Picking up a De Vere 5108

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Originally Posted by John Brady

So my question is, would it be all right to leave assembled and lay down in the back of my truck trapped, or does it have to be assembled? Any advice will be appreciated.

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Although it may be technically possible, I certainly wouldn't recommend it. As a bare minimum, you'd want to take off the baseboard (4 wing nuts) and the Dichroic head. When removing the head, MAKE SURE it is locked down, both the lens and head stage. Then lift the head off the carrier, and while you hold the carrier with two hands, have someone else loosen the locks and slowly raise the carrier and the focusing stage to the top of the column. Then lock both in place again. Failure to do this could result in the head becoming a projectile.

Now that you have just the column, I would still separate it. It takes 8 bolts if my memory serves me right and this thread should explain in painful detail how to do it. The problem of trying to transport the chassis in one piece is the possibility of it getting bent in the process. This would not be good. Take tools, esp Allen and an open/box wrench set. I moved mine 1000 miles one way in a mini van with no issues. Good luck! L

What Peter said. I moved mine from Chicago to Kalamazoo, 150 miles, in the back of my Dodge caravan. Only removed the head and safely stored it by itself. Unless you have a cap on your pickup I would also remove the baseboard. But don't discount what Luis says. He's smarter than me in these matters and helped me a lot when I got mine!

Terry in Kalamazoo

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Originally Posted by Luis-F-S

When removing the head, MAKE SURE it is locked down, both the lens and head stage. Then lift the head off the carrier, and while you hold the carrier with two hands, have someone else loosen the locks and slowly raise the carrier and the focusing stage to the top of the column. Then lock both in place again. Failure to do this could result in the head becoming a projectile.

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This is the part that I keep hearing about that scares the crap out of me. I have never seen one of these in person so don't really grasp what is being explained here. I have ordered the manual, maybe that will help. I've read through this whole thread but still don't get it? I was definitely planing to remove the base board, that doesn't seam too scary, and any other small bits. Hopefully, I will get a better understanding of removing the head, which I'm sure is a good idea.

The heads are heavy. Usually...

The head is counterbalanced by either springs or lead weight.

I don't know this enlarger. Somebody needs to step up and 'splain it all.

I know Saltzman, Calumet, FOTAR and Elwood 10X10 enlargers but not the mighty DeVere.

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Originally Posted by John Brady

This is the part that I keep hearing about that scares the crap out of me. I have never seen one of these in person so don't really grasp what is being explained here. I have ordered the manual, maybe that will help. I've read through this whole thread but still don't get it? I was definitely planing to remove the base board, that doesn't seam too scary, and any other small bits. Hopefully, I will get a better understanding of removing the head, which I'm sure is a good idea.

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I can tell you that even the Devere 504 stages will blast off like a Falcon X rocket if they aren't secured when you remove the head, so imagine the tension on the 8x10 springs !

I believe Kevin at khb strongly suggested that one should use straps/ropes to secure everything when transporting Devere enlargers. Basically, DO NOT TRUST the adjustment locks by themselves. Straps are extremely secure, and it's not hyperbole to say that one could get seriously injured if one's head is in the path, esp if the neg and lens stages are set low.

Take it apart safely and there's nothing to worry about. I've moved two 504s and one 5108 so if I can do it....;)

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Originally Posted by John Brady

This is the part that I keep hearing about that scares the crap out of me. I have never seen one of these in person so don't really grasp what is being explained here. I have ordered the manual, maybe that will help. I've read through this whole thread but still don't get it? I was definitely planing to remove the base board, that doesn't seam too scary, and any other small bits. Hopefully, I will get a better understanding of removing the head, which I'm sure is a good idea.

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John, it's really not that scary. The 5108 head is counterbalanced by springs. The head is not that heavy, but if you remove it without locking the stages down, the spring will take over! Not that the springs are that strong, it just that they are now unbalanced. You can easily hold the head stage with one hand and raise it when someone else unlocks and then re-locks the stages. I suggest two hands to be safe, but my recollection was that it did not take that much effort. The first page of this thread pretty well explains how to separate the column in two. Also, don't forget to take the power supply stabilizer along with the other goodies. L

I moved my 5108 from Nashville to Peoria in one piece minus the baseboard. It rode very snuggly in the back of an older Yukon xl.

