and still works well.
Another very long-lived recipe I would add to the list is UVP-X from Brian Cuyler. I have found that recipe incredibly stable and still perfectly usable after 2.5 years (and still going).