Congrats on your purchase. Buy more film.

Ken

Ok so you bought the one that was in Nashville. Did you get the complete darkroom also?

I took all that was in the sale bill except the exhaust fan. Huge easel and paper cutter and several large trays.

Ken

I have hauled my 5108 through three moves, not counting the original hop three states over to buy it.

I have one problem - I don't remember how the cables were strung through the head of the mast. There are four pulleys (wheels) - and two cables, two counterweights (I know where they go) and both ends of the cables are attached (one to the bench, the other to the upper frame on the head).

The pulleys are what are throwing me off.

I'm assuming they have to wrap around or (*?*) the two spindles that raise/lower the head & bench...

Does anyone have a De Vere 5108 that has these lead counter weights - and would be so kind as to photograph how the cabling is run through the mast head and down to the front of the mast?

Thanks for the help!

By the way... I first bought the enlarger in 2011. Am setting it up for the first time, three moves, and seven years later (I was waiting to live in a house that had enough head room to allow me to stand the darn thing UP!).

Not sure if this is what you're looking for, maybe it will help. If you're in the US/Canada, you may want to call KHB Photografix in Canada. They're extremely helpful. May also help if you post a photo of the enlarger so we know which flavor 5108 we're talking about. Good Luck. L

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So,I survived my trip from Florida to Detroit to pick up my 5108, I'm sure I way over paid for this set up but, it definitely needed a good home. it had been living in a garage for what looks like quite a while. I spent about a week cleaning the caked on dust and dirt off of her, arghh.
i have the manual, but still not completely confident about the operation. I'm assuming that i don't connect the color control unit since i will be using this for 8x10 b&w. i have the universal timer connected instead, it looks like a choice of one or the other. both seem to be functioning properly.

i have two mixing boxes that came with it. one has about a 4x5 frosted glass and the other one looks to be about 8x10, things were pretty dim until I put that in!

i have 3 lenses with the kit, a 300mm Rodagon 5.6, a 150mm componon 5.6 and an 80mm Rodagon 5.6. I'm assuming the 80 won't be useful for 8x10? The 300 is a beast but the glass looks kind of tired.
Also in the kit is a Heiland split grade system and a laser leveling tool, worked quite well.

Any thoughts on the split grade system?

I have everything leveled and clean, now time to round up more trays.

Congratulations on your De Vere! I have a 504.

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Originally Posted by No Ah

I have hauled my 5108 through three moves, not counting the original hop three states over to buy it.

I have one problem - I don't remember how the cables were strung through the head of the mast. There are four pulleys (wheels) - and two cables, two counterweights (I know where they go) and both ends of the cables are attached (one to the bench, the other to the upper frame on the head).

The pulleys are what are throwing me off.

I'm assuming they have to wrap around or (*?*) the two spindles that raise/lower the head & bench...

Does anyone have a De Vere 5108 that has these lead counter weights - and would be so kind as to photograph how the cabling is run through the mast head and down to the front of the mast?

Thanks for the help!

By the way... I first bought the enlarger in 2011. Am setting it up for the first time, three moves, and seven years later (I was waiting to live in a house that had enough head room to allow me to stand the darn thing UP!).

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Mine has chains that raise and lower the light box and the lens stage, they are accessible from the back if you remove the rectangular panels. There is a set on both sides. If this is what you are referring to, I took some crude cel phone shots before I moved mine, I heard it was a bitch if they fell off in transport. Fortunately mine didn’t fall off. PM me if this is what you need with your email address and I will send them to you. I hope it works out for you.

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Originally Posted by John Brady

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So,I survived my trip from Florida to Detroit to pick up my 5108, I'm sure I way over paid for this set up but, it definitely needed a good home. it had been living in a garage for what looks like quite a while. I spent about a week cleaning the caked on dust and dirt off of her, arghh.
i have the manual, but still not completely confident about the operation. I'm assuming that i don't connect the color control unit since i will be using this for 8x10 b&w. i have the universal timer connected instead, it looks like a choice of one or the other. both seem to be functioning properly.

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If you can find a 240 mm lens, it will cover 8x10 instead of the 300 and the head will be lower for the same magnification ratio, thus will give you more light, or you can enlarge more with it. The 80 is only good for Medium format and 35 mm, the 150 for 4x5 & the 300 for 8x10 & 5x7. You should be able to find a 240 for under $200 and could then sell the 300 if you don't use it. Try to find either a 180 or 210 (or both). I use the 180 for 5x7 and the 210 for 8x10 with small magnifications.

Have no experience with the Heiland split grade unit, have never used one. I don't usually spit grade print, so not my forte. Also, no experience with the color control box, though you can use the enlarger stricklty on a manual setting. L

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Originally Posted by Luis-F-S

If you can find a 240 mm lens, it will cover 8x10 instead of the 300 and the head will be lower for the same magnification ratio, thus will give you more light, or you can enlarge more with it. The 80 is only good for Medium format and 35 mm, the 150 for 4x5 & the 300 for 8x10 & 5x7. You should be able to find a 240 for under $200 and could then sell the 300 if you don't use it. Try to find either a 180 or 210 (or both). I use the 180 for 5x7 and the 210 for 8x10 with small magnifications.

Have no experience with the Heiland split grade unit, have never used one. I don't usually spit grade print, so not my forte. Also, no experience with the color control box, though you can use the enlarger stricklty on a manual setting. L

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Thanks Luis, I have already started my search for a nice quality 240, I played with the 300 and wasn’t thrilled.
I think the split grade unit is to help you establish a starting point for exposure, but not really sure?

What I did was to use Paul Butzi's method for getting constant exposures at various contrast settings using the color head. I recommend that. Also, if you find that you have low maximum contrast, getting new magenta filters might help. I got over a full contrast grade boost by changing mine.

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head will be lower for the same magnification ratio, thus will give you more light

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Violates thermodynamic laws of conservation of matter and energy. In fact, average baseboard lumens will likely be less with a short lens due to increased loss from cosine falloff at edges of field.

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Originally Posted by ic-racer

Violates thermodynamic laws of conservation of matter and energy. In fact, average baseboard lumens will likely be less with a short lens due to increased loss from cosine falloff at edges of field.

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If you use a shorter lens, the head will be closer to the baseboard, so the light spread will be less resulting in more light per square area for the same magnification. Do I have that wrong? I'll measure this evening on the enlarger.

Also if the ELH bulbs are too bright you can use ENH bulbs instead-250 vs 300 watts and 175 hours vs 35 hrs to failure. What I use.

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Originally Posted by Luis-F-S

If you use a shorter lens, the head will be closer to the baseboard, so the light spread will be less resulting in more light per square area for the same magnification. Do I have that wrong? I'll measure this evening on the enlarger.

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Only in a smoke filled room does the distance matter.

Since many of us spend more time taking pictures than printing, how about a negative exposure analogy.

You have your 4x5 camera and 90 mm lens. You frame your naturally illuminated subject and expose in your usual manner. You change to your 300mm lens , move back so you frame the subject in the same way and expose in your usual manner. Did you need to add extra exposure because you are now so far away from the subject?

When projection printing longer lenses have some advantages:
1) less cosine falloff at the corners = more even illumination
2) virtual enlargement of the mixing box area (diffusion enlarger only)
3) larger image circle, allowing larger magnification without going to a "High Magnification" specialty lens

Reviving an old thread, this will probably give you more information about taking apart a 5108 than the manual will. Just remember to lock down the head carrier tightly before removing the head. This is the right side knob on the photo. Posts 1-6 explain the process. Also, on post #5, in the photo shown below, once bolt #2 is loosened, tap the bolt to disengage it.

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Originally Posted by Luis-F-S

Ok, I took some photos of the enlarger at the lab I use. Just want to make sure we're all talking about the same bolts. Frankly the manual could be a little better illustrated.

To remove the upper chassis, I assume you remove the 7 bolts labeled #1 in these two photos. Removing the two bolts labeled #2 which link the base focusing handwheels to the upper chassis is the one I'm having issues. Does that bolt unscrew and come out the front? It's supposed to be a friction fit.

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The nut that tightens the gear wheels & chains, is that bold #3 in this photo? Do I need to slacken it to separate the two halfs and then re-tighten it? Bolt #4 just holds the timer tray and can be removed.

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I'm assuming that the handwheels don't have to be removed, just the head and baseboard. Many thanks! L

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To again revive an old thread it is important to tighten bolt #3 above to prevent the chains from coming off before moving the enlarger. Same applies to a 504 and 507 enlargers